June 22, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Above Florence Lake Trail
Miles: 23

Adrian: We did more miles today than I thought we would, given we had to tackle the longest pass crossing of the trip. Maybe it was because the second half of the day was mostly downhill or maybe it was just because we were motivated to keep on schedule for our planned rendezvous with Christian (and maybe Stephen) in Mammoth Lake on the 27th or 28th. Whatever the reason, here we are.

The morning started warm, around 35 degrees, when the alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. I finished off the last of my granola and powdered milk (I think Kirsten still has another serving left) and we hit the trail around 6:18 a.m. running into and meeting for the first time thru-hiker Jarrow. He hiked faster than us but started 10 days earlier and has taken around 16 zero days. We would end up leap-frogging with him for the next couple days before he took the lead for good a day later. Maybe we'll see him in VVR on the 24th.

The long ascent was made longer due to the amount of snow that is still lingering here. Hiking across snow means wet feet and slow going. Creeping our way up the pass we passed a great camping area I dubbed Fairy Meadows due to the bright green grass, small bonsai pines and beautiful pink flowers that brightened the otherwise white and gray surroundings caused by snow and granite rocks. A few people were camped here.

We made the same mistake in identifying Helen Lake as countless other hikers have done before us, thinking it was earlier than it actually is. The trail was completely buried in snow and we followed footsteps in the snow as it led us higher and higher. Huge gray peaks soared above us as we kick-stepped our way up. A party of 3 was ahead of us and another twosome behind. Otherwise we had the pass to ourselves.


The climb continued upward past a false summit until we suddenly saw the stone hut indicating our arrival at the pass. We were elated! The hut is an interesting structure built in memory of John Muir and for hikers caught on top on the pass in inclement weather. The best I can describe it is that it looks like an igloo with overlapping stone construction from bottom to top and ever inward resulting in a type of dome. Inside was a no longer used fireplace and a stone bench around the perimeter. I climbed the outside and Kirsten took a picture of me on top.

The view north from the top was awe-inspiring and daunting at the same time. Peaks were all around us as was lots of snow. We stayed there for about 30 minutes eating a snack and savoring the experience. Unfortunately we had to leave in order to walk the snow before too late in the day and the resulting postholing hell that would incur if we didn't. The four thousand foot descent took time and did include lots of postholing. The most annoying of which took place next to Wanda Lake (named after one of John Muir's daughters), where we would break through into several inches of ice, slush and water.



Today also included a fording of Evolution Creek, one that enjoys a fierce reputation on the PCT. Lucky for us it was only about 3 feet deep and not too fast. We took a long break on the other side to clean up and dry some shoes, socks and other clothing.

The rest of the day included finishing the long descent and finding a campsite that proved harder and dryer than we thought. Nonetheless, we found one just around dark, set-up the tent and cooked in the dark.

All in all, a great day.

Kirsten: Wow, Adrian is feeling chatty today.
My favorite part of the day was the first part of the hike from the campsite up to Helen Lake. The pass was certainly a highlight. But it was this morning that continually took my breath away. The sometimes rocky path wound its way up through squishy meadows littered with red heather, Indian paintbrush, blue forget-me-nots, and these orchid-Columbine flowers that I don't know the name of. By this point, we were well above 10,000 feet so the gnarled and wind sculpted trees located up here are hundreds of years old. Amongst all of these alternating meadows, granite steppes and wildflowers were small creeklets and the occasional river crossing. I half expected a unicorn to cross my path.

The Sierras have definitely surpassed my expectations.