July 02, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

dest: The Ahwahnee Hotel
miles: 0

Adrian:
Chalk up an 8-mile zero day for today.

The Ahwahnee Hotel is one of the grandest hotels in the National Park system. Some of these hotels include the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone (my favorite), and Many Glaciers in Glacier National Park. It was built in 1927 and has hosted guests such as JFK, Queen Elizabeth II, Lucille Ball, Herbert Hoover, Humphrey Bogart Laura Bush, Reagan, Churchill, Eisenhower, Robert Redford, who worked here before launching his acting career, and now Adrian and Kirsten. Our room faces Yosemite Falls and we can see Royal Arches. I can't think of a nicer place to stay as a splurge after finishing the John Muir Trail. This hotel was the brainchild of National Park Superintendant Mather, the one whom our most dangerous pass crossing was named after. It's funny that after fearing death on a pass named after him, we sit here sipping Tom Collins at the bar he created.

Our room wasn't ready when we checked in so we took a walk to Housekeeping Camp to do our laundry. We didn't WANT to do it, but my stuff was looking really hoboish, not to mention smelly like a can of DEET mosquito repellant. I wonder if that stuff works on bears, afterall, it does melt plastic, right?

While waiting for the washing machine, I took a swim in the Merced river, dodging the numerous rafters coming around the bend. I managed to get a bit sunburned in the process.

When we arrived back at the hotel the room was ready and it sure was nice. We're talking Ritz-Carlton level style, sheets and bathroom. On the way up to the room I made a dinner reservation at the hotel dining room. The dress code calls for buttoned shirt, check, slacks, check, and no athletic shoes, NOT check. I was going to have to wear my desert finest and do my best to hide the running shoes. Luckily, the shoes were overlooked and we had a great dinner.

What a nice day in Yosemite.

Kirsten:
Adrian failed to mention our climb up Half-Dome. You know, the highlight our entire day. Remember Adrian? I think the 1,000 sheet threadcount and featherbed has fogged his memory.

Last night we camped about 1.5 miles past the Half Dome junction, putting us within 200 yards of the rock stairs that mark the beginning. We woke up this morning before sunrise, loaded up one pack with water, snacks and a warmer layer and then hit the path to Half Dome.

From our tent it was tough to see where the trail goes - it just blends in perfectly with the massive granite block. Once you arrive to the base the trail magically reveals itslef like something out of Narnia. The steep trail traces its way up to the top, them descends to a saddle. From here hikers face the cables route, two steel cable connected to metal posts driven into the rock every 10 yards. A pile of gloves lay at the base of the solid granite route.

We reached the top - wow, my arms are weak - about a half an hour after sunrise. We shared the route and the summit, which is usually dangerously crammed with often inexperienced and grossly out of shape tourists, with one other couple. Hours later as we hiked down to Yosemite's valley floor we would pass hundreds of day hikers - many without packs and less than a liter of water.

Our descent down to the valley floor was epic with towering granite walls rising thousands of feet above me on either side while powerful waterfalls washed over their tippy tops. We had planned as a splurge to stay at the Yosemite Lodge, not a budget option compared with camping. The lodge is still considerably cheaper than the Ahwahnee. As we tried to check in the girl explained some mixup with the rooms, then a manager came over and said something about overbooking. Before we said anything she offered a $29 upgrade to the Ahwahnee. What a score!

The Ahwahnee is breathtaking inside with its art deco meets Western, rustic log cabin floors and furniture. It's the cabin-hotel without the kitsch and crap that makes me cringe. Architecturally it's functional and beautiful. Walking around the hotel I think of my friend Adrienne and know she would be photographing every nook and cranny of the joint. Enough for today, these sheets are calling my name.