Destination: Ash Camp, McCloud River
Miles: 29
Adrian:
The smoke has cleared...for today at least. We woke at 5:50 a.m. to a grand view of Mount Shasta bathed in the purple glow of sunrise. The visibility has improved dramatically and is the best since several hundred miles ago. Thanks for sending out those prayers for us. It worked!
The trail was more or less the same as yesterday with stands of beautiful pine trees towering hundreds of feet overhead mixed with clear-cut tracts overgrown with 10-foot high manzanita/creosote hell plants. The terrain was rolling except for a 1,000-foot plus climb in the morning. The tread was mostly kind though dusty, as per usual.
We are now in lower elevations ranging from 5,000 feet to 2,000 feet above sea level. The temperatures are in the 90s and feel much hotter when hiking through overgrown scrub brush. On the other hand, when in the majestic pine stands, the canopy totally blocks all sunlight and makes the midday temps much more tolerable.
Water, while still scarce, has become more available thanks to more springs. We still have 15-mile dry sections but only one or so a day.
Two more days till Mount Shasta City and badly needed showers and laundry. We won't zero, but we will stay in a motel for the night. Hopefully we'll get some new pictures uploaded at an Internet cafe. Ciao!
Kirsten:
OK, $20 we don't stay in Mount Shasta City.
You'll never understand how clear skies can change your spirits until you've hiked a month in haziness. Waking up to Mount Shasta - to be able to see it - was amazing. The morning flew by, in part because of the clarity.
I'm looking forward to catching up with (or having others catch us) some of our friends. The trail is so much more fun with our peeps.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
July 27, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Saddle near Bartle Gap
Miles: 23.5
Adrian:
The trail today was very much overgrown with manzanita and creosote, two very strong and tough shrub types. This does two things; shred your legs if you're not wearing pants, and breaks any breeze that might be swirling above you with the cooling power you need to keep from getting drenched in sweat. At least the trail was easy to follow with the help of tape on trees.
We walked through a mixture of awesome pine forests, clear cuts, and oak groves. This morning we crossed a big dam on Lake Britton. Water was gushing out the base and slamming into concrete dividers creating quite a spectacle. On the trail with us were Moonshine, Tiger Lily, Kathleen, iPod, Chris and Johnny Cache. Yep, we caught those two again. It's kinda fun catching people and being caught on the trail. It can totally change the dynamic of your hike.
Well, it's getting dark and my stuff is laying all over the place here in camp. Kirsten is in the tent and I'm headed there now. Good night and God bless you all.
Kirsten:
I had big aspirations of hiking 25 or more miles today and ended up completely bonking out. We still managed to eck out 23 miles or so. I guess it's sort of comforting that even on the hard days I can still manage to hike more than 20 miles.
I still can't quite believe that we've passed Burney Falls State Park. I remember back in April packing up our food boxes and thinking, "Will we ever reach Burney?" It seemed so far at the time.
A word about section O, the part of the trail we're walking through. I've been warned about it for some time now. The highlights up to this point have been poison oak so thick it's impossible to avoid and large clear-cut areas. Not exactly the most picturesque section. There have been a few beautiful sections of forest and I hope they don't suffer the same fate as some of these other logging areas. I'm not going to go on some environmental tirade. It's just a little sad to walk amongst these giant and then come upon a clear-cut area.
Miles: 23.5
Adrian:
The trail today was very much overgrown with manzanita and creosote, two very strong and tough shrub types. This does two things; shred your legs if you're not wearing pants, and breaks any breeze that might be swirling above you with the cooling power you need to keep from getting drenched in sweat. At least the trail was easy to follow with the help of tape on trees.
We walked through a mixture of awesome pine forests, clear cuts, and oak groves. This morning we crossed a big dam on Lake Britton. Water was gushing out the base and slamming into concrete dividers creating quite a spectacle. On the trail with us were Moonshine, Tiger Lily, Kathleen, iPod, Chris and Johnny Cache. Yep, we caught those two again. It's kinda fun catching people and being caught on the trail. It can totally change the dynamic of your hike.
Well, it's getting dark and my stuff is laying all over the place here in camp. Kirsten is in the tent and I'm headed there now. Good night and God bless you all.
Kirsten:
I had big aspirations of hiking 25 or more miles today and ended up completely bonking out. We still managed to eck out 23 miles or so. I guess it's sort of comforting that even on the hard days I can still manage to hike more than 20 miles.
I still can't quite believe that we've passed Burney Falls State Park. I remember back in April packing up our food boxes and thinking, "Will we ever reach Burney?" It seemed so far at the time.
A word about section O, the part of the trail we're walking through. I've been warned about it for some time now. The highlights up to this point have been poison oak so thick it's impossible to avoid and large clear-cut areas. Not exactly the most picturesque section. There have been a few beautiful sections of forest and I hope they don't suffer the same fate as some of these other logging areas. I'm not going to go on some environmental tirade. It's just a little sad to walk amongst these giant and then come upon a clear-cut area.
July 26, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Burney Falls State Park Campground
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We are camped at Burney Falls State Park campground in the hiker/biker sites. The only other person sharing the site with us is Joel, a PCTer.
Burney Falls starts as a dry creek and in a half mile becomes California's biggest waterfall in terms of volume; bigger than any of the falls in Yosemite. It's secret is a series of springs that start as a trickle and soon become a raging torrent.
The park has a nice store where we bought a hotdog and some soda while picking up the resupply box we sent here. Moonshine, Tiger Lily, and iPod are with us. Since we packed to much food in the box way back in April, they got to score some free food. Most of the stuff was from Trader Joe's, so we are eating well this stretch.
Smoke still limits visibility and thus our views of Mount Shasta. It's been real hazy since Mammoth at mile 906. Crazy. There's another fire near Etna that I hear has been out for some time but still has 20 miles of the PCT closed causing a 40-mile road walk. We hope the trail will be reopened by the time we get up there.
All is well. I hope everyone will pray for less smoke and fire in Cali!
Kirsten:
We woke up this morning and jetted down to our next on trail water about seven miles north. The dust and heat seemed a little better today. Although the promise of food - real food - at the Burney Falls campground may have eased any discomfort caused by the blazing sun.
I was shocked by how much food we sent ourselves. How could we have been that far off? We probably packed seven days of food in the box we shipped to Burney Falls. The food amounts were off. Way off. The food choices we made were brilliant. Chocolate-covered espresso beans, for one. The joy we got out of opening the box and tearing through the contents made me realize how much we or at least I think, dream, and obsess about food. I wasn't like this before getting on the trail. There were the occasional cravings usually centered around a favorite dish at a restaurant. These days I think about food all the time. Sometimes I imagine what I might buy in the next town. Other times I reminisce about meals in my past. It's sort of sad and scary when I think of how many hours I spend daydreaming about food while I hike. So you ask, what did I eat today once we arrived at the campground? Hmmmm. A hot dog, soda, ice cream bar, tortilla chips and then an assortment of snacks from our box!
Then I had dinner.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We are camped at Burney Falls State Park campground in the hiker/biker sites. The only other person sharing the site with us is Joel, a PCTer.
Burney Falls starts as a dry creek and in a half mile becomes California's biggest waterfall in terms of volume; bigger than any of the falls in Yosemite. It's secret is a series of springs that start as a trickle and soon become a raging torrent.
The park has a nice store where we bought a hotdog and some soda while picking up the resupply box we sent here. Moonshine, Tiger Lily, and iPod are with us. Since we packed to much food in the box way back in April, they got to score some free food. Most of the stuff was from Trader Joe's, so we are eating well this stretch.
Smoke still limits visibility and thus our views of Mount Shasta. It's been real hazy since Mammoth at mile 906. Crazy. There's another fire near Etna that I hear has been out for some time but still has 20 miles of the PCT closed causing a 40-mile road walk. We hope the trail will be reopened by the time we get up there.
All is well. I hope everyone will pray for less smoke and fire in Cali!
Kirsten:
We woke up this morning and jetted down to our next on trail water about seven miles north. The dust and heat seemed a little better today. Although the promise of food - real food - at the Burney Falls campground may have eased any discomfort caused by the blazing sun.
I was shocked by how much food we sent ourselves. How could we have been that far off? We probably packed seven days of food in the box we shipped to Burney Falls. The food amounts were off. Way off. The food choices we made were brilliant. Chocolate-covered espresso beans, for one. The joy we got out of opening the box and tearing through the contents made me realize how much we or at least I think, dream, and obsess about food. I wasn't like this before getting on the trail. There were the occasional cravings usually centered around a favorite dish at a restaurant. These days I think about food all the time. Sometimes I imagine what I might buy in the next town. Other times I reminisce about meals in my past. It's sort of sad and scary when I think of how many hours I spend daydreaming about food while I hike. So you ask, what did I eat today once we arrived at the campground? Hmmmm. A hot dog, soda, ice cream bar, tortilla chips and then an assortment of snacks from our box!
Then I had dinner.
July 25, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Near Road 36N18 in a Lava Bed
Miles: 23
Adrian:
We stayed at Subway Cave Campground last night after hiking into the dark. Lots of people were there and only a few spots next to the highway were still available.
After leaving camp around 6:30 a.m., a short stroll to the Subway Cave led us to the 25'x50' entrance to the lava tube. The walls and floor were quite smooth and the ceiling arched just like a subway. There was a total lack of any stalactites or stalagmites as one would find in a karst limestone cavern. We did need headlamps and jackets, as it was cold and over a third of a mile long.
After leaving the cave we began our 30-mile waterless section. The trail climbed up to Hat Creek Rim, a fault line basically. The area burned back in the 80's if I remember correctly, and now it is a totally exposed, crazy hot section. Lots of lava around gives it a Vulcan's Realm look and feel.
We hooked up with Glowworm for a bit, who is recovering from a nasty spider bite. While visiting the doctor for treatment, he was told for the second time this trip (first time was for an infected blister) that the current ailment would most likely take him off the trail. Guess what? He's still on and hanging in there. He's a toughy.
Just before camp I spotted a cute looking owl and we spent a few minutes blinking at each other no more than 20 feet apart. He flew away before I could show Kirsten. Shortly after that encounter, I was surprised by a nice sized garner snake basking on the trail. It was nice to see some other living beings on the trail again (other than just PCTers, who are also becoming more scarce these days). Good times...
Kirsten:
Ever hike through fine powdered hot chocolate mix - you know, the gourmet stuff that comes in a large metal can? That's what I did today. Only the powdery mix was dirt.
This superfine talcum powder is amazingly sticky. With every step little dust plumes rise into the air, attaching itself to my legs, hands and pack.
My time in the desert was the perfect prep course for Hat Creek Rim. The oftentimes-stifling heat didn't slow me down as much as I had expected. The hike started out pretty nice this morning as we rose from the valley floor up to the rim. The temperature was manageable until about 1 p.m. It was around that time I started to fade and hourly breaks became necessary. Thankfully, there are two water caches along this 30-mile dry section.
The views today, and just about every other day the past two weeks, are limited at best. Smoke from area fires has settled on the horizon, blotting out the mountains including Lassen Peak and Mount Shasta. I thought back to a time on the trail when the sky was bluebird clear. And I realized there has been a smoky haze for at least part of the day since Mammoth Lakes. That was mile 950. My mind these days is focused on possible fires north of here and I wonder, will the whole trail be up in flames by the end of summer?
Miles: 23
Adrian:
We stayed at Subway Cave Campground last night after hiking into the dark. Lots of people were there and only a few spots next to the highway were still available.
After leaving camp around 6:30 a.m., a short stroll to the Subway Cave led us to the 25'x50' entrance to the lava tube. The walls and floor were quite smooth and the ceiling arched just like a subway. There was a total lack of any stalactites or stalagmites as one would find in a karst limestone cavern. We did need headlamps and jackets, as it was cold and over a third of a mile long.
After leaving the cave we began our 30-mile waterless section. The trail climbed up to Hat Creek Rim, a fault line basically. The area burned back in the 80's if I remember correctly, and now it is a totally exposed, crazy hot section. Lots of lava around gives it a Vulcan's Realm look and feel.
We hooked up with Glowworm for a bit, who is recovering from a nasty spider bite. While visiting the doctor for treatment, he was told for the second time this trip (first time was for an infected blister) that the current ailment would most likely take him off the trail. Guess what? He's still on and hanging in there. He's a toughy.
Just before camp I spotted a cute looking owl and we spent a few minutes blinking at each other no more than 20 feet apart. He flew away before I could show Kirsten. Shortly after that encounter, I was surprised by a nice sized garner snake basking on the trail. It was nice to see some other living beings on the trail again (other than just PCTers, who are also becoming more scarce these days). Good times...
Kirsten:
Ever hike through fine powdered hot chocolate mix - you know, the gourmet stuff that comes in a large metal can? That's what I did today. Only the powdery mix was dirt.
This superfine talcum powder is amazingly sticky. With every step little dust plumes rise into the air, attaching itself to my legs, hands and pack.
