Sunday, June 29, 2008

June 14, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Death Canyon
Miles: 16


Adrian:
Seems like we irritated iPod a bit last night by coming in so late. Oh well, as Rob says, I wouldn't lose any sleep over him.

Our packs are ridiculously heavy with 11 days of food and it makes these first few days out of Kennedy Meadows difficult. We are tempted to eat a ton of our food to reduce weight, but this grub has to last us for many more days.

One nice development is that water is no longer an issue. We don't need to plan our day around water sources or carry 10 pounds of it. For the next 400 some miles, we'll carry little more than one liter at a time.

Rob is hanging tough but has some blister problems. I feel for him. He and us with our heavy packs make for a slow but steady team. We get to camp late and can barely cook food before falling asleep, much less journal entries. We struggle to keep up.

The mosquitoes are hitting hard even though we are camped high above any kind of water. We ate dinner down by the river and now all we can do is hunker down in the safety of our tents.

Tomorrow we have to do 20 miles in order to stay on Rob's schedule. So we got that to look forward to...

Kirsten:
Rob is pushing through the blister pain and is keeping up without difficulty. He is usually much chattier and these silent periods are a sure sign of a hiker who has hit the trail after a long absence. That's not to say that Rob is in bad shape. He is probably in better athletic condition than I am. Blisters and a heavy backpack are difficult to prepare for. The only way is to experience them on the trail. Unfortunately, this takes the spring out of many a hiker's step.

We ran into Jeff Saufley - part of the Saufley trail angel team - this morning. It was pretty cool to see him enjoying the PCT along with the rest of us.

Wildlife alert: We saw mule deer today. Sadly, no bear. I'm not wishing for a confrontation. I would love to see a bear lumbering through the forest - a safe distance away - doing what bears do. You know, catching fish, eating berries and grubs, scratching themselves. Bear stuff.

June 13, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Monache Meadow
Miles: 14

Adrian:
We drove down to Inyokern to pick-up Rob. It was a steep and winding drive into the desert from Kennedy Meadows. Rob was on time and we sped back into the cool hills.

We didn't get hiking until 3 p.m. and so the miles today weren't as big as we'd hoped for.

Smoke from the Clover Fire was visible almost immediately after joining the trail. Rangers told us it would be alright to pass through the fire zone during daylight hours so we moved forward with confidence.

Just before the fire zone Kirsten fell again. This time it was a scraped knee and a sizable chunk of wood stuck in her palm. The weight of her pack kept her from being able to stand-up adding insult to injury. I rushed up and helped her to our rest area in some tall Lodgepole pines. She painfully extracted the wood from her hand, washed and cleaned the various areas of broken skin, and on we hiked.

The smoke grew thicker and we could see the first of the flames as we entered the burn zone. Most of the large trees had burned but small fires were still active all around the fire. It was surreal with all the burned and burning trees and shrubs surrounding us; almost apocalyptic I'd venture to say. The smoke burned our eyes and irritated our throats motivating us to move quickly up the drainage and out into Monache Meadows, the largest in all the Sierra.

We passed a large fire crew with whom we chatted and borrowed a satellite from to call Rob's girlfriend and tell her he wouldn't be back until Tuesday night. Nice guys and girls.

We worked hard to get to the Kern River and arrived after dark, perhaps sometime around 9:45 p.m.

Good first day Rob!

Kirsten:
As usual generous people - Tiger and Chuck Norris (trail names) - helped make our day a little easier. Tiger has been driving and sometimes hiking the PCT, while her husband attempts to thru-hike. They lent us their car to drive the 30 or more miles to Inyokern to pick up Rob.

My pack - loaded down with a bear can and 11 days of food as well as an ice axe - is the heaviest it's ever been. This time that 0.7 mile roadwalk back to the trailhead quashed any excitement I had for the Sierras.

Within our first two miles I spotted a rattlesnake on the trail. It was if the desert was rising up one last time to remind us of what we had passed through these past 6 weeks.

Rob held up fine today. It was hard for all of us - Adrian and I weighted down with 11 days of food and Rob adjusting to the sore spots only a heavy backpack can create. Rob spotted a black scorpion - our first - as we approached the South Kern river.

June 12, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Kennedy Meadows
Miles: 0


Adrian:
Did laundry, sorted food, took showers, ate, packed, studied maps and guidebooks, and laughed at how heavy our packs will be.

