Destination: Mammoth Lakes
Miles: 0
Adrian:
This morning at 7:45 a.m. we experienced an earthquake that scored 4.3 on the Richter Scale. The epicenter was at Tom's Place, a few miles north of Mammoth. It was our second earthquake as a couple :)
Chris came by at 8 a.m. and we went back to his house to have some espresso and organize some climbing gear for our day in Tuolumne Meadows located within Yosemite National Park. Finally set to go, we hit Schat's Bakery on the way out for pastries. I highly recommend the Pull Away Bread.
Our climb for the day would be Crying Time Again, 5.10R, on Lembert Dome. This climb is a classic for sure: 6 pitches long up the steep northwest wall of Lembert. The climb was run out enough to be spicy, but safe enough not to freak you out. It climbs solid golden granite with knobs and the occasional edge. I loved it.
That night we stayed with Julie and Chris who cooked us a huge chicken and steak dinner with great appetizers.
I think this was the best zero day yet!
Kirsten:
While Adrian was off climbing I focused on other things. Namely, eating foods I can't have in the backcountry.
I started out at Looney Bean, a local coffee shop. I had a latte and a toasted bagel while I used the Internet there. Later I went to Base Camp Cafe for lunch and had a huge salad with fried chicken pieces and about 10 iced tea/lemonades. Finally, I hit Stelar Brew, another local coffee shop, for a blackberry-peach smoothie and two cookies. Around that time Julie picked me up and we went back to their house.
Those two are wonderful hosts and after a tasty dinner we jumped in their Jacuzzi for a few minutes.
Oh, I almost forgot ... at Stellar Brew Uncle Lorenzo walked in. His leg is getting better and once he rests in Mammoth a bit more, he'll be back on the trail.
Friday, July 4, 2008
June 27, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Mammoth Lakes
Miles: 3
Adrian:
We arrived Red's Meadow, a resort close to Devil's Postpile National Monument, to catch the bus to Mammoth. We got there are 8:30 a.m. and the bus showed up 15 minutes later.... nice! Overdose was there and so was Ninja, and we got caught up with them.
It costs $7 each to get to the ski area and from there a bus takes you to the village for free. It's a wonderful bus system and runs regularly.
Mammoth is changing and the whole village has been redone with the arrival of the new village gondola. It's nice though!
The Motel 6 is our home and we have our bounce box here as well. We missed shipping it out on time but Christian will ship it on Monday. Thanks Chris!
Kirsten:
Another milestone has been reached with our arrival today in Mammoth Lakes. The town is picturesque and has everything you could want - namely good restaurants, coffee shops and a grocery store to buy more grub. Adrian's college roommate, Christian, lives here with his wife and we hope to connect with them tonight for dinner.
For now, we're busy running errands, stuffing our faces and cleaning up our packs. I've been in town for about four hours and have already had a huge amount of jalapeño bread from the famous Schat's bakery, a BLT and avocado sandwich with fries and an endless supply of iced tea-lemonades - my favorite drink - at the Good Life Cafe. As usual I have made myself ill by eating too much.
Miles: 3
Adrian:
We arrived Red's Meadow, a resort close to Devil's Postpile National Monument, to catch the bus to Mammoth. We got there are 8:30 a.m. and the bus showed up 15 minutes later.... nice! Overdose was there and so was Ninja, and we got caught up with them.
It costs $7 each to get to the ski area and from there a bus takes you to the village for free. It's a wonderful bus system and runs regularly.
Mammoth is changing and the whole village has been redone with the arrival of the new village gondola. It's nice though!
The Motel 6 is our home and we have our bounce box here as well. We missed shipping it out on time but Christian will ship it on Monday. Thanks Chris!
Kirsten:
Another milestone has been reached with our arrival today in Mammoth Lakes. The town is picturesque and has everything you could want - namely good restaurants, coffee shops and a grocery store to buy more grub. Adrian's college roommate, Christian, lives here with his wife and we hope to connect with them tonight for dinner.
For now, we're busy running errands, stuffing our faces and cleaning up our packs. I've been in town for about four hours and have already had a huge amount of jalapeño bread from the famous Schat's bakery, a BLT and avocado sandwich with fries and an endless supply of iced tea-lemonades - my favorite drink - at the Good Life Cafe. As usual I have made myself ill by eating too much.