My time in the desert was the perfect prep course for Hat Creek Rim. The oftentimes-stifling heat didn't slow me down as much as I had expected. The hike started out pretty nice this morning as we rose from the valley floor up to the rim. The temperature was manageable until about 1 p.m. It was around that time I started to fade and hourly breaks became necessary. Thankfully, there are two water caches along this 30-mile dry section.
The views today, and just about every other day the past two weeks, are limited at best. Smoke from area fires has settled on the horizon, blotting out the mountains including Lassen Peak and Mount Shasta. I thought back to a time on the trail when the sky was bluebird clear. And I realized there has been a smoky haze for at least part of the day since Mammoth Lakes. That was mile 950. My mind these days is focused on possible fires north of here and I wonder, will the whole trail be up in flames by the end of summer?
July 24, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Subway Cave Campground, Old Station
Miles: 25
Adrian:
We had to do 21 miles before 5 p.m., when we thought the Hat Creek store closed. We did the miles but really didn't need to because we found out that they do not close until 7. Oh well, we got milk shakes, burgers and beer as a reward.
The day was hot but the miles were relatively easy due to a good tread and downhills from high in Lassen National Park.
Lassen is like a mini Yellowstone with lots of hydrothermic formations such as mud pots, vents and geysers. It's much less developed than Yellowstone, so one can get much closer to the attractions here due to fewer restrictions.
Tonight we are camped next to a big cave complex, really lava tubes, and plan to explore it in the morning. You need headlamps and jackets for the unguided trip and I'm excited to check it out.
We will forego the birthday party at the Heitmann's tonight in order to keep moving along.
Stay tuned for caving tomorrow!
Miles: 25
Adrian:
We had to do 21 miles before 5 p.m., when we thought the Hat Creek store closed. We did the miles but really didn't need to because we found out that they do not close until 7. Oh well, we got milk shakes, burgers and beer as a reward.
The day was hot but the miles were relatively easy due to a good tread and downhills from high in Lassen National Park.
Lassen is like a mini Yellowstone with lots of hydrothermic formations such as mud pots, vents and geysers. It's much less developed than Yellowstone, so one can get much closer to the attractions here due to fewer restrictions.
Tonight we are camped next to a big cave complex, really lava tubes, and plan to explore it in the morning. You need headlamps and jackets for the unguided trip and I'm excited to check it out.
We will forego the birthday party at the Heitmann's tonight in order to keep moving along.
Stay tuned for caving tomorrow!
July 23, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Summit Lake Junction
Miles: 21
Adrian:
We woke up this morning at 7:30 a.m. for our rendezvous with Frodo for the bike return. I ate yogurt, an Odwalla Super Protein fruit juice, and a fresh mango. I hear the yogurt offers probiotics to help replace the good bacteria in my gut being killed off by water treatments we've been using. The mango and fruit juice is to stave off scurvy :)
Frodo showed at 9:30 and we drove to the trail on Highway 36. Gazelle was there, as was Squatch, Mike and Kat.
Yeti caught us again. We haven't seen him for more than 900 miles. I'm happy to hike with him again.
The days walk was through thick evergreen forests with trees over 200 feet tall. Big Jeffery Pine cones littered the floor of the forest. We passed many Forest Service roads and the trail was well marked.
At mile 16 for the day we hit the Terminal Geyser. More steam vents than geyser, hot air and boiling water jetted from holes in the earth. Scalding water flowed from the spring and the rotten egg smell of sulfur hung thick in the hot, moist air. Kirsten scolded me for walking too close to a vent.
A mile later we hit the junction to Drakesbad. A German immigrant from the late 1800's (I think) started the resort. It features hot springs, a main lodge, dining lodge and several cabins. Kirsten insisted we go, so I was trapped. I'm glad we did. For $10 we ate a full BBQ buffet with steak and hot dogs with all the fixins. They even served Gallo wines out of 5-gallon boxes...bliss.
We are camped with the "6 pack". More on them tomorrow. They are a fun group. A birthday party is coming up tomorrow as well, so stay tuned!
Kirsten:
Guess what happens when you follow Adrian. You get to watch him nearly burn his fingers off in scalding hot water. On this 0.2-mile detour off the PCT, visitors can walk along a path with steam vents and small mudpots. Giant red signs, maybe three or more, strategically located near the boiling creeks and vents. These signs basically say stay on the path and don't touch anything. This is about the time Adrian dipped his hand in some water and ten paces later stepped off the path to "get a closer look."
An hour later we were sitting with some other PCTers sipping wine and eating steak. Drakesbad, which has a hot springs pool, was awesome. I wish our stay was longer - at least to squeeze in a soak.
So the six-pack is Evie, Spaceman Spiff, Six Toes, V-nick, Treebeard and Jellybean. Glo-worm also is part of the 6-pack. The 6-pack were among the few hikers who roadwalked the fire closure. Spaceman Spiff and I were talking and I noticed Spiff was wearing a pair of Prana pants that looked just like the ripped ones I had placed in the hiker box at the Saufley's. It turns out Spiff rescued and repaired the pants and has been wearing them ever since. Spiff is clearly much more crafty than I. The 6-pack are always laughing and generally having a good time. I'm looking forward to hanging out with them over the next couple weeks if we stay on a similar pace.
Miles: 21
Adrian:
We woke up this morning at 7:30 a.m. for our rendezvous with Frodo for the bike return. I ate yogurt, an Odwalla Super Protein fruit juice, and a fresh mango. I hear the yogurt offers probiotics to help replace the good bacteria in my gut being killed off by water treatments we've been using. The mango and fruit juice is to stave off scurvy :)
Frodo showed at 9:30 and we drove to the trail on Highway 36. Gazelle was there, as was Squatch, Mike and Kat.
Yeti caught us again. We haven't seen him for more than 900 miles. I'm happy to hike with him again.
The days walk was through thick evergreen forests with trees over 200 feet tall. Big Jeffery Pine cones littered the floor of the forest. We passed many Forest Service roads and the trail was well marked.
At mile 16 for the day we hit the Terminal Geyser. More steam vents than geyser, hot air and boiling water jetted from holes in the earth. Scalding water flowed from the spring and the rotten egg smell of sulfur hung thick in the hot, moist air. Kirsten scolded me for walking too close to a vent.
A mile later we hit the junction to Drakesbad. A German immigrant from the late 1800's (I think) started the resort. It features hot springs, a main lodge, dining lodge and several cabins. Kirsten insisted we go, so I was trapped. I'm glad we did. For $10 we ate a full BBQ buffet with steak and hot dogs with all the fixins. They even served Gallo wines out of 5-gallon boxes...bliss.
We are camped with the "6 pack". More on them tomorrow. They are a fun group. A birthday party is coming up tomorrow as well, so stay tuned!
Kirsten:
Guess what happens when you follow Adrian. You get to watch him nearly burn his fingers off in scalding hot water. On this 0.2-mile detour off the PCT, visitors can walk along a path with steam vents and small mudpots. Giant red signs, maybe three or more, strategically located near the boiling creeks and vents. These signs basically say stay on the path and don't touch anything. This is about the time Adrian dipped his hand in some water and ten paces later stepped off the path to "get a closer look."
An hour later we were sitting with some other PCTers sipping wine and eating steak. Drakesbad, which has a hot springs pool, was awesome. I wish our stay was longer - at least to squeeze in a soak.
So the six-pack is Evie, Spaceman Spiff, Six Toes, V-nick, Treebeard and Jellybean. Glo-worm also is part of the 6-pack. The 6-pack were among the few hikers who roadwalked the fire closure. Spaceman Spiff and I were talking and I noticed Spiff was wearing a pair of Prana pants that looked just like the ripped ones I had placed in the hiker box at the Saufley's. It turns out Spiff rescued and repaired the pants and has been wearing them ever since. Spiff is clearly much more crafty than I. The 6-pack are always laughing and generally having a good time. I'm looking forward to hanging out with them over the next couple weeks if we stay on a similar pace.
July 22, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Seneca Motel, Chester
Miles: 46
Adrian:
The alarm went off at 5:15 a.m. in order to assure an early start to avoid some of the midday heat. We froze for the first few miles though, especially our hands on the downhills. Cold but fun. I'm amazed how fast the miles go compared to walking. We stopped at Anna's in Greenville for breakfast just before the big 1,200-foot climb of the day up to Canyon Dam. That was hard.
The road, a scenic byway, had many logging trucks clearing trees from the Moonlight Fire last year. Coupled with very small road shoulders, the ride through the canyons was quite frightening at times. Hills were abundant, but with the uphills also came the downhills. I think it ended with a net climb of around 1,500 feet.
Arriving at Canyon Dam, we saw Squatch, Gazelle, High Octane and Nathan at the store. They had some boxes forwarded there from Belden, which is where the trail normally goes through, but not this year due to fires. These hikers are road walking the 84-mile road detour, a noble cause.
The route joins a bike path off the highway and into trees. It went around about half the lake before ending back on highway 89. We continued on the highway until Highway 36 where we turned east towards Chester, and stayed the night in the Seneca Motel. Another typical hiker motel.
I feel good about not skipping the road section even though we did bike it instead of walking. I have a hard time understanding why people are skipping so much of the trail. Some trail angels are recommending a big skip and that might be influencing some people. Hike your own hike, but if you are going to skip a section, go back and finish it as a section hiker before saying you've hiked the trail. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Kirsten:
The day started and ended with my bottom aching. The ride out of Quincy started well, a nice bike lane, a cool even cold climate. Within a few miles the lane ended and we were left with little to no shoulder. At first this didn't really bother me. The traffic on this scenic byway became busier with logging trucks, semis and fire-related trucks as our ride continued. About four miles from Canyon Dam I had a scary moment. As I began to slow down and pull over for a semi - which I heard coming up behind me - I lost my balance. The wind gusts created from the passing truck caused me to fall over onto the shoulder. I was a couple of feet from the road at the time. This small fact didn't ease my nerves and I shakily rode up a mile more before reaching Adrian. Thankfully, Cuddles told us about a bike path from Canyon Dam almost up to Chester. The 8 or 9-mile reprieve from traffic was nothing short of a miracle.
I'm still glad we did the ride. Something new on our adventure up to Canada. But any little dreams I had of biking back home after the hike have been permanently shelved.
Miles: 46
Adrian:
The alarm went off at 5:15 a.m. in order to assure an early start to avoid some of the midday heat. We froze for the first few miles though, especially our hands on the downhills. Cold but fun. I'm amazed how fast the miles go compared to walking. We stopped at Anna's in Greenville for breakfast just before the big 1,200-foot climb of the day up to Canyon Dam. That was hard.
The road, a scenic byway, had many logging trucks clearing trees from the Moonlight Fire last year. Coupled with very small road shoulders, the ride through the canyons was quite frightening at times. Hills were abundant, but with the uphills also came the downhills. I think it ended with a net climb of around 1,500 feet.
Arriving at Canyon Dam, we saw Squatch, Gazelle, High Octane and Nathan at the store. They had some boxes forwarded there from Belden, which is where the trail normally goes through, but not this year due to fires. These hikers are road walking the 84-mile road detour, a noble cause.
The route joins a bike path off the highway and into trees. It went around about half the lake before ending back on highway 89. We continued on the highway until Highway 36 where we turned east towards Chester, and stayed the night in the Seneca Motel. Another typical hiker motel.
I feel good about not skipping the road section even though we did bike it instead of walking. I have a hard time understanding why people are skipping so much of the trail. Some trail angels are recommending a big skip and that might be influencing some people. Hike your own hike, but if you are going to skip a section, go back and finish it as a section hiker before saying you've hiked the trail. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Kirsten:
The day started and ended with my bottom aching. The ride out of Quincy started well, a nice bike lane, a cool even cold climate. Within a few miles the lane ended and we were left with little to no shoulder. At first this didn't really bother me. The traffic on this scenic byway became busier with logging trucks, semis and fire-related trucks as our ride continued. About four miles from Canyon Dam I had a scary moment. As I began to slow down and pull over for a semi - which I heard coming up behind me - I lost my balance. The wind gusts created from the passing truck caused me to fall over onto the shoulder. I was a couple of feet from the road at the time. This small fact didn't ease my nerves and I shakily rode up a mile more before reaching Adrian. Thankfully, Cuddles told us about a bike path from Canyon Dam almost up to Chester. The 8 or 9-mile reprieve from traffic was nothing short of a miracle.
I'm still glad we did the ride. Something new on our adventure up to Canada. But any little dreams I had of biking back home after the hike have been permanently shelved.
July 21, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Gold Pan Lodge
Miles: 32
Adrian:
So we wake up this morning not really knowing where we are and wondering how far it is to the Quincy-La Porte Road. We were up by 5:30 a.m. and hiking by 6:15. We hit the road about 3.5 hours after starting and washed up in the river a quarter of a mile west of the trail, at the roadside. As we waited for Chuck Norris to arrive to give us a ride to Quincy, Frodo shows up with two bikes!!
