Saturday, October 16, 2010

Turner's Flake on Thin Air Face at Cathedral Ledge New Hampshire

Turner's Flake is a great 5.8 climb I led a couple days ago. It has a great history, which to me makes a climb that much richer. I'll quote from Ed Webster's guidebook, "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire".




"This committing, strenuous lead ascends the prominent, left-curving layback flake just to the left of the Standard Route. Carry several large Friends and Camalots for protection - but bear in mind that the crack was originally led in 1958 by John Turner and Dr. Michael Ward with no protection at all!"




They climbed this route after being thwarted on another classic climb, Recompense. Being too early for the bar in North Conway (our situation as well), they climbed this pitch. I brought the biggest gear I have it was still tough. My mantra for the entire climb was, "Channel your inner John Turner", over and over till the I reached the top. Fun stuff. I've posted these in a larger format for your viewing pleasure. Thanks to Kirsten for taking pics while belaying; never easy.


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