Nahuel Huapi: the final post

We dedicated a lot of posts to Nahuel Huapi, I know. But there was a lot to it. And at least for me, it was the highlight of my trip and one of the more difficult treks I've ever done.

After finishing day three, we arrived at Refugio Italia/Segre/Laguna Negra. All of the huts or refugios are pretty awesome. For 30 pesos we could sleep in the refugio and use all of their pots, pans etc. Some huts such as Refugio Italia had a little extra to offer - homebrewed beer.


Day four ended up being much more difficult than I thought. On day four, we made our way around Laguna Negra, up the scree that you can see in the background of the first photo and then up the ridge to the right. After traversing, we reached the top only to see what was in store for us: a steep descent, a valley and then a huge scree field straight up. In the photo below you can see our intended path - down and straight up the mountains on the other side.

After reaching the top of this seemingly impossible section we were rewarded with some amazing views.


An hour or two from the top we reached Refugio Lopez. We intended on cowboy camping that night, but the weather had other plans. Around midnight we found ourselves shoving our sleeping bags in our packs and running into the hut.

On day five, we had a quick and muddy descent to the road where we caught a bus back to Bariloche.

Almost at the End of Day 3

The beauty of these mountains is the first thing that hits you. It is similar to the Swiss Alps, but not spoiled by all the lifts, gondolas and people.

The second thing that hits you is the difficulty of the trails. There are few climbing aids such as fixed ropes or handrails as found in Torres Del Paine and Europe.

Route-finding skills are an assest too. On several occasions we had to pull out the map AND compass....unbelieveable I know!!! :)

Here´s a small collection to round out day 3, the hardest day of the 5-day route.

Your Typical Day

This is a half day of hiking in these parts. Down into the valley below and back up the switch backs.
Can you say, "Buns of steel"?

The first photo shows our intended path down steep scree, across several small snow fields, across a swampy grass area and then finally up 36 switchbacks (yup we counted them) until we reached Refugio Italia, also known as Laguna Negra or Segre.

If you look closely you can see the swtichbacks on the grassy steep section in the background of the photo.

Here is a photo of me sliding down a nicely pitched snow field. This was one of the more enjoyable ways down. Other sections of our descent offered a mix of downclimbing small waterfalls and gullies as well as tromping through grassy swampland.

Yours Truly Above Navidad

After finally completing the scree traverse on day three, we stopped to enjoy the new views.

The lake below is Lago Navidad. The scree trail can be seen (faintly) behind us. The trail runs from me (in the picture) off to the right.

This photo is taken on a small col, which offers the first views of Monte Tronador, a volcano that would dominate the view for large parts of day three and four.

The Traverse above Lago Navidad

As we made our way across the trail on day three, we encountered a number of scree sections, which are more annoying than difficult.

The loose choss was an invitation for a sprained ankle and it was on this section that Adrian and I wished we had a boot with a bit more support.

Except for these scree areas we were happy we stuck with our trailrunners.

Did I mention the Alaskans?

Later on the morning of day three, our group was joined by two guys from Alaska.

The Alaskans from Anchorage were a very capable team.

We enjoyed their company, even if it was brief.

A first time for everything

On day three Team Norway said they were a bit nervous of the climbing section.

But it was hard to tell. They quickly adjusted to climbing up the exposed areas (with heavy packs on) and had no problems.

The trail was relatively easy to follow at this point, in large part because a few wands or sticks that marked the trail were still standing from an adventure race that was held on the traverse earlier this season.

Steep Climbing on Day Three

We woke up on day three at Refugio San Martin/Jakob to clear bluebird skies and were soon informed by the family that operates the refugio we would be allowed to continue the traverse after all.

A number of other trekkers at the refugio were attempting the traverse and we decided to stick together that day. We started out with Team Norway, the American teachers and later the two Alaskans.

The day began with some steep climbing that took us above Laguna Tempranos, pictured below.

After reaching the first small saddle we proceeded to the left and over to another bench or col. Then we hiked across loose scree to the left again and then climbed up to another col.

This section was where routefinding was difficult and I finally realized why the Club Andino guys are nervous about tourists attempting this.

We traveled up a small ridge and then onto a giant flat section that Adrian described as a football field.