Yes indeed, we are going to Schwinn-blaze it. After loading some gear not needed for the 80-mile bike trip, stuff like the tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, etc., we mounted up and began a wicked descent of about 3,000 feet. I worried about the brakes as we taxed them to the limit to keep from careening off the road and over a 500-foot cliff. Upon completion of the downhill, we had another few miles of ups and downs till arriving in Quincy for the night.
We booked a room at the Gold Pan Inn, and went for dinner at Sweet Lorriane's, which was pretty good.
After dinner we went back to the room, watched Young Guns and Bowling for Columbine before going to sleep.
Tomorrow we continue to Chester, our longest stretch on the bike.
Kirsten:
Hiking 1,300 miles doesn't necessarily mean you're ready to bike 76 miles. When I saw Frodo pull up to Quincy-La Porte Road I was overjoyed. Then I got on the bike and blasted down the hill. At some point - probably when I reached speeds of 30 mph or more - I started to think, "This bike is going really f-ing fast."
Once we hit the few uphill sections I thought, "Crap, this may be harder than I thought."
We got down to Quincy in less than two hours and cleaned up at our motel. We decided to go out to dinner and as we saddled up our bikes Adrian and I shared a knowing look. Our bums were already sore and tomorrow was gonna be a rough ride.
Dinner was amazing tonight. First we went to a little cafe for appetizers and then we went to Sweet Loraine's, where I had an amazing salad. I love the greens!
Miles: 32
Adrian:
So we wake up this morning not really knowing where we are and wondering how far it is to the Quincy-La Porte Road. We were up by 5:30 a.m. and hiking by 6:15. We hit the road about 3.5 hours after starting and washed up in the river a quarter of a mile west of the trail, at the roadside. As we waited for Chuck Norris to arrive to give us a ride to Quincy, Frodo shows up with two bikes!!
Yes indeed, we are going to Schwinn-blaze it. After loading some gear not needed for the 80-mile bike trip, stuff like the tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, etc., we mounted up and began a wicked descent of about 3,000 feet. I worried about the brakes as we taxed them to the limit to keep from careening off the road and over a 500-foot cliff. Upon completion of the downhill, we had another few miles of ups and downs till arriving in Quincy for the night.
We booked a room at the Gold Pan Inn, and went for dinner at Sweet Lorriane's, which was pretty good.
After dinner we went back to the room, watched Young Guns and Bowling for Columbine before going to sleep.
Tomorrow we continue to Chester, our longest stretch on the bike.
Kirsten:
Hiking 1,300 miles doesn't necessarily mean you're ready to bike 76 miles. When I saw Frodo pull up to Quincy-La Porte Road I was overjoyed. Then I got on the bike and blasted down the hill. At some point - probably when I reached speeds of 30 mph or more - I started to think, "This bike is going really f-ing fast."
Once we hit the few uphill sections I thought, "Crap, this may be harder than I thought."
We got down to Quincy in less than two hours and cleaned up at our motel. We decided to go out to dinner and as we saddled up our bikes Adrian and I shared a knowing look. Our bums were already sore and tomorrow was gonna be a rough ride.
Dinner was amazing tonight. First we went to a little cafe for appetizers and then we went to Sweet Loraine's, where I had an amazing salad. I love the greens!
July 20, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Just before Johnsonville-Gibsonville Road
Miles: 29.5
Adrian:
A record mile day. If you add our 2-mile road walk from the campground to the trail, we hiked more than 31 miles. It's not like it was easy terrain either as we had a big 2,850-foot climb right off the bat. The climb brought us high on the slopes of Sierra Buttes just 1,400 feet shy of the summit with its fire lookout. The terrain continued to roll up and down all day. We leap-frogged Cache and Chris over and again as they continued their speed hiking and numerous rest stops.
Wanting to get within 10 miles of the Quincy-La Porte Road, we were shooting for a water source with campsites nearby. We ate dinner early with Cache and Chris, around 7:30 p.m., and continued to hike the what was supposed to be a few miles to the planned site. It got dark, and even though we had our headlamps on high, we still missed the water source and campsite. Instead, we hiked until about 11 p.m. when we found the first flat spot in about 3 hours. Surprisingly enough, Cache and Chris had arrived minutes before.
They say that some people have greatness thrust upon them...if a 32-mile day is great, it surely was thrust upon us. We'll take it either way.
Kirsten:
I spent a large portion of today's hike thinking about our potential Schwinn blaze. Will the bikes be there? What if they're not there? Do we take the bus? Or what about a roadwalk?
Of course Cache and Chris provided endless entertainment for me with their slingshot practice and constant battle to drop more pack weight. Cache has food, water, first-aid and the clothes on his back. I'm being serious here. This morning I watched him roll out of his sleeping bag with his shirt and shorts on, throw on a jacket and start packing up his bag.
So today ended up being a record day and I was pleasantly surprised how well my feet held up. I've had some trouble with them lately, mostly tenderness and stiffness.
Miles: 29.5
Adrian:
A record mile day. If you add our 2-mile road walk from the campground to the trail, we hiked more than 31 miles. It's not like it was easy terrain either as we had a big 2,850-foot climb right off the bat. The climb brought us high on the slopes of Sierra Buttes just 1,400 feet shy of the summit with its fire lookout. The terrain continued to roll up and down all day. We leap-frogged Cache and Chris over and again as they continued their speed hiking and numerous rest stops.
Wanting to get within 10 miles of the Quincy-La Porte Road, we were shooting for a water source with campsites nearby. We ate dinner early with Cache and Chris, around 7:30 p.m., and continued to hike the what was supposed to be a few miles to the planned site. It got dark, and even though we had our headlamps on high, we still missed the water source and campsite. Instead, we hiked until about 11 p.m. when we found the first flat spot in about 3 hours. Surprisingly enough, Cache and Chris had arrived minutes before.
They say that some people have greatness thrust upon them...if a 32-mile day is great, it surely was thrust upon us. We'll take it either way.
Kirsten:
I spent a large portion of today's hike thinking about our potential Schwinn blaze. Will the bikes be there? What if they're not there? Do we take the bus? Or what about a roadwalk?
Of course Cache and Chris provided endless entertainment for me with their slingshot practice and constant battle to drop more pack weight. Cache has food, water, first-aid and the clothes on his back. I'm being serious here. This morning I watched him roll out of his sleeping bag with his shirt and shorts on, throw on a jacket and start packing up his bag.
So today ended up being a record day and I was pleasantly surprised how well my feet held up. I've had some trouble with them lately, mostly tenderness and stiffness.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
July 19, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Wild Plum Campground, Sierra City
Miles: 0
Adrian:
We took a zero day because the bikes would not be ready until tomorrow and if for some reason the bikes did not work out, the bus from Quincy to Chester does not run again until Monday (tomorrow).
Today was fun. We went for breaky and I had a nice large stack of pancakes topped with fresh strawberries. After resupplying and hanging out at the Country Store for a while, we got a ride from Tigger and Chuck to a swimming hole on the Yuba River. There we hung out with Johnny Cache and Chris enjoying a swim and some cliff jumps.
We bought tickets to a Bluegrass concert at a local gold mining museum called the Kentucky Mine. The band was named Past Due and Playable. Nothing special, a bit too pricey but a nice venue and mellow night with Chuck, Tigger, Paranoia, Accent and Ridgewalker.
Tomorrow we leave early for a big day to get close enough to Quincy to make it the day after before 10 a.m. Cache and Chris will join us loosely.
Kirsten hopes the bikes will be ready and I secretly hope maybe we can take the bus instead. I hate to admit it but I feel a bit lazy and don't really want to ride the miles. I know it's the right thing to do, to walk or ride the road detour, but sometimes it's just easier to follow the masses. Good thing Kirsten is around to keep me on the straight and narrow.
We'll see how this plays out.
Kirsten:
For all of those grammar nuts out there, I realize reading our journal is frustrating. Our entries are practically dripping with improper punctuation and spelling errors. It doesn't help that we occasionally drop random made up words like "breaky" in our entries (note Adrian's above). Breaky means breakfast, by the way.
OK, moving on. I forgot to mention we met up with Emily's dad yesterday. We saw him for the first time in weeks about two days south of Echo Lake and then again in Sierra City. Many of our readers have asked us about him. He has a journal on trailjournals.com and I encourage people to read his entries.
Emily's dad seems to be doing well. I wish he would put some weight on though. Emily's dad left moments after we saw him in Sierra City so I'm not sure if we'll bump into him again.
Some more hikers arrived today including the Three Amigos, Mrs. Potato Head, Lil' Wrangler and Circle. The group of PCTers we'll be hiking with over the next week or so are all people I enjoy being around. It would be even better if we could catch up to some of our friends up ahead.
I love the solitude Adrian and I have on the trail. It's also a huge boost when part of the day is spent with funny, lighthearted folks. The trail always flies by on the days we hike with our favorite PCTers.
Miles: 0
Adrian:
We took a zero day because the bikes would not be ready until tomorrow and if for some reason the bikes did not work out, the bus from Quincy to Chester does not run again until Monday (tomorrow).
Today was fun. We went for breaky and I had a nice large stack of pancakes topped with fresh strawberries. After resupplying and hanging out at the Country Store for a while, we got a ride from Tigger and Chuck to a swimming hole on the Yuba River. There we hung out with Johnny Cache and Chris enjoying a swim and some cliff jumps.
We bought tickets to a Bluegrass concert at a local gold mining museum called the Kentucky Mine. The band was named Past Due and Playable. Nothing special, a bit too pricey but a nice venue and mellow night with Chuck, Tigger, Paranoia, Accent and Ridgewalker.
Tomorrow we leave early for a big day to get close enough to Quincy to make it the day after before 10 a.m. Cache and Chris will join us loosely.
Kirsten hopes the bikes will be ready and I secretly hope maybe we can take the bus instead. I hate to admit it but I feel a bit lazy and don't really want to ride the miles. I know it's the right thing to do, to walk or ride the road detour, but sometimes it's just easier to follow the masses. Good thing Kirsten is around to keep me on the straight and narrow.
We'll see how this plays out.
Kirsten:
For all of those grammar nuts out there, I realize reading our journal is frustrating. Our entries are practically dripping with improper punctuation and spelling errors. It doesn't help that we occasionally drop random made up words like "breaky" in our entries (note Adrian's above). Breaky means breakfast, by the way.
OK, moving on. I forgot to mention we met up with Emily's dad yesterday. We saw him for the first time in weeks about two days south of Echo Lake and then again in Sierra City. Many of our readers have asked us about him. He has a journal on trailjournals.com and I encourage people to read his entries.
Emily's dad seems to be doing well. I wish he would put some weight on though. Emily's dad left moments after we saw him in Sierra City so I'm not sure if we'll bump into him again.
Some more hikers arrived today including the Three Amigos, Mrs. Potato Head, Lil' Wrangler and Circle. The group of PCTers we'll be hiking with over the next week or so are all people I enjoy being around. It would be even better if we could catch up to some of our friends up ahead.
I love the solitude Adrian and I have on the trail. It's also a huge boost when part of the day is spent with funny, lighthearted folks. The trail always flies by on the days we hike with our favorite PCTers.
July 18, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Wild Plum Campground, Sierra City
Miles: 16
Adrian:
So here's the fire deal. The trail is closed from the Quincy-La Porte Road north to Highway 36 just west of Chester. This amounts to around 100 trail miles. Most hikers are catching a ride from Sierra City to Chester, skipping a 38-mile section of the open PCT, and more than 100 miles of closed trail. Ridiculously, some hikers are even hitching from South Lake Tahoe to Quincy, skipping even more open trail miles. The group of two speed record seekers have ignored the closure. A few hardy souls are road walking about 84 miles to assure a continuous hike...a noble cause.
A group of two hikers, with the help of previous PCT thru-hiker Frodo, have decided to ride bikes around the closure. These two enterprising hikers are Cuddles and Moonpie.
Liking the idea, Kirsten worked hard to contact Frodo and organize the bikes for our use after Moonpie and Cuddles finished with them. Against all odds it appears, Frodo and Kirsten managed to git'r'dun. We may have bikes waiting for us in or around Quincy! Thanks Frodo!!
As we emerged from the trail and hit the 1.5-mile road walk to Sierra City we were pleasantly surprised to see Chuck Norris across the street dropping off Low Bridge at the trail northbound. We caught a ride to town and since all motels were fully booked, we slept at the local campground. I'm glad we did, as it was much fun hanging out with other hikers.
Sierra City is a nice town with a rich gold mining history. Good times were had by all.
Kirsten:
I was thinking how great it would be to get a trail magic ride into town. And then as I rounded the corner Chuck Norris was standing near the trailhead. I'm always ready to do the roadwalks into town. Rides into town are just a bonus.
