Things you may find on a backcountry climb in Arizona

You might find a torquoise mine. All the big juicy specimens have been harvested but you could find rocks with bright trace minerals to take home. A great reminder of the adventure.

You may find inscriptions dating pretty far back from the miners that worked this claim.

If you looked really closely, you could find little creatures. Careful where you step and reach. Some of these creatures could be very dangerous if they get upset while others use camouflage as a form of defense.

If you dare venture into the mines, do so with caution and a good headlamp or two. Listen for creatures that dwell deep within the depths. Play the video below for an example of what you might see or hear. Thanks for reading the blog! Happy New Year!!

One of my fine climbing partners, Robert, joined me on a great climb called KR Goes To Vallhala. We completed what we think was the second or third ascent of this 5.8+, 700 foot climb up the northwest face of Pontatoc Ridge near famous Finger Rock Canyon.

Looking down pitch 2 about 1/4 the way up. Note vegetation that would clean up with traffic. But don't expect that anytime soon. No queues on this route, even though I thought it was great.
Robert climbing the upper portion of pitch 2.

Looking up the crux 5.9- exciting corner. It looks loose, but it's actually pretty solid.

Climb up past agave to roof and turn it on the right with little protection. I thought this was the mental crux, if not the physical one as well. The roof move was done 20' out from protection with potential of a ledgy fall if you blow it. I didn't blow it.

Robert on the summit ridge with a great view of Tucson. A quick one hour hike down and we were homeward bound, which is only a 10 minute drive. Gotta love 10 minute commutes to 700 foot 2nd ascents. Oh, did I mention the 1 hour bushwack to the base of the climb?

A little out of order but I wanted to show the vegetation. I see agave, shin daggers, and other fine desert flora. A great two bolt anchor thanks to the 1st ascentionsists Kevin Mayhew and company.

New Routes in Cochise Stronghold

Been spending as much time as possible putting up new rock climbing routes in Cochise Stronghold as well as 2nd ascents of recently climbed towers here. In keeping with local tradition, I've sworn that I would not publish said routes on the Internet. We believe that this sacred land is one of adventure and should so remain.

We bolt on lead, from the ground up, and only when absolutely necessary. No sport routes.

Hoping for one of these for Christmas :)

2011 Boston Marathon: ON!

The 2011 Boston Marathon opened for registration yesertday at 9 a.m. and closed at 5:30 p.m. Last year it took 2 months to fill, this year 8.5 hours!

Luckily I was on it and signed up early. After missing out last year, and having already arranged frequent flyer tickets and a hotel for 2011, I was going to leave nothing to chance.

Training starts in earnest November 11, about the same time I start tapering for the El Tour de Tucson bike race.

This blog will follow my journey to Boston.

The Colors of New Hamsphire

The rarely traversed route from "Toe Crack" to "Thin Air'.


Sugar Hill. Yes, we procured local boiled maple syrup.



Reminded me of home and made me homesick. I miss my family and friends in Wisconsin.



A geeky pic of a geeky guy:)



Many covered bridges adorn the scenic highways. They were covered to protect them from the elements.


This is our Chevy Aveo rental. A nice car.



A wonderful bridge and a wonderful woman.

Book of Solemnity: Cathedral Ledge

A short post on a great climb. I'll quote Ed Webster again, "A great line and an all-time New Hampshire classic, with a famous 1st pitch and a spacious belay ledge...Make increasingly difficult moves up the dihedral to the first roof, face climbing past three pitons around the roof's right edge to a large and comfortable belay ledge."

The pitch was first graded 5.9+, the traditional rating of the day. Today the rating is 5.10a.

Turner's Flake on Thin Air Face at Cathedral Ledge New Hampshire

Turner's Flake is a great 5.8 climb I led a couple days ago. It has a great history, which to me makes a climb that much richer. I'll quote from Ed Webster's guidebook, "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire".




"This committing, strenuous lead ascends the prominent, left-curving layback flake just to the left of the Standard Route. Carry several large Friends and Camalots for protection - but bear in mind that the crack was originally led in 1958 by John Turner and Dr. Michael Ward with no protection at all!"




They climbed this route after being thwarted on another classic climb, Recompense. Being too early for the bar in North Conway (our situation as well), they climbed this pitch. I brought the biggest gear I have it was still tough. My mantra for the entire climb was, "Channel your inner John Turner", over and over till the I reached the top. Fun stuff. I've posted these in a larger format for your viewing pleasure. Thanks to Kirsten for taking pics while belaying; never easy.

Old Pueblo 50 Mile Endurance Run

OK, I just signed up for the Old Pueblo 50 Mile Endurance Run again for March 2011. Billy will be joining me this year in a bid to qualify for the San Juan Solstice in Colorado. We encourage all of our friends to join us on this journey. We run together to learn more about ourselves. Sign-up here.


Learn more about the "Old Pueblo" experience by reading my post about 2009 race here.

