Climbing Whitehorse Ledge in the White Mountains of New Hampshire

We spent a wonderful week in the "Whites", managing four days of fun climbing in great weather. Being our first time here, we wanted to focus on the historic classics which led us first to Whitehorse Ledge upon which we climbed the Standard Route. First free-climbed on July 2, 1932, it ascends the central face in 9 outstanding pitches. We enjoyed relative solitude on what is usually a crowded climb.


Approaching the first pitch, we hike up the slab to the "Launch Pad". A nice ledge with a good crack that takes protection marks the first pitch to the "Toilet Bowl" belay.


The first pitch is run-out 5.3 climbing to the white spot just above. This, the Toilet Bowl, has two bolts and is very comfortable for 2-3 people.


Kirsten is sitting at the "Pinch Belay", at the end of pitch 3, about 400 feet off the deck.


Still at the Pinch Belay, Kirsten can be seen far below. The views get better and better as we climb higher and higher. This shot is taken from "Lunch Ledge".


Lunch Ledge is pretty much the perfect belay. Whitehorse Lodge and sweeping granite lurk below. This was the crux 5.7 pitch, a slight variation from the 1932 route.



The Fall foliage was in full peak as seen from this view north.


Kirsten climbing the 2nd to last pitch.


And finally topping out over 1000 feet from the start! I think a lot of modern day rock climbers think of themselves as a brave bunch, but doing this route in stiff-soled hiking boots, with a 50 foot hemp rope and a hand full of pitons in 1932 with no idea if it "goes", is a whole different game. We, with our modern sticky rubber-ed slippers and protective gear that fits perfectly into every little crevice and hole, should pause and give salutation to these early pioneers. Doing so with a finely crafted local ale is highly recommended!