In the first month of this trip I would've been disappointed to roll into a town and find every motel booked out. These days - and y'all probably won't believe this - I find my z-rest more comfortable than most motel/hotel beds.
Sierra City is my type of town - one road, a couple of restaurants, a saloon, a damn good swimming hole and a general store with the best stoop on the block. I tend to prefer these towns because they're uncomplicated and people in places like this generally seem to come equipped with a friendly quirkiness Garrison Keilor would appreciate.
A word about the fire. I'm not roadwalking so I really can't say jack shit. But I will because I'm mouthy. I think there is a lot of misinformation out there about the closure and the ease or difficulty of hitching from places like Sierra City or Quincy-La Porte Road. It's easy to be swayed by people's opinions especially if you think they know what they're talking about. It's happened to me and I've seen it in action with others as well. I've also seen how a group of hikers can shape the choices of others in good and bad ways. It just depends on whom you're hanging out with at the time and what mood is drifting amongst the group. With those caveats laid out before you, I'll say this: It's the unplanned bumps in the road and how you handle them that define your adventure and character. Sometimes we rise to the occasion, take the tougher path and are rewarded for it. Other times we do what seems right at the time and get punished. And just because I make the right decision today, doesn't mean I won't screw it all up making a horrible choice tomorrow. So, all I can do is focus on my choices. And today my choice is to hike to the official closure, bike through the closed section and start hiking where the trail resumes.
Miles: 16
Adrian:
So here's the fire deal. The trail is closed from the Quincy-La Porte Road north to Highway 36 just west of Chester. This amounts to around 100 trail miles. Most hikers are catching a ride from Sierra City to Chester, skipping a 38-mile section of the open PCT, and more than 100 miles of closed trail. Ridiculously, some hikers are even hitching from South Lake Tahoe to Quincy, skipping even more open trail miles. The group of two speed record seekers have ignored the closure. A few hardy souls are road walking about 84 miles to assure a continuous hike...a noble cause.
A group of two hikers, with the help of previous PCT thru-hiker Frodo, have decided to ride bikes around the closure. These two enterprising hikers are Cuddles and Moonpie.
Liking the idea, Kirsten worked hard to contact Frodo and organize the bikes for our use after Moonpie and Cuddles finished with them. Against all odds it appears, Frodo and Kirsten managed to git'r'dun. We may have bikes waiting for us in or around Quincy! Thanks Frodo!!
As we emerged from the trail and hit the 1.5-mile road walk to Sierra City we were pleasantly surprised to see Chuck Norris across the street dropping off Low Bridge at the trail northbound. We caught a ride to town and since all motels were fully booked, we slept at the local campground. I'm glad we did, as it was much fun hanging out with other hikers.
Sierra City is a nice town with a rich gold mining history. Good times were had by all.
Kirsten:
I was thinking how great it would be to get a trail magic ride into town. And then as I rounded the corner Chuck Norris was standing near the trailhead. I'm always ready to do the roadwalks into town. Rides into town are just a bonus.
In the first month of this trip I would've been disappointed to roll into a town and find every motel booked out. These days - and y'all probably won't believe this - I find my z-rest more comfortable than most motel/hotel beds.
Sierra City is my type of town - one road, a couple of restaurants, a saloon, a damn good swimming hole and a general store with the best stoop on the block. I tend to prefer these towns because they're uncomplicated and people in places like this generally seem to come equipped with a friendly quirkiness Garrison Keilor would appreciate.
A word about the fire. I'm not roadwalking so I really can't say jack shit. But I will because I'm mouthy. I think there is a lot of misinformation out there about the closure and the ease or difficulty of hitching from places like Sierra City or Quincy-La Porte Road. It's easy to be swayed by people's opinions especially if you think they know what they're talking about. It's happened to me and I've seen it in action with others as well. I've also seen how a group of hikers can shape the choices of others in good and bad ways. It just depends on whom you're hanging out with at the time and what mood is drifting amongst the group. With those caveats laid out before you, I'll say this: It's the unplanned bumps in the road and how you handle them that define your adventure and character. Sometimes we rise to the occasion, take the tougher path and are rewarded for it. Other times we do what seems right at the time and get punished. And just because I make the right decision today, doesn't mean I won't screw it all up making a horrible choice tomorrow. So, all I can do is focus on my choices. And today my choice is to hike to the official closure, bike through the closed section and start hiking where the trail resumes.
July 17, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Close to an unnamed creek
Miles: 28
Adrian:
We ran into Beautiful and Gorgeous at the Peter Grubb hut; another fine example of a Sierra Club ski hut. Also there were Johnny Cache and Chris.
We hiked with the girls through awesome fields of Mule Ear flowers on the top of hills and ridges. The trail stayed high on the Crest and afforded great views of hills and forests.
We pushed the miles for no particular reason other than just for pure pleasure. Tramping along until just before dark we were treated to a sublime sunset as we hiked. We found a nice stream and campsite for 4, cooked dinner and crashed.
A fun and productive day.
Kirsten:
Since we've written about Simon/Johnny Cache/Mr. Clean and Chris I should probably describe them a bit for you. I love these guys because they are unabashed-always-at-full-tilt boys. Both 19 years old, these two Massachusetts kids grew up together. Simon's the chatty one and Chris is quiet, although I can tell there's a wicked sense of humor buried beneath his stoic demeanor. Their exuberance is catching. They hike fast, yet take breaks about every 20 minutes to work on their slingshot skills, admire the scenery or explore some random site along the trail. It's as if Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn with a little taste of Dazed and Confused are hiking the PCT.
We reunited unexpectedly with Beautiful and Gorgeous, who are probably (and I've said this before) my favorite people on the trail. Beautiful is tiny, but mighty, as my grandmother would've said. She's funny and may be the boldest person I've ever met. Gorgeous has a certain determination about her. She's not a braggart or flashy. Without saying much you get the sense she's capable of just about anything. Plus, these two girls are sweet - always offering me tea and treats.
Tonight after dinner Beautiful read a chapter from Goldfinger - the golf scene where James Bond challenges the evildoer to a game. It was a nice treat for me since the only reading material I have out here is the pages from the guidebook.
Miles: 28
Adrian:
We ran into Beautiful and Gorgeous at the Peter Grubb hut; another fine example of a Sierra Club ski hut. Also there were Johnny Cache and Chris.
We hiked with the girls through awesome fields of Mule Ear flowers on the top of hills and ridges. The trail stayed high on the Crest and afforded great views of hills and forests.
We pushed the miles for no particular reason other than just for pure pleasure. Tramping along until just before dark we were treated to a sublime sunset as we hiked. We found a nice stream and campsite for 4, cooked dinner and crashed.
A fun and productive day.
Kirsten:
Since we've written about Simon/Johnny Cache/Mr. Clean and Chris I should probably describe them a bit for you. I love these guys because they are unabashed-always-at-full-tilt boys. Both 19 years old, these two Massachusetts kids grew up together. Simon's the chatty one and Chris is quiet, although I can tell there's a wicked sense of humor buried beneath his stoic demeanor. Their exuberance is catching. They hike fast, yet take breaks about every 20 minutes to work on their slingshot skills, admire the scenery or explore some random site along the trail. It's as if Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn with a little taste of Dazed and Confused are hiking the PCT.
We reunited unexpectedly with Beautiful and Gorgeous, who are probably (and I've said this before) my favorite people on the trail. Beautiful is tiny, but mighty, as my grandmother would've said. She's funny and may be the boldest person I've ever met. Gorgeous has a certain determination about her. She's not a braggart or flashy. Without saying much you get the sense she's capable of just about anything. Plus, these two girls are sweet - always offering me tea and treats.
Tonight after dinner Beautiful read a chapter from Goldfinger - the golf scene where James Bond challenges the evildoer to a game. It was a nice treat for me since the only reading material I have out here is the pages from the guidebook.
July 16, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Donner Lake
Miles: 5
Adrian:
We continued down the trail to the junction with Hwy 40 on the Donner Pass. This is where Billy and I rock climbed several fun routes about 4 years ago. The trail followed ski runs across the street from the Donner Ski Ranch until hitting the highway. We called Pooh's Corner, another trail angel in Northern California and waited for Lionheart to pick us up. He's getting off the trail due to injury and is doing some shuttle driving for the Persons (the trail angels) while waiting for his flight out on Friday. We got a ride to Billy's friends house on Donner Lake and went for Mexican food, resupplied at Safeway, went swimming in Donner Lake, and hung out at the house until it was time for sushi.
We all had a great time hiking and the Keyes did a fine job jumping into the PCT pace and mileage. Except for a blister, they finished the 61-mile section no worse for wear. Pretty much exactly how I thought it would play out. Like all new PCTers, they brought too much food, which is a good thing if you are not the one carrying it. This time it was toffee, peanut brittle and a wonderful concoction called Trinity. Great snacks that Saskia had a hand in procuring. Thanks Sas, and we're thinking of you. Good luck!
Kirsten:
You may have just finished reading yesterday's entry and are probably wondering why my section suddenly ends mid thought. Sometimes I write a little bit and then take a break before returning to it later. Well, I forgot so, sorry.
Back to today's entry. We rolled into Truckee by 10:30 a.m. and were at Bily's friends' house within a couple of hours. Our last day together was fun and relaxing - the perfect ending to our trip with the Keyes. I even learned something today: when you hike 1,100 miles, drop 15 pounds and rarely drink alcohol your tolerance drops. It drops significantly. So these days I'm a cheap date because I was loaded on 1.5 margaritas. I also learned that once properly pissed grocery shopping is generally a bad idea. I made some poor shopping choices. I have way too many snacks for our upcoming two-day hike to Sierra City, for example. And I've made some odd choices, as well. I grabbed a Snickers, for example. Not really a staple for me.
I think tomorrow will be much quieter without the Keyes around to make us laugh. Although anytime I need a chuckle I can always think about Billy dousing his face with whiskey.
Miles: 5
Adrian:
We continued down the trail to the junction with Hwy 40 on the Donner Pass. This is where Billy and I rock climbed several fun routes about 4 years ago. The trail followed ski runs across the street from the Donner Ski Ranch until hitting the highway. We called Pooh's Corner, another trail angel in Northern California and waited for Lionheart to pick us up. He's getting off the trail due to injury and is doing some shuttle driving for the Persons (the trail angels) while waiting for his flight out on Friday. We got a ride to Billy's friends house on Donner Lake and went for Mexican food, resupplied at Safeway, went swimming in Donner Lake, and hung out at the house until it was time for sushi.
We all had a great time hiking and the Keyes did a fine job jumping into the PCT pace and mileage. Except for a blister, they finished the 61-mile section no worse for wear. Pretty much exactly how I thought it would play out. Like all new PCTers, they brought too much food, which is a good thing if you are not the one carrying it. This time it was toffee, peanut brittle and a wonderful concoction called Trinity. Great snacks that Saskia had a hand in procuring. Thanks Sas, and we're thinking of you. Good luck!
Kirsten:
You may have just finished reading yesterday's entry and are probably wondering why my section suddenly ends mid thought. Sometimes I write a little bit and then take a break before returning to it later. Well, I forgot so, sorry.
Back to today's entry. We rolled into Truckee by 10:30 a.m. and were at Bily's friends' house within a couple of hours. Our last day together was fun and relaxing - the perfect ending to our trip with the Keyes. I even learned something today: when you hike 1,100 miles, drop 15 pounds and rarely drink alcohol your tolerance drops. It drops significantly. So these days I'm a cheap date because I was loaded on 1.5 margaritas. I also learned that once properly pissed grocery shopping is generally a bad idea. I made some poor shopping choices. I have way too many snacks for our upcoming two-day hike to Sierra City, for example. And I've made some odd choices, as well. I grabbed a Snickers, for example. Not really a staple for me.
I think tomorrow will be much quieter without the Keyes around to make us laugh. Although anytime I need a chuckle I can always think about Billy dousing his face with whiskey.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
July 15, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: John Benson Ski Hut
Miles: 19
Adrian:
The smoke has been become more noticeable today; blocking much of the long distance views and starting to smell a bit like a campfire. Rumors still persist about closures and if they are still in effect.
The Benson Hut is one of many great ski huts sponsored by the Sierra Club. We found an uneven, wooded campsite, which was quickly discarded after Kirsten's recon landed us just below the entrance to the hut. The privy near the hut is a two-story building that requires a nice little climb up a ladder to access.
We had a nice tonight of whiskey and will all sleep within a few yards of each other. This is what hiking the PCT is all about ... good friends, good weather, good privy, and good whiskey. This is how it works when you hike with the Keyes. These guys should really be thru-hiking right now, as they’d be a great addition to the group.
Life is good with Billy, Stephen and Kirsten. I feel so fortunate to be with these fine people.... an important part of my family. I hope you all feel the same way about the people close to you. It's a true blessing.
Kirsten:
Hold on a sec, I have to go hand Adrian a tissue. He gets a little sentimental from time to time.