June 26, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Red Cones
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We camped within 4 miles of Mammoth Lakes. The mosquitoes were bad but our campfire kept them at bay. For dinner it was freeze dried Polynesian chicken from Mountain House. We usually don't eat that stuff due to cost and it's lack of many calories, but it is tasty.
I'm looking forward to visiting Mammoth again and seeing our friends Christian and Julie.
Kirsten:
Today was much harder than I anticipated. We summited the pass easily and then promptly lost our way for about 15 minutes on the descent.
As annoying as it is to lose the trail - this time because of the snow - there is no better feeling than we you finally find it again. Success!
There were a number of ups and downs on a rocky trail today and by the time we reached our campsite our feet were tenderized. The mosquitoes were relentless so we took advantage of the fire ring. Within a few minutes, we had our first campfire of the whole trip. We've avoided building campfires up until now because we are paranoid of wildfire. It was such a treat to have one tonight.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We camped within 4 miles of Mammoth Lakes. The mosquitoes were bad but our campfire kept them at bay. For dinner it was freeze dried Polynesian chicken from Mountain House. We usually don't eat that stuff due to cost and it's lack of many calories, but it is tasty.
I'm looking forward to visiting Mammoth again and seeing our friends Christian and Julie.
Kirsten:
Today was much harder than I anticipated. We summited the pass easily and then promptly lost our way for about 15 minutes on the descent.
As annoying as it is to lose the trail - this time because of the snow - there is no better feeling than we you finally find it again. Success!
There were a number of ups and downs on a rocky trail today and by the time we reached our campsite our feet were tenderized. The mosquitoes were relentless so we took advantage of the fire ring. Within a few minutes, we had our first campfire of the whole trip. We've avoided building campfires up until now because we are paranoid of wildfire. It was such a treat to have one tonight.
June 25, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Silver Pass Lake
Miles: 6
Adrian:
Our plan was to take the 4 p.m. ferry back to the trail so we could log some time off our feet. Also, it would allow us just enough time to hike to and camp at the base of Silver Pass at 10,900 ft. That way we'd be in position to do the pass in the morning and avoid postholing on the descent.
The ferry ride back was quiet. All of the hikers heading back to the trail seemed to have a kind of lost look on their faces, in complete contrast to the faces of the hikers lining up to board as we disembarked. It's never easy leaving a town to go back to the trail, but this time it just stung a bit harder.
It was 1.4 miles from the ferry drop-off back to the PCT. We hiked a steep 6 miles up to the base of Silver Pass and it felt like I had lead in my shoes, but no matter, we made it. The lake we are camped at is still about half frozen yet I hear frogs singing. They must hibernate under 20 feet of snow.
Kirsten:
Amongst all of the streams, damp, spongy meadow and frozen lake we've found a perfect dry campsite tucked in between some old twisted trees. What a fun little spot.
In a day we'll be in Mammoth Lakes, a town I've always wanted to visit. The last two days there has been a lot of haze from a number of fires in Northern California. The scenery has sadly suffered from this and I've limited my typically rampant photo taking until the skies clear.
Miles: 6
Adrian:
Our plan was to take the 4 p.m. ferry back to the trail so we could log some time off our feet. Also, it would allow us just enough time to hike to and camp at the base of Silver Pass at 10,900 ft. That way we'd be in position to do the pass in the morning and avoid postholing on the descent.
The ferry ride back was quiet. All of the hikers heading back to the trail seemed to have a kind of lost look on their faces, in complete contrast to the faces of the hikers lining up to board as we disembarked. It's never easy leaving a town to go back to the trail, but this time it just stung a bit harder.
It was 1.4 miles from the ferry drop-off back to the PCT. We hiked a steep 6 miles up to the base of Silver Pass and it felt like I had lead in my shoes, but no matter, we made it. The lake we are camped at is still about half frozen yet I hear frogs singing. They must hibernate under 20 feet of snow.
Kirsten:
Amongst all of the streams, damp, spongy meadow and frozen lake we've found a perfect dry campsite tucked in between some old twisted trees. What a fun little spot.
In a day we'll be in Mammoth Lakes, a town I've always wanted to visit. The last two days there has been a lot of haze from a number of fires in Northern California. The scenery has sadly suffered from this and I've limited my typically rampant photo taking until the skies clear.
June 24, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Vermilion Valley Resort
Miles: 5
Adrian:
We woke up at 5:30 a.m. in order to make the early boat to the resort. The mosquitoes were outside the tent waiting for the ambush.