It sounds like Rob is coming out to join us for about 70 miles and an ascent of Mount Whitney. This is definitely cool and I think he'll have a great time. He should show up in Inyokern tomorrow around noon and we'll head out a bit later.

The Clover fire, just north of here on the PCT, is not yet contained. In the past, the Forest Service was escorting hikers through a small portion of it and it seems that has not stopped. I talked with a Ranger and was informed that hikers were just being asked to pass through the fire zone during daylight hours and to be vigilant and on the look out for hotspots and flare-ups. He also said the fire was being kept in check by fire scars of past incidents, and mentioned two mobile fire fighting units are in the field monitoring the situation. We'll run into these units on the trail before the fire area.

The rough plan is to leave at 2 p.m. and try to do 12 miles to rendezvous with David for the night's camp and then hiking together for an ascent of Whitney.

Stay tuned...

Kirsten:
What does a thru-hiker who has just completed 700 miles of desert eat for breakfast in Kennedy Meadows? A pint of Ben & Jerry's ice cream, of course. I've watched about seven hikers including Adrian chow down on this chilly dairy treat this morning. I went with a muffin and coffee because I'm a bit more of a traditionalist.

Most hikers camp right behind the general store. We are maybe 100 yards down the road in a trailer owned by a local named Tom. He offers up a few of his trailers to hikers as well as an Internet cafe of sorts located in an old Airstream trailer.

I'm looking forward to hiking with Rob. He is in good shape and should have no problem doing the miles. I do think it will take some time to adjust to the weight of the backpack.

June 11, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Kennedy Meadows
Miles: 8


Adrian:
So we made it to Kennedy Meadows! The desert is finally over and mountains begin. What an epic 700 miles. We are healthy and ready to move on.

Kennedy Meadows is just a general store and a few small homes. The south fork of the Kern River flows just to the west and where the PCT emerges from the forest onto the road. A short hike east leads to the store. The store allows hikers to mail packages here for pick-up and people send food and gear for the mountain section ahead. Warmer clothing, bear canister, ice axe and fishing equipment round out the list. It's not uncommon to see 20 to 30 hikers sitting on the porch drinking beer and sifting through their gear.

All of this extra gear, coupled with the fact the next section is 178 miles plus a 17-mile roundtrip to Whitney, is going to stretch our packs to the limit. We are required to store our food in a bear canister but there is no way all of it will fit. The canister itself weighs over two and a half pounds and I'm not very happy about it. I'd rather not carry it but we face a large fine if caught without.

The first 702 miles for me have been real tough. It was mostly desert with sections of mountains and harder than I thought it would be. Water became an obsession and we had gone through several 20-plus mile sections without any available. While I can appreciate the fauna and flora of this climate, the truth of the matter is that this can be some pretty monotonous terrain not to mention dangerous. The amount of poisonous snakes one encounters is alarming and stepping on one is very possible. The hiker needs to constantly keep an eye on the trail, even though the scenery is spectacular, lest you step on one of these guys. If that happens and you are a few days from a road, it could be over. Because of this, I think this might be the most dangerous section of trail. Nevertheless, I still love the desert and appreciate the subtle beauty as well as the harsh reality of the danger.

So here's to the desert! We enjoyed our stay and saw a lot. The sights and smells will stay with me for a long time. I'm happy to be through but melancholy it's over...if that makes sense.

So onward, to the Sierra! So kickback and read on...

Kirsten:
The buzz around Kennedy Meadows is contagious. There is lots of revelry, storytelling and planning for the days ahead. It's amazing how long it takes to go through a box of food. I've been sifting and shuffling various packets of food in a futile attempt at making my load lighter.

Walking down the road to KM was such a thrill. We had just swam in the chilly South Kern and connected with some other hikers - honeymooners Moonshine and Rosemary, Treebeard and Sven. That 0.7 mile walk from the trailhead to KM general store marked a moment of success for all of us.

The first day of the hike out of Campo was the most difficult for me. Since that day, the trail or the miles I should say have come a little easier. That's not to say the trail has been a breeze. There have been days or parts of days where I have struggled with the heat, wind or even the scenery. Hiking through burned forest was mentally draining. Those were the miles that seemed to defy time no matter how fast we hiked.