Climbing above Laguna Tempranos

Team USA-Austria-Norway

We were lucky to meet up with such great people on the traverse. We were the only ones doing the traverse during these few days so by the time day three started we had all met. By the end of day four, we were good friends.

Among the group of traverse trekkers was Team Norway - two Norweigan girls and an Austrian guy, who lives in Norway. These three actually met only days before and decided to do the traverse together.

Team shot with Lago San Martin in the background.
Shortly before crux climbing section begins.

Then there was the U.S. couple, who are
teaching in Buenos Aires and escaped
the bustle of the big city for a few days
to take on the traverse.

Nahuel Huapi - the traverse!

Before setting off for the Nahuel Huapi Traverse, a five-day trek that takes you over a number of mountain passes in the Nahuel Huapi National Park, we stopped by the Andino Bariloche Club. The mountain club sells maps and offers information about trekking in the area.

Surprisingly, they initially were apprehensive to even discuss or describe the traverse trek. We managed to convince them (pretty quickly) that we had the experience. Their biggest concern is on day three when trekkers travel from Refugio Jakob/San Martin to Refugio Laguna Negra. Routefinding can be difficult and there is some climbing, as shown in the photo below. That's me (Kirsten) in front.

Climbing out of Refugio San Martin

We took a bus - the Number 10, which runs every hour on the 15s (so 11:15 a.m.) - to Villa Catedral, a ski resort village about 20 km from Bariloche. The 45-minute bus ride cost 3.50 pesos a person.

Then it was off to Refugio Frey, which we reached in under four hours. The refugios in the park are well equipped and offer guests access to just about everything. For 30 pesos a person you can stay in the hut as well as use their kitchen including pots, pans, gas and spices. It is free to camp and a number of people just paid the 8 peso fee to use the kitchen and then pitched tents in the surrounding area.

Refugio Frey had a great vibe and the staff was laid back. They also had a crazy cat named Tortas that acted more like a dog. The other huge plus about Frey is the climbing! This is definitely the spot for climbers to bag a bunch of multi-pitch climbs within view of the refugio.

On day two we would leave Frey in some cloudy and chilly conditions. Within an hour of leaving the refugio we ascended a steep section and then reached Conchas de Fotball, a rocky area that is supposed to look like a football stadium. We finally we reached the top of the saddle and slowly made our way down the steep and slippery other side. By the time we reached the saddle it was windy and misting.

Within an hour or two, as we entered into a lenga forest it was raining steadily.

Nahuel Huapi and beyond

We're back in Argentina and ready for another trek.

Today we're off to a tough five-day traverse of Nahuel Huapi pronounced Nah-well-wah-pee. We stay at little refugios along the way, which makes our packs a lot lighter.

The trail is much steeper and there is at least one day where it can be challenging to follow. We'll be back in Bariloche soon enough with plenty of photos of our adventure.

Cheers

Meanwhile back at the ranch

After dominating what nature had to offer, it was time to take a little time off.

We took a bus to Punta Arenas, the capital of the province, and started planning our next move.

Punta Arenas is a nice, bustling town located on the shores of the Straits of Magellan and the area where hundreds of prospectors sailed as they made there way to California during the gold rush, which Adrian points out every time we pass. This he says is his favorite historical period. Nerd.

It turns out the family of Christian Santelices, the head guide on Adrian's expedition up Aconcagua, has an estancia outside of Punta Arenas.

Christian and his wife and daughter have been living and working at the estancia and hosteria the past couple of months.
So we rented a pickup truck and drove about two hours to the lovely Posada Estancia Rio Verde. We had intended on only staying one night, but had so much fun and food we stayed another night.

Christian's father, Sergio, took Adrian along as he dropped some of the arrieros (mule driver, but also used when describing ranch hands in charge of other types of herds) off at different locations on the ranch. The arrieros work one-week shifts and are placed in charge of a specific area where they check on the herd and repair fences among other things.

We also went on a horseback ride and participated (sort of) in driving the sheep into a corral at the ranch.
To clarify, when I say participated I really mean we sat on our horses as hundreds of sheep came running towards us and at the last moment these awesome herding dogs did their job and pushed the sheep through the ranch entrance. Please don't freak out on the photo below. The dogs are trained not to actually bite the sheep.