Descending from Bear Ridge took time and patience as we hiked down a rocky tread switching back and forth a total of 54 times according to our count. The view was limited due to a thick conifer mixed with aspen forest.
When you arrive at Lake Edison there is a twice-daily ferry that takes you to Vermilion Valley Resort, a fishing destination on the east side of the Sierra. The ferry is nothing more than a stripped down pontoon but it does get you to a restaurant, motel and store.
We decided to stay one night and instead of bunk beds in the perma-tents (canvas tents framed with wood), we upgraded to the 30-foot trailer. We are becoming trailer dwellers on this trip it seems. No worries, we had privacy and our own private bath.
The resort was fun but very expensive. We spent a small fortune so there was motivation to move on the next day. Regardless of cost, after 11 days of mountain hiking, we were sure glad to have an outpost like this here. Thanks Jim!!
Our unsupported, no resupply, 11 day trip over 6 passes, through numerous canyons, up to the highest point in the lower 48 States and many other adventures was a complete success. It was magical to not see a road, house, or any other human "improvement" in those days. We had some dangerous times, but both of us kept a cool head and completed the task at hand.
I'm a bit melancholy this section is over. We still have many mountains to go, don't get me wrong, but this has been a grand experience. It'll be hard to beat.
But hey, we are still 400 miles until half way, so stay tuned, there's more to come!
Kirsten:
VVR! Six months ago I would have never predicted my arrival at VVR, more than 800 miles on the PCT. I have been so focused on surviving and completing the desert I never really spent much time thinking about the path north of Kennedy Meadows. And yet here we are.
I am elated at our progress. I'm even more excited that we're not merely trying to "get through" the trail. We're enjoying it mosquitoes and all.
We've reunited with the Duece, Lil Wrangler and Snow Kittens. We also discovered a message waiting for us at VVR from Doc, Sven and Troy - all Wisconites. We hope to catch them after the Sierras. If not, we at least have their contact information now.
Miles: 5
Adrian:
We woke up at 5:30 a.m. in order to make the early boat to the resort. The mosquitoes were outside the tent waiting for the ambush.
Descending from Bear Ridge took time and patience as we hiked down a rocky tread switching back and forth a total of 54 times according to our count. The view was limited due to a thick conifer mixed with aspen forest.
When you arrive at Lake Edison there is a twice-daily ferry that takes you to Vermilion Valley Resort, a fishing destination on the east side of the Sierra. The ferry is nothing more than a stripped down pontoon but it does get you to a restaurant, motel and store.
We decided to stay one night and instead of bunk beds in the perma-tents (canvas tents framed with wood), we upgraded to the 30-foot trailer. We are becoming trailer dwellers on this trip it seems. No worries, we had privacy and our own private bath.
The resort was fun but very expensive. We spent a small fortune so there was motivation to move on the next day. Regardless of cost, after 11 days of mountain hiking, we were sure glad to have an outpost like this here. Thanks Jim!!
Our unsupported, no resupply, 11 day trip over 6 passes, through numerous canyons, up to the highest point in the lower 48 States and many other adventures was a complete success. It was magical to not see a road, house, or any other human "improvement" in those days. We had some dangerous times, but both of us kept a cool head and completed the task at hand.
I'm a bit melancholy this section is over. We still have many mountains to go, don't get me wrong, but this has been a grand experience. It'll be hard to beat.
But hey, we are still 400 miles until half way, so stay tuned, there's more to come!
Kirsten:
VVR! Six months ago I would have never predicted my arrival at VVR, more than 800 miles on the PCT. I have been so focused on surviving and completing the desert I never really spent much time thinking about the path north of Kennedy Meadows. And yet here we are.
I am elated at our progress. I'm even more excited that we're not merely trying to "get through" the trail. We're enjoying it mosquitoes and all.
We've reunited with the Duece, Lil Wrangler and Snow Kittens. We also discovered a message waiting for us at VVR from Doc, Sven and Troy - all Wisconites. We hope to catch them after the Sierras. If not, we at least have their contact information now.
June 23, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: 4 Miles Above VVR Landing
Miles: 16
Adrian:
The unexpected surprise of cell phone service at our evening campsite was quite welcome. I called my Mom because it had been over two weeks since we last spoke. It was nice to hear her voice and get a short update on things back home. The battery on the phone was low so we had to cut it short. I miss my family back home and think a lot about them on the trail. It's pretty raw on the trail and not uncommon to openly show emotions like crying or laughing or whatever.