Some of my favorite days included our time from Big Bear into Wrightwood. It was here I began to feel my body getting stronger. The best town we went through was Idylwild - compact and easy to get around, lots of markets, shops and restaurants and some of the friendliest people. One of the best meals we've had were lobster tacos at the Gastrognome here. The best hamburger I've had was the Jose Burger at the Paradise Cafe. I was pleasantly surprised with Wrightwood and our stay with the Moore's renewed my faith in the goodness that can come from people.

So that's it. Now a whole section awaits our arrival. Who knows what is in store or how long we'll be on the trail. Of all the little secrets and lessons I've managed to absorb these past 6 weeks, it's how easily and quickly it can all come to end. Now even on the hardest days I try to take something of value from it because tomorrow it all could be over.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

June 10, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Manter Creek, Rockhouse Basin
Miles: 24


Adrian:
Today we began the first climb of the day right in the morning. Beautiful and Gorgeous were still eating when we hit the trail at 6:30 a.m., Sven was right behind us and stayed there for all of our 24 miles today. It was nice talking to someone from Wisco and we shared many interests.

We hit the highest elevation of the trip at 8,000 plus feet and descended into a burned area for a short while. We did the ravine cha-cha for about 6 miles until we hit camp at Rockhouse Basin, Manter Creek.

I thought my shin splints were all gone but they were back a bit after the above-mentioned descent. I'll wear the bandage again for a day or two more to see if I can shelve it for good.

We camped with Sven, Phew and finally Tree Beard, whom we had not yet met. For dinner it was tortilla soup again with Wheat Thins. Dessert was Golden Oreos.

Coming down into Rockhouse Basin gave me a sense that we are now truly in the Sierra. The huge granitic domes of the Domeland Wilderness dominated the skyline to the west and the Kern River flowed through the valley. Billy, Steve and I had climbed in the Domelands some 10 years prior and it was good to be back.
Good night...

Kirsten:
Sometimes I'm a little chatty. No, really. This may come as a surprise to those who know me, but I can talk a lot. Since I've been on the trail, it's been different. Many days Adrian and I will hike for miles without speaking.

Today I reverted back to my old ways and Sven, Adrian and I talked the entire day. So it shouldn't have been a surprise that I developed a sore throat. One ricola lozenge solved the problem.

Monday, June 16, 2008

June 9, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Spanish Needle Creek
Miles: 22


Adrian:
You just know it's going to be a great day when you've been asked to model your legs for the cover of a book about hiking the PCT. Yep, it really happened. Phew is writing a book about her experience on the trail and approached me about it at Walker Pass.

We climbed 1,200 feet up to the Owen-Jenkins saddle. The first bit was through desert sand traversing up an east-facing slope. It was hot. The second part climbed into conifers offering shade and we glimpsed the stark, white granite of the east face of Owens. It was about a 3-mile ridge of granite spires shaped like a dragon's back. We passed many saddles and had great views of the peaks nearby.

Our campsite was at one of three crossings of the Spanish Needle Creek; we slept at the second. For dinner we had Bear Creek tortilla soup followed by phad thai (glorified ramen). Camped nearby were Beautiful, Gorgeous, and Sven from La Crosse, Wisconsin.

My shin splints have almost totally gone away after wearing the bandage for a few days. Lucky...

Kirsten:
A monster has been created. All these years and I never knew that I was married to America's Next Top Model. After the leg photo incident, I caught him holding onto his upper thigh as we made our way out of Walker's Pass. I asked Adrian what he was doing and he sheepishly admitted he was feeling his quads. We're going to have to insure his legs now.

We hiked and camped with Beautiful and Gorgeous today - my new favorite people on the trail. Super fun, a great couple and just all around good people.

June 8, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail


Destination: Saddle at Jack's Creek
Miles: 22


Adrian:
The day started with a long, sandy uphill and ended with a glorious sunset and a great campsite situated on a saddle with great views to the west and north.

We ran into trail angel Moto-Mary, who got her name from the motorcycle she rides to and from her water cache. Sometimes she rides with over 40 gallons at a time. Did I mention she's in her 70s? At the cache were Squatch and Jester, who are both filming trail life. Whew, S.O.L., and Coyote were also there. We hadn't seen them since the campfire at the Saufley's and they are a great bunch to hang out with.

After the cache there was a long climb to the highest point between Mexico and Walker Pass just a few miles ahead. We crested the highpoint and saw the smoke.