Our hike today started out with a gradual descent along a ridge, which offered up beautiful views of Alpine Meadows ski resort.
Miles: 19
Adrian:
The smoke has been become more noticeable today; blocking much of the long distance views and starting to smell a bit like a campfire. Rumors still persist about closures and if they are still in effect.
The Benson Hut is one of many great ski huts sponsored by the Sierra Club. We found an uneven, wooded campsite, which was quickly discarded after Kirsten's recon landed us just below the entrance to the hut. The privy near the hut is a two-story building that requires a nice little climb up a ladder to access.
We had a nice tonight of whiskey and will all sleep within a few yards of each other. This is what hiking the PCT is all about ... good friends, good weather, good privy, and good whiskey. This is how it works when you hike with the Keyes. These guys should really be thru-hiking right now, as they’d be a great addition to the group.
Life is good with Billy, Stephen and Kirsten. I feel so fortunate to be with these fine people.... an important part of my family. I hope you all feel the same way about the people close to you. It's a true blessing.
Kirsten:
Hold on a sec, I have to go hand Adrian a tissue. He gets a little sentimental from time to time.
Our hike today started out with a gradual descent along a ridge, which offered up beautiful views of Alpine Meadows ski resort.
July 14, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: PCT-Tahoe Rim Trail Split
Miles: 17
Adrian:
I'm still a little suspicious about the Maker's reactivating deet, but if Billy says so, it must be. Seems to me it would be much better served in small glasses, but then again, I'm sleeping in a tent and he's out there with a headnet and sleeping bag. Anyway, half the whiskey is gone but Billy has not been eaten alive, so all is good (except that half the Maker's is gone).
Steve and Billy have many years of hiking and backpacking experience and it shows. Sure there are pains like blisters and sore muscles for these guys, but they are both holding out fine. These guys are so much fun to hike with it's laughs almost the whole way. Coupled with the fact they have to work real hard to keep up with us, all is very well.
We found a wonderful camp high on a ridge with White Pines for wind blockage and smoky horizons for scenery. Again, the smoke is not as bad as in SLT, but it does get worse at night. We are near the split of the Tahoe Rim and PCT. We've been sharing our tread for the last few days with Tahoe Rim trail, and it looks like a dry and hot trail...at least at this time in the year.
Walk good...
Kirsten:
Whiskey's not for drinking anymore. Billy - who slept without a tent among a million swarming mosquitoes - revealed a new use for whiskey. I'm not sure if this discovery was made as a last ditch effort last night to ward away the mosquitoes or if it had been tested before. That doesn't really matter. What does is whiskey's apparent ability to "reactivate" Deet, a powerful mosquito repellant that among other things melts plastic. So with this nugget of information at hand, what would you do to escape the mosquitoes in an effort to get a few hours of sleep? Why splash some on your face, of course. This morning when we woke up and found an empty flask of whiskey next to Billy's bag I assumed he drank it in a desperate attempt to get a little shut-eye. It turns out he just put some on his face to "reactivate" the Deet. He is adamant this method works. The rest of the whiskey disappeared when the open flask accidentally tipped over during the night. I haven't decided if I should believe this story.
Miles: 17
Adrian:
I'm still a little suspicious about the Maker's reactivating deet, but if Billy says so, it must be. Seems to me it would be much better served in small glasses, but then again, I'm sleeping in a tent and he's out there with a headnet and sleeping bag. Anyway, half the whiskey is gone but Billy has not been eaten alive, so all is good (except that half the Maker's is gone).
Steve and Billy have many years of hiking and backpacking experience and it shows. Sure there are pains like blisters and sore muscles for these guys, but they are both holding out fine. These guys are so much fun to hike with it's laughs almost the whole way. Coupled with the fact they have to work real hard to keep up with us, all is very well.
We found a wonderful camp high on a ridge with White Pines for wind blockage and smoky horizons for scenery. Again, the smoke is not as bad as in SLT, but it does get worse at night. We are near the split of the Tahoe Rim and PCT. We've been sharing our tread for the last few days with Tahoe Rim trail, and it looks like a dry and hot trail...at least at this time in the year.
Walk good...
Kirsten:
Whiskey's not for drinking anymore. Billy - who slept without a tent among a million swarming mosquitoes - revealed a new use for whiskey. I'm not sure if this discovery was made as a last ditch effort last night to ward away the mosquitoes or if it had been tested before. That doesn't really matter. What does is whiskey's apparent ability to "reactivate" Deet, a powerful mosquito repellant that among other things melts plastic. So with this nugget of information at hand, what would you do to escape the mosquitoes in an effort to get a few hours of sleep? Why splash some on your face, of course. This morning when we woke up and found an empty flask of whiskey next to Billy's bag I assumed he drank it in a desperate attempt to get a little shut-eye. It turns out he just put some on his face to "reactivate" the Deet. He is adamant this method works. The rest of the whiskey disappeared when the open flask accidentally tipped over during the night. I haven't decided if I should believe this story.
July 13, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Seasonal Phipps Creek
Miles: 20
Adrian:
Billy, Stephen, Kirsten and I went to the coffee shop to get some breakfast while we waited for Chuck Norris to pick us up. Chuck and Tigger are two hikers come trail angels who are helping PCTers get around the fires and deal with harder hitches. They are from Florida and their red minivan is already legendary amongst the PCT clan.
The hike started on Echo Lake and we passed some wonderful lake cabins on our way into the Desolation Wilderness, so named for the barren granite that exists everywhere. The multitude of lakes adds to the beauty (and adds mosquitoes).
We hiked together and talked about old times and new, family, and the future. These are my best friends and having them here for a 61-mile stretch is real pleasure. Thank you boys!
Tomorrow we continue through the Desolation Wilderness and head into the Granite Chief Wilderness. We are hiking just west of Lake Tahoe and catch a glimpse of it ever now and again. Smoke clouds the view but it's not so bad today. We hope our luck continues as California burns around us...
Kirsten:
Remember when I mentioned throwing a rock into our friends' packs? This will be totally unnecessary because I'm pretty sure there's a small person hidden in each of their bags. Or at least that's what it feels like.
Stephen has some whiskey and about 30 pounds of sweets including peanut brittle and toffee with him. Billy also packed in a flask of whiskey and a six-pound sleeping pad.
Chuck Norris and Tigger picked us up at our hotel and dropped us off at the trailhead. I'm pretty sure these thru-hiker/trail angels have carted around every PCTer on the trail this year. Their generosity and willingness to drive hikers seems to be limitless. And it's not like gas is $1 a gallon.
The four of us hiked at a decent clip throughout the day, stopping only for photos, snacks and the occasional rest of the feet. As I mentioned before, these guys are in good shape so we've been able to maintain our pace. If they have any problems over the next few days I expect it will be related to their packs or feet.
Our campsite tonight is less than perfect. It's inundated with mosquitoes and doesn't have a view. I was hoping to produce some magnificent campsite equipped with water, a view and sans mosquitoes. Instead, we're scattered about some granite rocks about a quarter mile from a muddy, sluggish stream.
We have to find a better spot tomorrow if only to provide Billy with a few hours sleep. Stephen brought a bug bivy. Billy did not. And right now as I climb into my mosquito-free zone, I'm thinking about Billy sleeping in his bag with only a headnet for protection. Sleep well, my friend.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
Billy, Stephen, Kirsten and I went to the coffee shop to get some breakfast while we waited for Chuck Norris to pick us up. Chuck and Tigger are two hikers come trail angels who are helping PCTers get around the fires and deal with harder hitches. They are from Florida and their red minivan is already legendary amongst the PCT clan.
The hike started on Echo Lake and we passed some wonderful lake cabins on our way into the Desolation Wilderness, so named for the barren granite that exists everywhere. The multitude of lakes adds to the beauty (and adds mosquitoes).
We hiked together and talked about old times and new, family, and the future. These are my best friends and having them here for a 61-mile stretch is real pleasure. Thank you boys!
Tomorrow we continue through the Desolation Wilderness and head into the Granite Chief Wilderness. We are hiking just west of Lake Tahoe and catch a glimpse of it ever now and again. Smoke clouds the view but it's not so bad today. We hope our luck continues as California burns around us...
Kirsten:
Remember when I mentioned throwing a rock into our friends' packs? This will be totally unnecessary because I'm pretty sure there's a small person hidden in each of their bags. Or at least that's what it feels like.
Stephen has some whiskey and about 30 pounds of sweets including peanut brittle and toffee with him. Billy also packed in a flask of whiskey and a six-pound sleeping pad.
Chuck Norris and Tigger picked us up at our hotel and dropped us off at the trailhead. I'm pretty sure these thru-hiker/trail angels have carted around every PCTer on the trail this year. Their generosity and willingness to drive hikers seems to be limitless. And it's not like gas is $1 a gallon.
The four of us hiked at a decent clip throughout the day, stopping only for photos, snacks and the occasional rest of the feet. As I mentioned before, these guys are in good shape so we've been able to maintain our pace. If they have any problems over the next few days I expect it will be related to their packs or feet.
Our campsite tonight is less than perfect. It's inundated with mosquitoes and doesn't have a view. I was hoping to produce some magnificent campsite equipped with water, a view and sans mosquitoes. Instead, we're scattered about some granite rocks about a quarter mile from a muddy, sluggish stream.
We have to find a better spot tomorrow if only to provide Billy with a few hours sleep. Stephen brought a bug bivy. Billy did not. And right now as I climb into my mosquito-free zone, I'm thinking about Billy sleeping in his bag with only a headnet for protection. Sleep well, my friend.
July 12, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: SLT
Miles: 0
Adrian:
Good news! I was able to send home some things in my pack that I won't be needing anymore now that we are out of the high Sierra. The list includes the bear canister, fishing pole, ice axe and down jacket. This amounts to nearly 4 pounds of gear and I couldn't be happier to get rid of it. Hiking will be much more enjoyable without the weight. As a bonus, because of the reduced burden I'm able to remove the aluminum stays in my pack, further reducing weight.
Kirsten:
Another zero day. I think we've officially surpassed the acceptable number of zero days for a thru-hiker.
We did get a lot done today so it wasn't a total loss. We spent money in an effort to inject cash into the economy, for example. I chopped about six inches of hair off. That's got to be a couple of ounces of weight right there. Oh yeah, and our good friends Stephen and Billy came into town.
I'm really looking forward to putting these guys through a little trail punishment. Nothing harsh or mean-spirited, of course. Just a little PCT initiation. Maybe a rock in the pack or a potted meat sandwich for lunch. These guys are already in good shape so their adjustment to trail should be pretty easy.
Miles: 0
Adrian:
Good news! I was able to send home some things in my pack that I won't be needing anymore now that we are out of the high Sierra. The list includes the bear canister, fishing pole, ice axe and down jacket. This amounts to nearly 4 pounds of gear and I couldn't be happier to get rid of it. Hiking will be much more enjoyable without the weight. As a bonus, because of the reduced burden I'm able to remove the aluminum stays in my pack, further reducing weight.
Kirsten:
Another zero day. I think we've officially surpassed the acceptable number of zero days for a thru-hiker.
We did get a lot done today so it wasn't a total loss. We spent money in an effort to inject cash into the economy, for example. I chopped about six inches of hair off. That's got to be a couple of ounces of weight right there. Oh yeah, and our good friends Stephen and Billy came into town.
I'm really looking forward to putting these guys through a little trail punishment. Nothing harsh or mean-spirited, of course. Just a little PCT initiation. Maybe a rock in the pack or a potted meat sandwich for lunch. These guys are already in good shape so their adjustment to trail should be pretty easy.
July 11, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: SLT
Miles: 0
Adrian:
Chore and zero day today. We hit the Carrows Restaurant, post office, coffee shop, hardware store and grocery store today. The bus system is not as fast as I'd hoped although it is effective.
Kirsten: I'm alive and well - just in case you're wondering. Adrian was a little too anxious with the journal and sent out a bunch of entries before I had a chance to write down any of my inspirational thoughts.
I tend to get a bit behind with the journal from time to time. OK, all the time. I seem lose motivation after hiking a 25-mile day, cooking dinner and settling into my sleeping bag. Not that I'm making any excuses.
So, what did I miss? Well, we've been hiking a lot. And there were mosquitoes. We met and hiked with Moonpie and Cuddles, some great PCTers. The trail's terrain is beginning to ease and I'm looking forward to pushing up our mileage.
So here's to all that's happened and my newfound commitment to keeping up with the journal.
Miles: 0
Adrian:
Chore and zero day today. We hit the Carrows Restaurant, post office, coffee shop, hardware store and grocery store today. The bus system is not as fast as I'd hoped although it is effective.
Kirsten: I'm alive and well - just in case you're wondering. Adrian was a little too anxious with the journal and sent out a bunch of entries before I had a chance to write down any of my inspirational thoughts.
I tend to get a bit behind with the journal from time to time. OK, all the time. I seem lose motivation after hiking a 25-mile day, cooking dinner and settling into my sleeping bag. Not that I'm making any excuses.