Kirsten:
I have discovered Adrian's kryptonite. It's the mosquito. And it's quickly becoming mine as well.
The Sierras are filled with water, which I love. The plentiful water supply also means an abundance of mosquitoes. Sometimes they are so thick that it's impossible to walk fast enough to avoid their bites. And forget about stopping. If we do stop the break usually evolves quickly into a frenzied swatting session, hasty pack up of our stuff and before five minutes has passed we're back on the road. Sometimes during these breaks or when we set up camp for the night the mosquitoes swarm Adrian. This is when my normally happy and mellow husband becomes a harried, impatient freakshow. This was sort of funny to watch until recently when the mosquitoes discovered me. Now they surround me as much if not more than Adrian. Damn karma.
Miles: 16
Adrian:
The unexpected surprise of cell phone service at our evening campsite was quite welcome. I called my Mom because it had been over two weeks since we last spoke. It was nice to hear her voice and get a short update on things back home. The battery on the phone was low so we had to cut it short. I miss my family back home and think a lot about them on the trail. It's pretty raw on the trail and not uncommon to openly show emotions like crying or laughing or whatever.
Kirsten:
I have discovered Adrian's kryptonite. It's the mosquito. And it's quickly becoming mine as well.
The Sierras are filled with water, which I love. The plentiful water supply also means an abundance of mosquitoes. Sometimes they are so thick that it's impossible to walk fast enough to avoid their bites. And forget about stopping. If we do stop the break usually evolves quickly into a frenzied swatting session, hasty pack up of our stuff and before five minutes has passed we're back on the road. Sometimes during these breaks or when we set up camp for the night the mosquitoes swarm Adrian. This is when my normally happy and mellow husband becomes a harried, impatient freakshow. This was sort of funny to watch until recently when the mosquitoes discovered me. Now they surround me as much if not more than Adrian. Damn karma.
June 22, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Above Florence Lake Trail
Miles: 23
Adrian: We did more miles today than I thought we would, given we had to tackle the longest pass crossing of the trip. Maybe it was because the second half of the day was mostly downhill or maybe it was just because we were motivated to keep on schedule for our planned rendezvous with Christian (and maybe Stephen) in Mammoth Lake on the 27th or 28th. Whatever the reason, here we are.
The morning started warm, around 35 degrees, when the alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. I finished off the last of my granola and powdered milk (I think Kirsten still has another serving left) and we hit the trail around 6:18 a.m. running into and meeting for the first time thru-hiker Jarrow. He hiked faster than us but started 10 days earlier and has taken around 16 zero days. We would end up leap-frogging with him for the next couple days before he took the lead for good a day later. Maybe we'll see him in VVR on the 24th.
The long ascent was made longer due to the amount of snow that is still lingering here. Hiking across snow means wet feet and slow going. Creeping our way up the pass we passed a great camping area I dubbed Fairy Meadows due to the bright green grass, small bonsai pines and beautiful pink flowers that brightened the otherwise white and gray surroundings caused by snow and granite rocks. A few people were camped here.
We made the same mistake in identifying Helen Lake as countless other hikers have done before us, thinking it was earlier than it actually is. The trail was completely buried in snow and we followed footsteps in the snow as it led us higher and higher. Huge gray peaks soared above us as we kick-stepped our way up. A party of 3 was ahead of us and another twosome behind. Otherwise we had the pass to ourselves.
The climb continued upward past a false summit until we suddenly saw the stone hut indicating our arrival at the pass. We were elated! The hut is an interesting structure built in memory of John Muir and for hikers caught on top on the pass in inclement weather. The best I can describe it is that it looks like an igloo with overlapping stone construction from bottom to top and ever inward resulting in a type of dome. Inside was a no longer used fireplace and a stone bench around the perimeter. I climbed the outside and Kirsten took a picture of me on top.
The view north from the top was awe-inspiring and daunting at the same time. Peaks were all around us as was lots of snow. We stayed there for about 30 minutes eating a snack and savoring the experience. Unfortunately we had to leave in order to walk the snow before too late in the day and the resulting postholing hell that would incur if we didn't. The four thousand foot descent took time and did include lots of postholing. The most annoying of which took place next to Wanda Lake (named after one of John Muir's daughters), where we would break through into several inches of ice, slush and water.
Today also included a fording of Evolution Creek, one that enjoys a fierce reputation on the PCT. Lucky for us it was only about 3 feet deep and not too fast. We took a long break on the other side to clean up and dry some shoes, socks and other clothing.