I haven't written about it yet but there is a fire ahead just north of Kennedy Meadows where we have resupply packages waiting for us. Rumor has it the trail is open but the Forest Service is escorting hikers through. Fires are a part of the hike but this is a terrible place to have one. Kennedy Meadows is the symbolic start of the Sierra and only 3 days from the start of the Whitney climb. A closure here would be heartbreaking. There was lots of smoke but the westerly winds kept it away from us and over the desert.

Tonight we sleep thinking about what might happen in Kennedy Meadows.

Kirsten:
Adrian summed up the day pretty well. I'm focused on ending this desert section on a strong and positive note.

We're meeting new hikers all the time and starting to form friendships with a number of others.

My body is feeling good for a thru-hiker. I still cramp up easily after breaks and oftentimes experience sharp stabbing sensations in my heels and footpads. This all fades away after getting back on the trail and hiking a mile or two.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

June 7, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Cave near road SC47
Miles: 24


Adrian:
It was hard being in the woods and higher elevations and then having to hike back down to the desert floor. Again we are amongst the heat, sand, Joshua Trees and long waterless stretches.

This evening we reached a really cool campsite of boulders that formed a cave with an entrance of stacked rocks to act as a windbreak. We cowboy camped (no tent) for the first time and while windy, it was quite fun. A small opening in the cave allowed easy viewing of the billions of stars above.

These sandy mountains are a favorite playground for ATVs, motocross and jeeps. I thought of Keyeser and imagined him throttling up the hills.

Kirsten:
I'm sure Adrian's entry left you imagining some amazing cave that blocked the wind and gave us a perfect view of the night sky. Let me describe the scene with a bit more accuracy.

This was how it went down. As we finished up our hike for the day, which took us from Pinyon and Jeffrey pine forests to a sandy trail that wound its way through Joshua trees, the wind picked up. I had read in the PCT guidebook about a group of boulders near the trail that provided decent camping. As we approached the boulders the wind started blowing another 5 to 10 mph harder than before. The only spot that provided any kind of shelter from the wind was the cave. The cave was pretty cool. It was not windproof because as I hunkered down in my sleeping bag I could feel it whipping over the top of me.

The cave was still a lucky find and I give Adrian full credit for finding it.

June 6, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Robin Bird Spring
Miles: 24


Adrian:

The day started off great with a nice warm sunrise hitting our tent shortly after we woke. We struck camp around 7 a.m. and began what would be a tough day because our packs are still heavy with water and food and the terrain was quite hilly.

Golden Oak Spring had good water flowing from a pipe into a cement trough. The spring source was protected from cattle contamination by a barbed wired fence. We still filtered to be on the safe side.

After the spring we continued our walk along Sky Ranch Wind Farm. These wind turbines are perched along a ridge in four groups over several miles. They have a mechanical hum as they turn in the wind. I read this farm produces enough energy annually to supply a residential city of 300,000 people for a year.

My new hobby during rest breaks these days is repairing my Six Moon Designs Starlite backpack. The first week on this trip the stitching on the main lifting strap began to pull. I know from the small amount of gear sewing that I've done that thread quality is paramount. Well looks like the thread on this pack is really cheap because it's breaking. I should note that I treat this pack very gently because I know lightweight gear is meant to be just that, and not bombproof. Other problems I have with the pack is the left load limiter has just about ripped out, the extension collar is pulling and the mesh pockets have begun to break. The pack sits heavy on my shoulders as well but I won't mention that. I've loaded it over 35 lbs except for once perhaps. Anyway, I hope it lasts through to Mammoth or later because I'm stuck with it until at least then due to post offices, or lack thereof.

Kirsten lived up to her trail name this morning by falling down on the trail again. It always looks funny but it's not. I try not to laugh but it's hard.

Kirsten:
You'd think someone pooped in Adrian's cereal the way he is fuming about his pack. It does suck and is a serious situation. He rarely gets mad, so when it happens it's a little funny. Adrian noticed a tear in the load limiter seam a few miles before we reached the spring. He sat down to stitch up the pack with some dental floss - cool little hiker trick - and was so angry he ended up snapping the sewing needle in half. Hilarious for me. Not so much for Adrian.