So, what did I miss? Well, we've been hiking a lot. And there were mosquitoes. We met and hiked with Moonpie and Cuddles, some great PCTers. The trail's terrain is beginning to ease and I'm looking forward to pushing up our mileage.
So here's to all that's happened and my newfound commitment to keeping up with the journal.
July 10, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: South Lake Tahoe
Miles: 19
Adrian:
We hiked 19 miles by 1:30 p.m. today, making it to the post office at Echo Lake in time to pick-up a care package there before the 2 p.m. closing time. Moonpie and Cuddles also made it in time. Moonpie received a few hundred Moonpies from the manufacturer who sponsors her. She shared with all the hikers gathered around the resort, which numbered around 20.
Echo Lake Resort is a fishing store/post office located up a hill from South Lake Tahoe. We had some milkshakes and a deli sandwich while organizing a ride to South Lake Tahoe. Really good shakes! David, a long time veteran of the trail, his wife and daughter gave us a ride to the Traveler's Inn, where Stephen had made reservations for us for Saturday. We added a couple nights to that reservation and checked in.
There are a few reasons South Lake Tahoe (SLT) is important to through-hikers and I'll try to outline them here in no particular order. SLT is a major town with many services that we won't see again for some 600 miles in Ashland, Oregon. We won't see the variety of restaurants, outfitters, physicians, hotels, and grocery stores to name a few. We also have completed the high Sierra stretch so we can send home a warm clothing article, ice axe, bear canister, fishing pole, and even rain pants (though we'll keep ours until we reach our bounce bucket in Sierra City). That is a total weight of around 4 pounds! A monumental amount of weight for a hiker. Then there are the all-you-eat buffets that are legendary in PCT circles. We ate at one tonight with about 12 other hikers at the Horizon Casino. It cost $11 per person, a good deal, but since I lost $60 at the craps table after diner, the casino's business plan worked like a charm on me...oh well. Lastly, because we won't be going!
Through many towns for most of the rest of the hike, this is the last place we can really splurge a bit. We'll be spending less money in the coming months; so a little blowout is called for :)
Miles: 19
Adrian:
We hiked 19 miles by 1:30 p.m. today, making it to the post office at Echo Lake in time to pick-up a care package there before the 2 p.m. closing time. Moonpie and Cuddles also made it in time. Moonpie received a few hundred Moonpies from the manufacturer who sponsors her. She shared with all the hikers gathered around the resort, which numbered around 20.
Echo Lake Resort is a fishing store/post office located up a hill from South Lake Tahoe. We had some milkshakes and a deli sandwich while organizing a ride to South Lake Tahoe. Really good shakes! David, a long time veteran of the trail, his wife and daughter gave us a ride to the Traveler's Inn, where Stephen had made reservations for us for Saturday. We added a couple nights to that reservation and checked in.
There are a few reasons South Lake Tahoe (SLT) is important to through-hikers and I'll try to outline them here in no particular order. SLT is a major town with many services that we won't see again for some 600 miles in Ashland, Oregon. We won't see the variety of restaurants, outfitters, physicians, hotels, and grocery stores to name a few. We also have completed the high Sierra stretch so we can send home a warm clothing article, ice axe, bear canister, fishing pole, and even rain pants (though we'll keep ours until we reach our bounce bucket in Sierra City). That is a total weight of around 4 pounds! A monumental amount of weight for a hiker. Then there are the all-you-eat buffets that are legendary in PCT circles. We ate at one tonight with about 12 other hikers at the Horizon Casino. It cost $11 per person, a good deal, but since I lost $60 at the craps table after diner, the casino's business plan worked like a charm on me...oh well. Lastly, because we won't be going!
Through many towns for most of the rest of the hike, this is the last place we can really splurge a bit. We'll be spending less money in the coming months; so a little blowout is called for :)
July 09, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Before Elephant's Back
Miles: 27
Adrian:
I was hiking with Low Bridge tonight at dusk and looking around for a campsite. We had been around treeline for some time and the wind was too strong for our tent here. It was getting dark and we had walked more than 26 miles already.
The last few days we've been revving the engines, building a higher mileage base for days ahead when we will up our daily miles. It takes time to develop the stamina to add just 10% of miles per day on a consistent basis. Our plan is to cruise a nice average of 20 miles per day for the 3 days Steve and Billy will be hiking with us and then start trying to average 25+ mile days from there on.
Since Sonora Pass, the tread has been a bit softer and less rocky making it much easier to walk and less painful. On rocky trails, the sole of our feet get pounded and joints punished. The trail also has an easier grade now; making climbs much easier and less exhausting. Don't get me wrong; it is still rolling with many ups and downs, its just a bit more user friendly.
Miles: 27
Adrian:
I was hiking with Low Bridge tonight at dusk and looking around for a campsite. We had been around treeline for some time and the wind was too strong for our tent here. It was getting dark and we had walked more than 26 miles already.
The last few days we've been revving the engines, building a higher mileage base for days ahead when we will up our daily miles. It takes time to develop the stamina to add just 10% of miles per day on a consistent basis. Our plan is to cruise a nice average of 20 miles per day for the 3 days Steve and Billy will be hiking with us and then start trying to average 25+ mile days from there on.
Since Sonora Pass, the tread has been a bit softer and less rocky making it much easier to walk and less painful. On rocky trails, the sole of our feet get pounded and joints punished. The trail also has an easier grade now; making climbs much easier and less exhausting. Don't get me wrong; it is still rolling with many ups and downs, its just a bit more user friendly.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
July 08, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Near Highway 4, Ebbits Pass
Miles: 24
Adrian:
We saw our first wild bear this afternoon. He was a small one and somewhat curious. I spotted him when he was moving uphill about 40 yards away. He saw us and stared, never running away nor coming towards us. We watched for a minute and then kept walking.
The past couple days we've been in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. For a very small amount of time, we were also in the Emigrant Wilderness. These tracts of land are protected from all motor vehicles and stock, except for pack animals. The crowds in these areas are much less dense as in the parks to the south, and the scenery just as impressive.
The snow on all the passes around here has mostly melted off, making crossings much easier and faster. Our ice axes are just dead weight in our packs. I'm glad we brought them eve though they were never used. We'll send them home from South Lake Tahoe, along with our bear canisters and fishing gear.
Moonpie is camped with us again and we saw Emily's Dad again. He got ahead of us and then took a couple weeks off to go home. It's great o see him again and to know he's still truckin' on.
Kirsten got a bit upset today when she couldn't tell exactly where we were in the data book. You see, it's a big thing for her to know how many miles we've come and how many more we need to go. When this isn't happening, she gets a bit unnerved. She says she's working on it :)
Miles: 24
Adrian:
We saw our first wild bear this afternoon. He was a small one and somewhat curious. I spotted him when he was moving uphill about 40 yards away. He saw us and stared, never running away nor coming towards us. We watched for a minute and then kept walking.
The past couple days we've been in the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. For a very small amount of time, we were also in the Emigrant Wilderness. These tracts of land are protected from all motor vehicles and stock, except for pack animals. The crowds in these areas are much less dense as in the parks to the south, and the scenery just as impressive.
The snow on all the passes around here has mostly melted off, making crossings much easier and faster. Our ice axes are just dead weight in our packs. I'm glad we brought them eve though they were never used. We'll send them home from South Lake Tahoe, along with our bear canisters and fishing gear.
Moonpie is camped with us again and we saw Emily's Dad again. He got ahead of us and then took a couple weeks off to go home. It's great o see him again and to know he's still truckin' on.
Kirsten got a bit upset today when she couldn't tell exactly where we were in the data book. You see, it's a big thing for her to know how many miles we've come and how many more we need to go. When this isn't happening, she gets a bit unnerved. She says she's working on it :)
July 07, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Carson River
Miles: 25
Adrian:
We woke up at 5:30 a.m. thinking we could avoid the mosquitoes early, you know, before they woke up. The swarm outside the screen told us they do not sleep in. So we packed up all we could inside the tent and then made a run for it, skipping breakfast because it just wasn't worth it.
We made the transition from granitic rock to volcanic. Gone is the granite and with it a large part of the mosquito problem. You see, granite is not porous and therefore water sits on top of it, while volcanic rock is porous and is virtually pond free. Mosquitoes need water to breed, so no water, no skeeters.
Today we climbed up to a wonderful ridge, above treeline, that afforded us great views of the high Sierra and areas north. The weather was perfect!
We also made it past Sonora Pass, highway 108, the symbolic end of the "high Sierra". It's all about that granite versus volcanic thing I wrote of earlier. We ran into a llama train of 4 animals with two hikers. I was amazed how docile and patient these guys are. Each can carry up to 75 pounds, so camping can be done in style with these creatures. In fact, this guy rents his out to hikers for just that use. Sounds like fun.
We made good timing today and rounded it out hiking with Moonpie and just a bit with Cuddles. We are not sure exactly where we are camped, but as long as we on the PCT, it doesn't really matter.
Good miles today, good scenery, and good new friends. Good day...
Miles: 25
Adrian:
We woke up at 5:30 a.m. thinking we could avoid the mosquitoes early, you know, before they woke up. The swarm outside the screen told us they do not sleep in. So we packed up all we could inside the tent and then made a run for it, skipping breakfast because it just wasn't worth it.
We made the transition from granitic rock to volcanic. Gone is the granite and with it a large part of the mosquito problem. You see, granite is not porous and therefore water sits on top of it, while volcanic rock is porous and is virtually pond free. Mosquitoes need water to breed, so no water, no skeeters.
Today we climbed up to a wonderful ridge, above treeline, that afforded us great views of the high Sierra and areas north. The weather was perfect!
We also made it past Sonora Pass, highway 108, the symbolic end of the "high Sierra". It's all about that granite versus volcanic thing I wrote of earlier. We ran into a llama train of 4 animals with two hikers. I was amazed how docile and patient these guys are. Each can carry up to 75 pounds, so camping can be done in style with these creatures. In fact, this guy rents his out to hikers for just that use. Sounds like fun.
We made good timing today and rounded it out hiking with Moonpie and just a bit with Cuddles. We are not sure exactly where we are camped, but as long as we on the PCT, it doesn't really matter.
Good miles today, good scenery, and good new friends. Good day...
July 06, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: West Walker River Trail
Miles: 20
Adrian:
Just a few minutes before camping, we hit the 1000-mile marker! We took a bit of time to hug and take pictures of the little mile marker made of small stones. It's been a remarkable trip so far with some of hardest, most demanding hiking and such beautiful landscape. From the desert to the mountains, the variety of ecosystems and geography have been more than I expected. I hope that the next 1000 miles are as good as the last.
Today was tiring and the miles came slow. I think section I may be one of the hardest.
We ran into Tattoo Joe and Scott Williamson this morning after our morning 1,000-foot climb. These guys are trying to beat the 79-day speed record Tattoo Joe holds. They are unsupported, which means no one can help them in any way. Amazing guys, really humble elite athletes.
The canyons are getting deeper and rockier. The soles of our feet are swollen and tender by the last few hours of the day as if they've been well beaten by a meat tenderizer.
The mosquitoes are hell right now.
This is tough work.
Kirsten:
I've been thinking a lot about volcanic rock these past few days. It's my happy thought.
I'm not a big geology buff and I normally don't spend my days thinking about rocks. But times have changed and now we're in mosquito country. So what does volcanic rock have to do with those little bloodsuckers? Everything.
You see, volcanic rock is porous. Porous rock doesn't hold water.
The trail over the past 400 miles or so has wound its way through the High Sierras, which is loaded to the hilt with granite. Granite - and I'm simplifying here - holds water. Where there's water there are mosquitoes. This leaves me daydreaming about volcanic rock, which we should reach in a couple of days.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
Just a few minutes before camping, we hit the 1000-mile marker! We took a bit of time to hug and take pictures of the little mile marker made of small stones. It's been a remarkable trip so far with some of hardest, most demanding hiking and such beautiful landscape. From the desert to the mountains, the variety of ecosystems and geography have been more than I expected. I hope that the next 1000 miles are as good as the last.
Today was tiring and the miles came slow. I think section I may be one of the hardest.
We ran into Tattoo Joe and Scott Williamson this morning after our morning 1,000-foot climb. These guys are trying to beat the 79-day speed record Tattoo Joe holds. They are unsupported, which means no one can help them in any way. Amazing guys, really humble elite athletes.
The canyons are getting deeper and rockier. The soles of our feet are swollen and tender by the last few hours of the day as if they've been well beaten by a meat tenderizer.
The mosquitoes are hell right now.
This is tough work.
Kirsten:
I've been thinking a lot about volcanic rock these past few days. It's my happy thought.
I'm not a big geology buff and I normally don't spend my days thinking about rocks. But times have changed and now we're in mosquito country. So what does volcanic rock have to do with those little bloodsuckers? Everything.