The rest of the day included finishing the long descent and finding a campsite that proved harder and dryer than we thought. Nonetheless, we found one just around dark, set-up the tent and cooked in the dark.
All in all, a great day.
Kirsten: Wow, Adrian is feeling chatty today.
My favorite part of the day was the first part of the hike from the campsite up to Helen Lake. The pass was certainly a highlight. But it was this morning that continually took my breath away. The sometimes rocky path wound its way up through squishy meadows littered with red heather, Indian paintbrush, blue forget-me-nots, and these orchid-Columbine flowers that I don't know the name of. By this point, we were well above 10,000 feet so the gnarled and wind sculpted trees located up here are hundreds of years old. Amongst all of these alternating meadows, granite steppes and wildflowers were small creeklets and the occasional river crossing. I half expected a unicorn to cross my path.
The Sierras have definitely surpassed my expectations.
Miles: 23
Adrian: We did more miles today than I thought we would, given we had to tackle the longest pass crossing of the trip. Maybe it was because the second half of the day was mostly downhill or maybe it was just because we were motivated to keep on schedule for our planned rendezvous with Christian (and maybe Stephen) in Mammoth Lake on the 27th or 28th. Whatever the reason, here we are.The morning started warm, around 35 degrees, when the alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. I finished off the last of my granola and powdered milk (I think Kirsten still has another serving left) and we hit the trail around 6:18 a.m. running into and meeting for the first time thru-hiker Jarrow. He hiked faster than us but started 10 days earlier and has taken around 16 zero days. We would end up leap-frogging with him for the next couple days before he took the lead for good a day later. Maybe we'll see him in VVR on the 24th.
The long ascent was made longer due to the amount of snow that is still lingering here. Hiking across snow means wet feet and slow going. Creeping our way up the pass we passed a great camping area I dubbed Fairy Meadows due to the bright green grass, small bonsai pines and beautiful pink flowers that brightened the otherwise white and gray surroundings caused by snow and granite rocks. A few people were camped here.
We made the same mistake in identifying Helen Lake as countless other hikers have done before us, thinking it was earlier than it actually is. The trail was completely buried in snow and we followed footsteps in the snow as it led us higher and higher. Huge gray peaks soared above us as we kick-stepped our way up. A party of 3 was ahead of us and another twosome behind. Otherwise we had the pass to ourselves.
The climb continued upward past a false summit until we suddenly saw the stone hut indicating our arrival at the pass. We were elated! The hut is an interesting structure built in memory of John Muir and for hikers caught on top on the pass in inclement weather. The best I can describe it is that it looks like an igloo with overlapping stone construction from bottom to top and ever inward resulting in a type of dome. Inside was a no longer used fireplace and a stone bench around the perimeter. I climbed the outside and Kirsten took a picture of me on top.
The view north from the top was awe-inspiring and daunting at the same time. Peaks were all around us as was lots of snow. We stayed there for about 30 minutes eating a snack and savoring the experience. Unfortunately we had to leave in order to walk the snow before too late in the day and the resulting postholing hell that would incur if we didn't. The four thousand foot descent took time and did include lots of postholing. The most annoying of which took place next to Wanda Lake (named after one of John Muir's daughters), where we would break through into several inches of ice, slush and water.
Today also included a fording of Evolution Creek, one that enjoys a fierce reputation on the PCT. Lucky for us it was only about 3 feet deep and not too fast. We took a long break on the other side to clean up and dry some shoes, socks and other clothing.The rest of the day included finishing the long descent and finding a campsite that proved harder and dryer than we thought. Nonetheless, we found one just around dark, set-up the tent and cooked in the dark.
All in all, a great day.
Kirsten: Wow, Adrian is feeling chatty today.
My favorite part of the day was the first part of the hike from the campsite up to Helen Lake. The pass was certainly a highlight. But it was this morning that continually took my breath away. The sometimes rocky path wound its way up through squishy meadows littered with red heather, Indian paintbrush, blue forget-me-nots, and these orchid-Columbine flowers that I don't know the name of. By this point, we were well above 10,000 feet so the gnarled and wind sculpted trees located up here are hundreds of years old. Amongst all of these alternating meadows, granite steppes and wildflowers were small creeklets and the occasional river crossing. I half expected a unicorn to cross my path.
The Sierras have definitely surpassed my expectations.
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