June 5, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: near Sky Ranch gate
Miles: 20


Adrian:
Is it me, or does Kirsten eat like it's her final meal (last breakfast in this case)? I had a half order of french toast and bacon at the cafe before heading out, she had something called the Paul Bunyon pancake stack plus a side of pork sausage :)

The big news is that after 8 trail miles this morning we crossed Hwy 58 and officially entered the Sierra Nevada, range of light. Make no mistake that the hills still look quite like they did before we entered the new range, but geographically we are there. So today, June 5, is the day we start our epic traverse of the Sierra Nevada Mountains from south to north by foot. That speaks volumes...ya know?

Wayne, a trail angel based in Tehachapi, gave Kirsten and I a ride back to the trail and the day started with rolling grasslands mixed with 100-foot high wind turbines. Fortunately for us, and not so for the wind farm owners, the wind was far less than it was when we descended to this point two days ago. We kept an eye out for the cantankerous Mojave Green Rattler with its neuro and respiratory toxin venom, by far the most dangerous snake we'll see on this trip.

I bought an Ace bandage for the shin splints and it seems to help. It's still very tender. I'm staying off the ibuprofen because the pain is not so bad.

Believe it or not, I actually got my first blister today. It's a small one on my right pinky toe. Thankfully, I caught it early and taped it up before it could grow larger than an eighth of an inch across. I suppose I was naive to think I could go the distance without a single one.

We camped on a nice ridge with good views to the east, which should provide for a nice sunrise and early sun to warm us up. It's chilly tonight and winds are moderate out of the east. The sky is clear and the stars are great.

Tomorrow we finish off this 25-mile waterless stretch at Golden Oak Spring and start an 18-mile stretch to Robin Bird Spring. After that the water situation ease a bit.

Kirsten:
I'm not sure why I continue to stuff myself on the mornings we leave a town and plan on hiking 20 miles. This morning was no different. I ate many large pancakes and a sausage patty. Then back at the motel room I pounded down a bunch of strawberries and a large juice drink.

It shouldn't surprise me then when those first five miles seemed to go on forever. It's as if the pancakes and syrup were riding along in my pack this morning, slowly dragging me down.

This is probably the heaviest my pack has been since starting the trail in Campo. The first water source is 24 miles away. I carried five liters of water to get me through today and the four miles to the source tomorrow. And then there is the food. We have been stopping in towns every four or five days - about 100 miles. This time we're hiking 144.5 miles to Kennedy Meadows. It doesn't help that I've developed the appetite of a Sumo wrestler.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

June 4, Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Tehachapi
Miles: 0


Adrian:
Rest day in Tehachapi. This is a train depot town and our hotel, the Santa Fe, is across the street from the tracks. Yes, this means horns and grinding wheels on tracks all day and all night long.

I got a haircut at Bob's Hotrod Barber Shop. The place reminded me of the barber shop my dad took me to as a youngster complete with barber pole, pictures of hotrod cars with scantily clad women, one older barber and one younger, mixed clientele and great conversation and jokes ranging from politics to how many times your mom had to beat you up until you learned to behave as a child. Basically how yesteryear was better than the present one. I enjoyed a straight blade shave, tapered back, very short cut.

I like the town but it's a bit spread out. Luckily, the hotel rents bikes and gives rides back to the trail.

Tomorrow we start the final leg of the desert! Stay tuned...

Kirsten:
Town stops are always good for slamming down good food and vegging out. This harder then it sounds. There is laundry, grocery shopping, post office stops etc. And al without a car. Resting often takes a backseat.

The desert is almost done. Only 144.5 miles until we reach cool mountain streams, pine forests and not a jeep road or interstate for days. The desert section coming up promises to be among the most difficult we've gone through. I hope the recent cool weather holds and we get through this section without any problems.

June 3, Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Tehachapi
Miles: 17


Adrian:
The wind was still howling this morning and the sand still blowing into everything. At 6 a.m. we packed up and hiked.

The terrain was all burned and all sand. It looked like the Kalahari Desert. We sunk into the sand with each step and the trail was eroded away in many spots. It was hot but still below average for the area...thankfully. The wind died down too, another blessing.

We reached the crest of the Tehachapi Mountains, still burned in most places and began the long descent to Tehachapi Pass and our hitch into town for resupply and rest. Hiking down past the windmill farms we experienced 60 mph winds. The hitch into town took about 20 minutes and 40 passing cars before an ex-hippie, current shopping center developer stopped and picked us up.