Climbing Whitehorse Ledge in the White Mountains of New Hampshire

We spent a wonderful week in the "Whites", managing four days of fun climbing in great weather. Being our first time here, we wanted to focus on the historic classics which led us first to Whitehorse Ledge upon which we climbed the Standard Route. First free-climbed on July 2, 1932, it ascends the central face in 9 outstanding pitches. We enjoyed relative solitude on what is usually a crowded climb.


Approaching the first pitch, we hike up the slab to the "Launch Pad". A nice ledge with a good crack that takes protection marks the first pitch to the "Toilet Bowl" belay.


The first pitch is run-out 5.3 climbing to the white spot just above. This, the Toilet Bowl, has two bolts and is very comfortable for 2-3 people.


Kirsten is sitting at the "Pinch Belay", at the end of pitch 3, about 400 feet off the deck.


Still at the Pinch Belay, Kirsten can be seen far below. The views get better and better as we climb higher and higher. This shot is taken from "Lunch Ledge".


Lunch Ledge is pretty much the perfect belay. Whitehorse Lodge and sweeping granite lurk below. This was the crux 5.7 pitch, a slight variation from the 1932 route.



The Fall foliage was in full peak as seen from this view north.


Kirsten climbing the 2nd to last pitch.


And finally topping out over 1000 feet from the start! I think a lot of modern day rock climbers think of themselves as a brave bunch, but doing this route in stiff-soled hiking boots, with a 50 foot hemp rope and a hand full of pitons in 1932 with no idea if it "goes", is a whole different game. We, with our modern sticky rubber-ed slippers and protective gear that fits perfectly into every little crevice and hole, should pause and give salutation to these early pioneers. Doing so with a finely crafted local ale is highly recommended!

Deuces Wild Misc Photos

I drove through the White River Apache and San Carlos Apache Reservations on the way home. Starting at Fort Apache Historical Park I made my way south towards Black River. The way was tough for the Subaru and the going slow. I bottomed out many times and was quite scared I would have to backtrack. Turns out things went ok, except that I ran into a Ranger and got cited for recreating in the San Carlos Reservation without a permit. I was not recreating though, merely driving through on the way south to Tucson. Nevertheless, I was ticketed and now I have to contact the judge and discover my fate.

The country was beautiful and I couldn't help but imagine Apaches hidden behind the rocks and shrubs watching my every move. It turned out that, in fact, they were...

Deuces Wild Triathlon: Deuceman Half Iron Man Distance

June 5th, 2010 was the Deuceman Triathlon up in Show Low. Kirsten was back in Chicago for a reunion with Northwestern Medill Grads while I shot up to Apache Country in the White Mountains. At 6,200 feet, the place is a bit higher than Tucson's 2,300. No problem though as much of my training was done at 3000-7000 feet in the foothills of the Santa Catalina and Tucson Mountains.

I placed second in my age group and something like 16th overall...the final results are still pending.

For winning second in the male 35-39 age group I was awarded a nice trophy laser-cut from copper, and an invitation to Nationals at Myrtle Beach in South Carolina for a chance to compete for Team USA at the World Championships in 2011 in Vegas. The last time the World's were in the US was 1996...last year it was held in Perth.

It was my lucky day at the raffle too. I won a San Marco Italian Leather Bike Saddle, a full Orca Sonar wetsuit, a bike water bottle cage, a 290 page book on whole foods for athletes, and travel wallet :)

I think I may have just found my favorite race.


A shot of the tranistion area before the race. Notice the pine trees. Lovely area.

I keep minimal gear in my transition area. Just the basics. I've done away with socks as they take too much time to put on and I don't suffer from blisters. All my stuff is on the little white and orange Wildflower towel. My bike has the helmet and shades on it.

Next up we'll post about the Wildflower Triathlon we competed in back in May as well as some shots of climbing at Joshua Tree on the same trip. Thanks for looking!

Old Pueblo Results and Photos

Below are some photos of Adrian's 50-mile Old Pueblo run. Runners gathered long before the sun rose at Kentucky Camp, a historic mining site near Sonoita, Ariz. The Old Pueblo 50 course takes runners along dirt roads and trails, including the Arizona Trail, a national scenic trail that starts at the Mexican border and ends at the north rim of the Grand Canyon.

Here's how it ended. Check out the photos below to see how the rest of the day went. Or Click here for results.

Adrian scored this number on the last quarter mile of the race.

Adrian prepares for the race.

Runners start lining up.

Adrian reacts to the flash of the camera at 5 a.m.

Runners: On your mark.

Get set.

Go!

Adrian's off.

Whetstone mountains in the distance as the sun rises.

Adrian keeps moving.

Coming into mile 25. Now off to tackle Box Canyon.

Straight up.

Box Canyon is a killer. Lots of runners walk it.

Coming into mile 29, Box Canyon done.

Last stretch from Box Canyon.

Off to mile 33.

Coming out of Gardner's Canyon and into mile 40 aid station.

Mount Wrightson

Last segment

Approaching the finish line.

Crossing the finish line - under 10 hours.

One of the rewards for finishing.