You see, volcanic rock is porous. Porous rock doesn't hold water.
The trail over the past 400 miles or so has wound its way through the High Sierras, which is loaded to the hilt with granite. Granite - and I'm simplifying here - holds water. Where there's water there are mosquitoes. This leaves me daydreaming about volcanic rock, which we should reach in a couple of days.
July 05, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Kerrick Canyon Creek
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We knew today would be hard and it was. For some reason Kirsten was a robot today hiking like the Terminator, which took serious effort to keep up with.
The day started with a 1,600-foot climb to Benson Pass, a nice warm up I thought. Then we were treated to a 2,600-foot descent into a beautiful canyon holding Benson Lake. There were some seriously steep switchbacks that made it quicker and more painful. Then back up again to Seavey Pass, featuring a 1,700-foot climb. The day ended with a 700 descent to what some call the toughest creek ford in the Sierra. It was easy for us because of a low late snowpack.
We've been seeing more deer lately in Yosemite, of the Mule variety. Many still have velvet on their antlers, a sign of spring. It's nice to have a little wildlife on the trail with us.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We knew today would be hard and it was. For some reason Kirsten was a robot today hiking like the Terminator, which took serious effort to keep up with.
The day started with a 1,600-foot climb to Benson Pass, a nice warm up I thought. Then we were treated to a 2,600-foot descent into a beautiful canyon holding Benson Lake. There were some seriously steep switchbacks that made it quicker and more painful. Then back up again to Seavey Pass, featuring a 1,700-foot climb. The day ended with a 700 descent to what some call the toughest creek ford in the Sierra. It was easy for us because of a low late snowpack.
We've been seeing more deer lately in Yosemite, of the Mule variety. Many still have velvet on their antlers, a sign of spring. It's nice to have a little wildlife on the trail with us.
July 04, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Above Matterhorn Creek
Miles: 19.3
Adrian: Happy Fourth of July Everyone!
We spent our day hiking north from Tuolumne Meadows, stopped at Soda spring for sparkling mineral water, up past the high sierra camp of Glen Aulin, up further a ways and then down into Virginia Canyon, back up to Miller Lake for dinner and then up to a forested pass above Matterhorn Creek.
Breakfast was at the Tuolumne grill and featured egg sandwiches and coffee mixed with hot cocoa. Dinner was a bad freeze dried curry from Backpacker's Pantry. Lunch was at a different forested gap and we had bagels with salami and cheese, a staple for us lately.
It was a bit cloudy today and threatened to rain but it never did. Tonight is not too cold, maybe 40 degrees and very still with a starry sky. We are stealth camped away from established sites to avoid bear encounters. It makes us a bit worried that all our food does not fit in the canisters and thusly we sleep with it in our tent. We fall asleep trying to think positive thoughts...
Kirsten:
Many hikers warned me that the trail north of Tuolumne is tough. Still, as the first few miles rolled by I naively thought to myself, "This is gonna be a piece of cake."
And then the trail got rockier. And steeper. The trail doesn't reach the same elevations as before. It does have the tendency to climb up rocky terrain for 1,500 feet then immediately drop as much or more into a canyon only to rise again. And then the cycle repeats itself.
Miles: 19.3
Adrian: Happy Fourth of July Everyone!
We spent our day hiking north from Tuolumne Meadows, stopped at Soda spring for sparkling mineral water, up past the high sierra camp of Glen Aulin, up further a ways and then down into Virginia Canyon, back up to Miller Lake for dinner and then up to a forested pass above Matterhorn Creek.
Breakfast was at the Tuolumne grill and featured egg sandwiches and coffee mixed with hot cocoa. Dinner was a bad freeze dried curry from Backpacker's Pantry. Lunch was at a different forested gap and we had bagels with salami and cheese, a staple for us lately.
It was a bit cloudy today and threatened to rain but it never did. Tonight is not too cold, maybe 40 degrees and very still with a starry sky. We are stealth camped away from established sites to avoid bear encounters. It makes us a bit worried that all our food does not fit in the canisters and thusly we sleep with it in our tent. We fall asleep trying to think positive thoughts...
Kirsten:
Many hikers warned me that the trail north of Tuolumne is tough. Still, as the first few miles rolled by I naively thought to myself, "This is gonna be a piece of cake."
And then the trail got rockier. And steeper. The trail doesn't reach the same elevations as before. It does have the tendency to climb up rocky terrain for 1,500 feet then immediately drop as much or more into a canyon only to rise again. And then the cycle repeats itself.
Friday, July 4, 2008
July 03, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Tuolumne Meadows Campground
Miles: 0
Adrian:
Thanks to everyone who signed our guestbook!! That includes Linda, Adrienne, Billy, Brian, and Christopher. It's good to see people are following our progress. Sometimes we need a bit of positive reinforcement when the trail is hard or we miss home. Thanks.
After a wonderful dinner at the Ahwahnee, Kirsten had sea scallops and I pork, we slept very well in the comfortable bed. I think this room may be the nicest we'll ever have on the trail.
We slept in, had breakfast and made the noon valley floor tour. We were driven from valley site to site in a jitney type truck. The tour was two hours and moderately informative. The sights were simply breathtaking.
Post tour, we hopped the shuttle to the grocery store and resupplied for the next 155 miles, which translates to 7 days food. Some of what I bought was granola, aged cheddar cheese, string cheese, dry salami, energy bars, stove top stuffing, veggie chili, pasta roni garlic and herb angel hair pasta, Mac 'n cheese, potato chips, saltines, dried mango, bagels, dried milk, animal crackers, tasty bite indian dinner, and a freeze dried dinner.
Last but not least, we found two bears that needed a home and sent them on their way to Delafield, Wisconsin to Sierra and Karina, who I know will take good care of them. Maybe the bears will arrive before Germany. Good luck bears!
Now we are on a bus to Tuolumne Meadows with a driver who likens himself to a drill sergeant in the Marine Corp. One thing is for sure; we'll arrive on time. We'll camp at the backpackers’ site tonight and set off in the morning (after breakfast sandwiches at the grill!).
Kirsten:
Remember Adrian's nerd factor? Good, then there should be no snickering about our two-hour open-air bus tour with a ranger. It also should not surprise you that after setting up our tent in the backpackers’ campground Adrian ran off to the fireside ranger talk. This time it was called "Mountain Time" and was all about thru-hiking the PCT.
These last two days have energized me for the trail ahead. Next stop, South Lake Tahoe and a rendezvous with the Keyser brothers, who promise to bring the funk back to the trail.
Miles: 0
Adrian:
Thanks to everyone who signed our guestbook!! That includes Linda, Adrienne, Billy, Brian, and Christopher. It's good to see people are following our progress. Sometimes we need a bit of positive reinforcement when the trail is hard or we miss home. Thanks.
After a wonderful dinner at the Ahwahnee, Kirsten had sea scallops and I pork, we slept very well in the comfortable bed. I think this room may be the nicest we'll ever have on the trail.
We slept in, had breakfast and made the noon valley floor tour. We were driven from valley site to site in a jitney type truck. The tour was two hours and moderately informative. The sights were simply breathtaking.
Post tour, we hopped the shuttle to the grocery store and resupplied for the next 155 miles, which translates to 7 days food. Some of what I bought was granola, aged cheddar cheese, string cheese, dry salami, energy bars, stove top stuffing, veggie chili, pasta roni garlic and herb angel hair pasta, Mac 'n cheese, potato chips, saltines, dried mango, bagels, dried milk, animal crackers, tasty bite indian dinner, and a freeze dried dinner.
Last but not least, we found two bears that needed a home and sent them on their way to Delafield, Wisconsin to Sierra and Karina, who I know will take good care of them. Maybe the bears will arrive before Germany. Good luck bears!
Now we are on a bus to Tuolumne Meadows with a driver who likens himself to a drill sergeant in the Marine Corp. One thing is for sure; we'll arrive on time. We'll camp at the backpackers’ site tonight and set off in the morning (after breakfast sandwiches at the grill!).
Kirsten:
Remember Adrian's nerd factor? Good, then there should be no snickering about our two-hour open-air bus tour with a ranger. It also should not surprise you that after setting up our tent in the backpackers’ campground Adrian ran off to the fireside ranger talk. This time it was called "Mountain Time" and was all about thru-hiking the PCT.
These last two days have energized me for the trail ahead. Next stop, South Lake Tahoe and a rendezvous with the Keyser brothers, who promise to bring the funk back to the trail.
July 02, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
dest: The Ahwahnee Hotel
miles: 0
Adrian:
Chalk up an 8-mile zero day for today.
The Ahwahnee Hotel is one of the grandest hotels in the National Park system. Some of these hotels include the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone (my favorite), and Many Glaciers in Glacier National Park. It was built in 1927 and has hosted guests such as JFK, Queen Elizabeth II, Lucille Ball, Herbert Hoover, Humphrey Bogart Laura Bush, Reagan, Churchill, Eisenhower, Robert Redford, who worked here before launching his acting career, and now Adrian and Kirsten. Our room faces Yosemite Falls and we can see Royal Arches. I can't think of a nicer place to stay as a splurge after finishing the John Muir Trail. This hotel was the brainchild of National Park Superintendant Mather, the one whom our most dangerous pass crossing was named after. It's funny that after fearing death on a pass named after him, we sit here sipping Tom Collins at the bar he created.
Our room wasn't ready when we checked in so we took a walk to Housekeeping Camp to do our laundry. We didn't WANT to do it, but my stuff was looking really hoboish, not to mention smelly like a can of DEET mosquito repellant. I wonder if that stuff works on bears, afterall, it does melt plastic, right?
While waiting for the washing machine, I took a swim in the Merced river, dodging the numerous rafters coming around the bend. I managed to get a bit sunburned in the process.
When we arrived back at the hotel the room was ready and it sure was nice. We're talking Ritz-Carlton level style, sheets and bathroom. On the way up to the room I made a dinner reservation at the hotel dining room. The dress code calls for buttoned shirt, check, slacks, check, and no athletic shoes, NOT check. I was going to have to wear my desert finest and do my best to hide the running shoes. Luckily, the shoes were overlooked and we had a great dinner.
What a nice day in Yosemite.
Kirsten:
Adrian failed to mention our climb up Half-Dome. You know, the highlight our entire day. Remember Adrian? I think the 1,000 sheet threadcount and featherbed has fogged his memory.
Last night we camped about 1.5 miles past the Half Dome junction, putting us within 200 yards of the rock stairs that mark the beginning. We woke up this morning before sunrise, loaded up one pack with water, snacks and a warmer layer and then hit the path to Half Dome.
From our tent it was tough to see where the trail goes - it just blends in perfectly with the massive granite block. Once you arrive to the base the trail magically reveals itslef like something out of Narnia. The steep trail traces its way up to the top, them descends to a saddle. From here hikers face the cables route, two steel cable connected to metal posts driven into the rock every 10 yards. A pile of gloves lay at the base of the solid granite route.
We reached the top - wow, my arms are weak - about a half an hour after sunrise. We shared the route and the summit, which is usually dangerously crammed with often inexperienced and grossly out of shape tourists, with one other couple. Hours later as we hiked down to Yosemite's valley floor we would pass hundreds of day hikers - many without packs and less than a liter of water.
Our descent down to the valley floor was epic with towering granite walls rising thousands of feet above me on either side while powerful waterfalls washed over their tippy tops. We had planned as a splurge to stay at the Yosemite Lodge, not a budget option compared with camping. The lodge is still considerably cheaper than the Ahwahnee. As we tried to check in the girl explained some mixup with the rooms, then a manager came over and said something about overbooking. Before we said anything she offered a $29 upgrade to the Ahwahnee. What a score!
The Ahwahnee is breathtaking inside with its art deco meets Western, rustic log cabin floors and furniture. It's the cabin-hotel without the kitsch and crap that makes me cringe. Architecturally it's functional and beautiful. Walking around the hotel I think of my friend Adrienne and know she would be photographing every nook and cranny of the joint. Enough for today, these sheets are calling my name.
miles: 0
Adrian:
Chalk up an 8-mile zero day for today.
The Ahwahnee Hotel is one of the grandest hotels in the National Park system. Some of these hotels include the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone (my favorite), and Many Glaciers in Glacier National Park. It was built in 1927 and has hosted guests such as JFK, Queen Elizabeth II, Lucille Ball, Herbert Hoover, Humphrey Bogart Laura Bush, Reagan, Churchill, Eisenhower, Robert Redford, who worked here before launching his acting career, and now Adrian and Kirsten. Our room faces Yosemite Falls and we can see Royal Arches. I can't think of a nicer place to stay as a splurge after finishing the John Muir Trail. This hotel was the brainchild of National Park Superintendant Mather, the one whom our most dangerous pass crossing was named after. It's funny that after fearing death on a pass named after him, we sit here sipping Tom Collins at the bar he created.
