Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Things you may find on a backcountry climb in Arizona

You might find a torquoise mine. All the big juicy specimens have been harvested but you could find rocks with bright trace minerals to take home. A great reminder of the adventure.

You may find inscriptions dating pretty far back from the miners that worked this claim.

If you looked really closely, you could find little creatures. Careful where you step and reach. Some of these creatures could be very dangerous if they get upset while others use camouflage as a form of defense.

If you dare venture into the mines, do so with caution and a good headlamp or two. Listen for creatures that dwell deep within the depths. Play the video below for an example of what you might see or hear. Thanks for reading the blog! Happy New Year!!

One of my fine climbing partners, Robert, joined me on a great climb called KR Goes To Vallhala. We completed what we think was the second or third ascent of this 5.8+, 700 foot climb up the northwest face of Pontatoc Ridge near famous Finger Rock Canyon.
Looking down pitch 2 about 1/4 the way up. Note vegetation that would clean up with traffic. But don't expect that anytime soon. No queues on this route, even though I thought it was great.
Robert climbing the upper portion of pitch 2.

Looking up the crux 5.9- exciting corner. It looks loose, but it's actually pretty solid.

Climb up past agave to roof and turn it on the right with little protection. I thought this was the mental crux, if not the physical one as well. The roof move was done 20' out from protection with potential of a ledgy fall if you blow it. I didn't blow it.

Robert on the summit ridge with a great view of Tucson. A quick one hour hike down and we were homeward bound, which is only a 10 minute drive. Gotta love 10 minute commutes to 700 foot 2nd ascents. Oh, did I mention the 1 hour bushwack to the base of the climb?


A little out of order but I wanted to show the vegetation. I see agave, shin daggers, and other fine desert flora. A great two bolt anchor thanks to the 1st ascentionsists Kevin Mayhew and company.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

New Routes in Cochise Stronghold


Been spending as much time as possible putting up new rock climbing routes in Cochise Stronghold as well as 2nd ascents of recently climbed towers here. In keeping with local tradition, I've sworn that I would not publish said routes on the Internet. We believe that this sacred land is one of adventure and should so remain.

We bolt on lead, from the ground up, and only when absolutely necessary. No sport routes.

Hoping for one of these for Christmas :)

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

2011 Boston Marathon: ON!


The 2011 Boston Marathon opened for registration yesertday at 9 a.m. and closed at 5:30 p.m. Last year it took 2 months to fill, this year 8.5 hours!

Luckily I was on it and signed up early. After missing out last year, and having already arranged frequent flyer tickets and a hotel for 2011, I was going to leave nothing to chance.
Training starts in earnest November 11, about the same time I start tapering for the El Tour de Tucson bike race.
This blog will follow my journey to Boston.




Saturday, October 16, 2010

The Colors of New Hamsphire


The rarely traversed route from "Toe Crack" to "Thin Air'.


Sugar Hill. Yes, we procured local boiled maple syrup.



Reminded me of home and made me homesick. I miss my family and friends in Wisconsin.



A geeky pic of a geeky guy:)



Many covered bridges adorn the scenic highways. They were covered to protect them from the elements.


This is our Chevy Aveo rental. A nice car.



A wonderful bridge and a wonderful woman.

Book of Solemnity: Cathedral Ledge

A short post on a great climb. I'll quote Ed Webster again, "A great line and an all-time New Hampshire classic, with a famous 1st pitch and a spacious belay ledge...Make increasingly difficult moves up the dihedral to the first roof, face climbing past three pitons around the roof's right edge to a large and comfortable belay ledge."

The pitch was first graded 5.9+, the traditional rating of the day. Today the rating is 5.10a.


Turner's Flake on Thin Air Face at Cathedral Ledge New Hampshire

Turner's Flake is a great 5.8 climb I led a couple days ago. It has a great history, which to me makes a climb that much richer. I'll quote from Ed Webster's guidebook, "Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire".




"This committing, strenuous lead ascends the prominent, left-curving layback flake just to the left of the Standard Route. Carry several large Friends and Camalots for protection - but bear in mind that the crack was originally led in 1958 by John Turner and Dr. Michael Ward with no protection at all!"




They climbed this route after being thwarted on another classic climb, Recompense. Being too early for the bar in North Conway (our situation as well), they climbed this pitch. I brought the biggest gear I have it was still tough. My mantra for the entire climb was, "Channel your inner John Turner", over and over till the I reached the top. Fun stuff. I've posted these in a larger format for your viewing pleasure. Thanks to Kirsten for taking pics while belaying; never easy.