Turns out I have shin splints in my left leg. I grimace with each left step. Treatment is ice and rest...kinda hard to do in the desert while hiking 20-mile days. Until I can rest it properly, treatment will be arnica gel and vitamin i (ibuprofen). Wish me luck...

Kirsten:
I don't hate/dislike many things in this world.
1. Grey squirrels
2. Mean people
3. War
4. Mayo
And now ... hiking in 50 mph winds. This is perhaps one of the worst ways to spend an afternoon. The only way to make it worse is to throw in a burned out forest into the mix.

The trail towards the end of the day climbed and then traversed along a ridge located within feet the property line of wind farm. I'm guessing the trail didn't go down to the nice tree-lined canyon below because it falls within the boundaries of land owned by a cement company. This sucks.
Maybe there is no way around the issue. I still would like to meet the genius who thought it was a good idea to put the trail along the ridge of a wind farm. You know those little push toys that pop little balls around? The wind did that to me today. I really hope the proposed Tejon Ranch route will eliminate the silliness we've hiked through the past two days - burned out, eroded and windy forests. Oh yeah, let's not forget the aqueduct. Fun times.

June 2, Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Tylerhorse Canyon
Miles: 23


Adrian:
We woke at 4:50 a.m. this morning and 16.5 miles in the bank and earning interest before 11:30 a.m. We hiked along the famous California and Los Angeles aqueducts. The first being an open concrete ditch about 25 feet across and the second a buried iron pipe for some distance and then a buried concrete channel further along.

The walk along these waterways was on dirt roads with a hard packed mud surface. The result of such a hard surface for me was an irritated tendon. I don't know the name of the tendon but its the one that goes up along the shin above the top on the foot. It hurts most on downhills. Advil didn't do much to stop the pain. It's still tender in the tent tonight and I hope it gets better as it's a tough couple days ahead.

Wind was a big factor today and it was in our faces most of the time. After our break at the only shade, under a bridge, we climb out of Antelope Valley and into the foothills of the Tehachapi Mountains. The heat was manageable but we literally were blown off the trail many times. I'm guessing sustained winds of 50 mph and gusts into the 70s. Patagonia this spring could not even compare to this. To make matters worse, some of the hike was through burned areas. So really today was not about scenery but rather about getting out of the valley before the heat hit again, and that we did.

Tonight we are camped in burned out Tylerhorse Canyon with Data, Darren and Little Wrangler. The wind is howling and our tent is filling up with sand like on Combs Peak a few hundred miles ago. Tomorrow we hit Tehachapi and leave windy, dry and hot Antelope Valley behind.
Good riddance...

Kirsten:
This hike always offers up little lessons. Today's lesson - patience and tolerance. That's what walking alongside a steel pipe or cemented over aqueduct will do for you. It's boring and with no shade for 17 miles it was barely tolerable.

It was back to the hobo life for us today. Sitting under a bridge. Awesome. Good times.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

June 1, Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Hiker Town, Lancaster
Miles: 20


Adrian:
We were the last out of camp this morning at 7:30 a.m. Oh well.

We made good time in the growing heat and rolling hills. The trail more or less followed a jeep road and offered great views to Antelope Valley far below and our destination for the night at a place called Hikertown.

We filled our water for a 16-mile stretch at Red Rock water tank. Red Rock is typical of desert water tanks built and stocked with water to fight fires and provide emergency access for outdoors people. A metal hatch is pried from the 10,000-gallon tank to access the water that must be filtered before drunk. The large concrete top also makes a great place to spread out and rest.

After our break we started the steep descent into Antelope Valley. The path followed an unorthodox route due to the Tejon Ranch owners not allowing a more logical way across their land. There are rumors of an agreement in the making that will correct the situation.

After the long descent that included many ascents, we arrived at Hikertown in Lancaster. Hikertown is owned by Richard Skaggs and is cared for by Bob. It includes quirky fake western facades, a few trailers, a hostel of sorts and an outdoor shower. We got a ride a mile down the road and picked up some chips, soda and Coronas. For $10, Kirsten and I got our very own doublewide trailer for the night. Just try and tell me I don't know how to treat my girl!
Bliss...

Kirsten:
Hiking the PCT is sort of like being pregnant. I've never gone through a pregnancy so I'm basing this analogy off of my observations of friends and family.