The estancia also has awesome breakfast, lunch and dinner and plenty of freshly made Pisco Sours (the national drink).

So those jeans I bought in Buenos Aires - that finally fit after my nine-day trek - are now tight again.

Oh, and did I mention the puppies? The one I'm holding in this photo is named canela or cinnamon.

You know you're trekking in Patagonia when ...

A few final thoughts and photos of our time trekking in Torres Del Paine and other parts of Patagonia. The following happened to us or people we know.

You know you're trekking in Patagonia when ...

1.) You say "Hola" about 100 times on any given day passing trekkers on the trail.

2.) Three-fourths of the people you just said "Hola" to are not from South America and don't speak Spanish.

3.) You quickly learn there is a huge difference between trekkers and tourists. The trekkers you meet are far more interesting than you are and they all seem to speak four languages.

4.) You get dirty. So dirty that buses often have signs forbidding trekkers from taking off their shoes.

5.) Random dogs follow you for miles into a national park where NO PERROS ARE ALLOWED. Everyone asks the gringo ... ¿Su perro?

6.) The wind knocks you over.

7.) A mouse chews through your tent and eats your crackers while you're sleeping.

8.) It's so hot that you strip down to a T-shirt and shorts, and then it rains. And then the wind picks up. Five minutes later it's so hot you strip down to a T-shirt and shorts again.

9.) Rain gear is the only effective mosquito repellent.

10.) The "trail" you're following may have been erected by a blindfolded, drunken Chileno.

11.) Maté is like having your own guide. It is never lost in translation and when shared all language barriers seem to fall away.

12.) The bridges seem like they might fall apart. Sometimes they do.

12.) It's entirely possible that the ice in your Pisco Sour came from an iceberg.

The Pain part deux

After leaving Valle de Frances we hiked to Los Cuernos, where we met up with our friend Maggie, who I met back in Mendoza. The following morning we made our way to Campamento Torres, the highest camp located about 45 minutes below the Torres. The photo below shows Mordor in the background. The mountain is actually called Cerro Paine Grande.

We enjoyed a nice cappuccino with Juliano, from Italy, and Jonas, from Belgium, as well Maggie, from Amsterdam, that night.

Early the next morning (around 5:30 a.m.) we hiked up to the towers and waited for the rising sun to do its magic. The photo below is of the towers. Every morning the towers turn from rose to orange and then finally gold as the sun's first rays of light rise over the mountains in the east.

That same day we parted ways with our friends and headed for the backside of Torres. Over the next few days we would pass through Seron, Lago Dickson, Los Perros and finally over John Gardner Pass, where we would finally see Glaciar Grey. We ended the trip a couple days later camping on Lago Grey. The photo below is of me on the top of the windy John Gardner pass.

This final photo is of Glaciar Grey, which is immense and far too big to capture in this picture.

Conquering the Pain

Adrian and I - loaded down with nine days of food and gear - left Puerto Natales on an afternoon bus headed for Torres Del Paine. Within a few hours we were at the trailhead and itching to get started on our adventure. The photo below is taken on our first morning heading north towards Lago Pehoe and eventually Valle de Frances, where we would camp that night. The large mountain we nicknamed Mordor since it was reminiscent of the evil-looking dwelling place of Sauron in the Lord of the Rings.

Now 10 days later I can safely say Torres Del Paine (pronounce PIE-nay) is one of the most beautiful places I've visited. Yes, on the W portion of the trail there are lots of people and it's expensive with entry to the park, paid campsites and the food. But then there are the waterfalls and hanging glaciars that occasionally release themselves from the wall and crash into the valley below. Oh yes, and the aquamarine lakes.

The photo below is of the right side of Valle de Frances, where you can see Los Cuernos. On the left side of the valley were hanging glaciars and a number of small waterfalls.

And we're back!

We made it out of the Towers of Pain a little dirty and completely unscathed. I'm not going to say we dominated Torres Del Paine, but ...

Actually, nature was nice to us, just some wind, rain and then later lots and lots of sun. Oh yeah, and in one section a plague of mosquitos. Photos and more information about our 9-day trek later.

Cheers