Hiking the PCT is making me crave certain types of food and drink. I haven't drunk soda with any regularity in years. On the trail, I think about coca-cola classic in a can at least once a day. I also think about beer quite a bit. Adrian says he thinks about hot dogs. Fresh fruit, actually anything fresh, is high on my list. I even dreamt about swimming in a giant bowl of fruit salad the other day.

May 31, Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Sawmill Campground
Miles: 20


Adrian:
We got a ride from Chuck Norris (trail name) to the trailhead after stopping for coffee and a breakfast burrito at the local cafe. Doc had to buy some snacks so we bid him farewell. In the car with were Fight Club and Steph.

The climb out of San Franscisquito Valley was a couple thousand feet through mixed vegetation including chamise, chia, manzanita and conifers. It was a wonderful green. After cresting a ridge at 4,200 feet we descended to the Anderson water cache called Red Carpet, complete with the red carpet. There were the two girls Beautiful and Gorgeous, Greybeard, and Abacus. Later Walt and Steve showed up. We rested for an hour and a half before starting the climb to the north ridge of Liebre Mountain and the last Anderson cache, where we filled our water bottles for the last two miles of the day to our dry campground called Sawmill.

At Sawmill we met up with Zephyer, Little Wrangler, Darren, Piper and Steve. It was a windy night but the pines protected us and lulled us to sleep. Sleep well everyone...

Kirsten:
My fears of hiking through the desert are abating, as we get closer to the Sierras. I am still nervous about these last 10 days or so until Kennedy Meadows, which are supposed to be the most difficult section of the desert.

I think about water all the time. I found that living in the desert is vastly different from hiking through it. I may have mentioned this before. I think everyone - especially those who live out West - should be required to hike for two to three through Southern California. I can tell you that you'll never find me watering my lawn at noon in summer. Hell, at this rate I may never have a lawn ever again. It wastes too much water.

May 30, Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Anderson's Casa de Luna
Miles: 24


Adrian:

Thanks to Dave for signing our guestbook!

After buttoning up all our mailing chores we walked the mile into Aqua Dulce for breakfast at the Sweetwater Cafe. Kirsten and I had french toast with two eggs and sausage. I also had a half order of biscuits and gravy.

I've discovered the presence of a new threat to our health, the tick. There were three crawling on me a few days ago and I've seen two questing for hosts on grass blades overhanging the trail. Yesterday, I found one attached to my waist. I grasped it gently and pulled until he let go. After examining it to be sure he was still intact and to verify it was a woodtick, I threw it away. Today the bite is still red and itchy and I'm applying Neosporin to prevent infection. I need to do more frequent tick checks to prevent the possibility of having to get off the trail due to lymes or rocky mountain fever.

We hiked with Fight Club, Steph, and Doc. Doc is a 57-year-young hiker from northern Wisconsin. He's the guy who hiked 2,000 miles of the trail in 1976. Doc has canoed the Missouri river to the Mississippi down to New Orleans. He also canoed across the USA. I'm always amazed at the people from Wisconsin and how they get out and about. It's a proud State.

The Andersons are awesome trail angels as well. If the Saufley's are like your parents, the Andersons are like your college friends from New Orleans. The partying there is legendary. Wild things happened that night but I'm glad to report Kirsten and I were in our tent before the oil wrestling began. Sometimes the trail is like Vegas; what happens on the PCT stays on the PCT.

Walk good...

Kirsten:
Today I learned not all trail angels are built the same. We left the Saufley's with the trail on our minds and no intention of hiking the 24 miles to the Anderson's. The miles flew by - a bit of a time warp - and we found ourselves at the Oasis. The Oasis, about 17 miles from the Saufley's, is more than just a water cache. The Anderson's have etched out a little shade area and decorated the manzanita with monkeys, flamingoes, a palm tree and skeleton. The cache has water and an ice chest filled with tecate and coca-cola.

The cache peeked my curiosity and I started contemplating a night stay at the Anderson's. We reached the road at dusk and Fight Club and Steph walked the 1.5 miles to the Anderson's. About an hour later, Terri Anderson arrived with the mini-van and a couple of other hikers, who had come along for the ride.

The Anderson's house was filled with hikers. It was a little chaotic with the bonfire, beer and new faces. I won't reveal all the details of night. I can say two bottles of vegetable oil and some wraslin' went down.