Our room wasn't ready when we checked in so we took a walk to Housekeeping Camp to do our laundry. We didn't WANT to do it, but my stuff was looking really hoboish, not to mention smelly like a can of DEET mosquito repellant. I wonder if that stuff works on bears, afterall, it does melt plastic, right?
While waiting for the washing machine, I took a swim in the Merced river, dodging the numerous rafters coming around the bend. I managed to get a bit sunburned in the process.
When we arrived back at the hotel the room was ready and it sure was nice. We're talking Ritz-Carlton level style, sheets and bathroom. On the way up to the room I made a dinner reservation at the hotel dining room. The dress code calls for buttoned shirt, check, slacks, check, and no athletic shoes, NOT check. I was going to have to wear my desert finest and do my best to hide the running shoes. Luckily, the shoes were overlooked and we had a great dinner.
What a nice day in Yosemite.
Kirsten:
Adrian failed to mention our climb up Half-Dome. You know, the highlight our entire day. Remember Adrian? I think the 1,000 sheet threadcount and featherbed has fogged his memory.
Last night we camped about 1.5 miles past the Half Dome junction, putting us within 200 yards of the rock stairs that mark the beginning. We woke up this morning before sunrise, loaded up one pack with water, snacks and a warmer layer and then hit the path to Half Dome.
From our tent it was tough to see where the trail goes - it just blends in perfectly with the massive granite block. Once you arrive to the base the trail magically reveals itslef like something out of Narnia. The steep trail traces its way up to the top, them descends to a saddle. From here hikers face the cables route, two steel cable connected to metal posts driven into the rock every 10 yards. A pile of gloves lay at the base of the solid granite route.
We reached the top - wow, my arms are weak - about a half an hour after sunrise. We shared the route and the summit, which is usually dangerously crammed with often inexperienced and grossly out of shape tourists, with one other couple. Hours later as we hiked down to Yosemite's valley floor we would pass hundreds of day hikers - many without packs and less than a liter of water.
Our descent down to the valley floor was epic with towering granite walls rising thousands of feet above me on either side while powerful waterfalls washed over their tippy tops. We had planned as a splurge to stay at the Yosemite Lodge, not a budget option compared with camping. The lodge is still considerably cheaper than the Ahwahnee. As we tried to check in the girl explained some mixup with the rooms, then a manager came over and said something about overbooking. Before we said anything she offered a $29 upgrade to the Ahwahnee. What a score!
The Ahwahnee is breathtaking inside with its art deco meets Western, rustic log cabin floors and furniture. It's the cabin-hotel without the kitsch and crap that makes me cringe. Architecturally it's functional and beautiful. Walking around the hotel I think of my friend Adrienne and know she would be photographing every nook and cranny of the joint. Enough for today, these sheets are calling my name.
July 1, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Base of Half Dome
Miles: 0
Adrian:
The start of our 18-mile zero day.
This morning we went down to the grill for some egg sandwiches. They were really good but the hash browns were not all that.
After saying goodbye to David and a few others, we road walked a mile or so to the visitor's center to catch the John Muir Trail down to the valley. I'm really grateful to be able to complete a thru-hike of the JMT on this trip. It's a great trail, one of the best, and with an ascent of Half Dome tomorrow, a real gem.
We hiked around Cathedral Peak and had great views of it from all angles. Steve and I had climbed the peak about 10 years ago and it was great to be back. John Muir has the first recorded ascent and proclaimed that never before that day had he attended church in California. It surely is a glorious peak.
The hike went over Cathedral Pass and afforded us great views into Little Yosemite Valley. A bit later Half Dome came into view and we wondered how in earth could a hiking route ascend its flanks even with the aid of cables. Tomorrow we shall find out!
We are camped right under Half Dome and have an awesome view into the Valley, which should be made even better at sunset since we face west. We wake at 5 a.m. to be the first on top and to get off the cables before the hoards arrive from below.
Walk good...
Kirsten:
I'm sure some of you are wondering why we are hiking on a zero day. Maybe you're puzzled by our decision to leave the PCT and hike a different trail.
It's simple; we believe our chances for success grow the more fun we have. As one wise family friend put it (O’Neil I'm talking about you) "Remember, this is a vacation."
Sometimes it doesn't feel like one. We try our hardest to avoid those moments. So for us, getting off the PCT to hike down into one of the most dramatic scenes in the United States seemed like a good choice. It turns out we're a couple of geniuses because this has been one of my favorite days since we started this "vacation."
You may be wondering why I didn't write about the bear we saw in Tuolomne yesterday. This was a bear and I've expressed my desire to see one, after all. The bear yesterday did not meet my standards. This was a tagged bear that has grown up living off people food. This was a trash bear, a yogi bear if you will. And in my eyes, a bear loitering around a campground is not normal bear activity. Now that we're in Yosemite National Park it practically guaranteed we'll see more of these trash bears. The bears here, as one hiker puts it, are pro-leaguers. The forest service has to change the design of the bear boxes every year because they figure out how to open them.
Miles: 0
Adrian:
The start of our 18-mile zero day.
This morning we went down to the grill for some egg sandwiches. They were really good but the hash browns were not all that.
After saying goodbye to David and a few others, we road walked a mile or so to the visitor's center to catch the John Muir Trail down to the valley. I'm really grateful to be able to complete a thru-hike of the JMT on this trip. It's a great trail, one of the best, and with an ascent of Half Dome tomorrow, a real gem.
We hiked around Cathedral Peak and had great views of it from all angles. Steve and I had climbed the peak about 10 years ago and it was great to be back. John Muir has the first recorded ascent and proclaimed that never before that day had he attended church in California. It surely is a glorious peak.
The hike went over Cathedral Pass and afforded us great views into Little Yosemite Valley. A bit later Half Dome came into view and we wondered how in earth could a hiking route ascend its flanks even with the aid of cables. Tomorrow we shall find out!
We are camped right under Half Dome and have an awesome view into the Valley, which should be made even better at sunset since we face west. We wake at 5 a.m. to be the first on top and to get off the cables before the hoards arrive from below.
Walk good...
Kirsten:
I'm sure some of you are wondering why we are hiking on a zero day. Maybe you're puzzled by our decision to leave the PCT and hike a different trail.
It's simple; we believe our chances for success grow the more fun we have. As one wise family friend put it (O’Neil I'm talking about you) "Remember, this is a vacation."
Sometimes it doesn't feel like one. We try our hardest to avoid those moments. So for us, getting off the PCT to hike down into one of the most dramatic scenes in the United States seemed like a good choice. It turns out we're a couple of geniuses because this has been one of my favorite days since we started this "vacation."
You may be wondering why I didn't write about the bear we saw in Tuolomne yesterday. This was a bear and I've expressed my desire to see one, after all. The bear yesterday did not meet my standards. This was a tagged bear that has grown up living off people food. This was a trash bear, a yogi bear if you will. And in my eyes, a bear loitering around a campground is not normal bear activity. Now that we're in Yosemite National Park it practically guaranteed we'll see more of these trash bears. The bears here, as one hiker puts it, are pro-leaguers. The forest service has to change the design of the bear boxes every year because they figure out how to open them.
June 30, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Toulumne Meadows
Miles: 16
Adrian:
There must have been fire smoke to the east because the sunrise was quite surreal this morning. Like smog, fire smoke is good for brilliant sunrises and sets.
The hike up to Donahue Pass, the border of Yosemite National Park, went slower than expected but the scenery was great. This pass was almost completely rock covered with small pockets of snow. It has the reputation of being the easiest pass to get lost on, but we had no troubles. We summited the 11,200-foot pass around 9:30 a.m., 2.5 hours after we started.
The rest of the hike into Toulumne Meadows was nice tread and pretty flat. It followed the Lyell Canyon and creek and therefore afforded us water all day.
While finding our campsite we saw our first bear! It was medium/small-sized and cinnamon in color. Too bad our first of the trip was in a national park campground and not the wilderness. I yelled at him but he didn't really care.
Near the campground is a store and grill where we ate and resupplied for the trip into Yosemite Valley. Tomorrow we hike the John Muir Trail toward Half Dome and summit it the day after. After that we'll finish thru-hiking the JMT into the Valley.
Ciao...
Kirsten:
I'm not going to call my husband a nerd.
Ok, yes I am. Not that there's anything wrong with being nerdy. Nerds are knowledgeable, and more importantly, always looking to learn more.
Now that we've established Adrian's nerdiness, it shouldn't be surprising to learn he listening to one of those fireside ranger talks. And it wasn't one of those casual hey-I'm- passing-by-let's-see-what-this-ranger-is-talking-about moments. He's been talking about the 8 p.m. ranger talk since yesterday. I'm sure he researched the schedule during his climbing trip here the other day.
The name of tonight's talk, you ask? Well, "the spirit of adventure" of course. Last night the fireside chat was "The fittest of the furry: marmots and pikas."
Apparently, the ranger kicked off the talk with a sing-a-long. After two songs - one on bears, the other about "how I love Toulomne and I'm happy to be here - the female ranger talked about bears, made a public service announcement on proper food storage and finally told stories about John Muir, Royal Robbins and climber Lynn Hill.
I am proud of Adrian's nerdiness. He even asked a bear question during the discussion part. That's my boy!
It's fun to tease him a bit every time he goes to one of these ranger talks. Oh yes, he's been to many.
This doesn't mean I want him to stop. When you think about it, how great is it to be married to someone who is still interested in learning regardless of how nerdy he may appear? While many of us sit around worrying about what we look like or wonder if someone will think they're weird etc., Adrian's off singing songs and laughing by a fire. He just might be on to something.
Miles: 16
Adrian:
There must have been fire smoke to the east because the sunrise was quite surreal this morning. Like smog, fire smoke is good for brilliant sunrises and sets.
The hike up to Donahue Pass, the border of Yosemite National Park, went slower than expected but the scenery was great. This pass was almost completely rock covered with small pockets of snow. It has the reputation of being the easiest pass to get lost on, but we had no troubles. We summited the 11,200-foot pass around 9:30 a.m., 2.5 hours after we started.
The rest of the hike into Toulumne Meadows was nice tread and pretty flat. It followed the Lyell Canyon and creek and therefore afforded us water all day.
While finding our campsite we saw our first bear! It was medium/small-sized and cinnamon in color. Too bad our first of the trip was in a national park campground and not the wilderness. I yelled at him but he didn't really care.
Near the campground is a store and grill where we ate and resupplied for the trip into Yosemite Valley. Tomorrow we hike the John Muir Trail toward Half Dome and summit it the day after. After that we'll finish thru-hiking the JMT into the Valley.
Ciao...
Kirsten:
I'm not going to call my husband a nerd.
Ok, yes I am. Not that there's anything wrong with being nerdy. Nerds are knowledgeable, and more importantly, always looking to learn more.
Now that we've established Adrian's nerdiness, it shouldn't be surprising to learn he listening to one of those fireside ranger talks. And it wasn't one of those casual hey-I'm- passing-by-let's-see-what-this-ranger-is-talking-about moments. He's been talking about the 8 p.m. ranger talk since yesterday. I'm sure he researched the schedule during his climbing trip here the other day.
The name of tonight's talk, you ask? Well, "the spirit of adventure" of course. Last night the fireside chat was "The fittest of the furry: marmots and pikas."
Apparently, the ranger kicked off the talk with a sing-a-long. After two songs - one on bears, the other about "how I love Toulomne and I'm happy to be here - the female ranger talked about bears, made a public service announcement on proper food storage and finally told stories about John Muir, Royal Robbins and climber Lynn Hill.
I am proud of Adrian's nerdiness. He even asked a bear question during the discussion part. That's my boy!
It's fun to tease him a bit every time he goes to one of these ranger talks. Oh yes, he's been to many.
This doesn't mean I want him to stop. When you think about it, how great is it to be married to someone who is still interested in learning regardless of how nerdy he may appear? While many of us sit around worrying about what we look like or wonder if someone will think they're weird etc., Adrian's off singing songs and laughing by a fire. He just might be on to something.
June 29, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Marie Lakes Trail Junction
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We slept well in the guest bedroom and the quality bed was so appreciated. Up at 5:15 a.m., we had a quick breakfast and hopped in the Tundra to get dropped off at the trail. On the way we got to see Chris in photo mode when he wanted to get some shots of a hot air balloon near his house. It was an inspiration to see a master at work :)
We thanked Chris for a great time and said our goodbyes. It was tough leaving. The first few miles up the dusty trail from Red's Meadow went slow.
Further on things got way better. We took the more scenic John Muir Trail when the PCT and it diverged for a few miles. We passed amazing lakes such as Garnet, Ruby and Emerald. One was named Thousand Island Lake after; you guessed it, the numerous islands. We lost count at 10. The JMT is said to be more strenuous and therefore longer too, but it was worth it.
I somehow dropped the map and data sheet while getting water and didn't notice it until about a half mile later. After rifling through my stuff to make sure I didn't pack it, I jogged back down the trail to find it. Thankfully I was successful.
For lunch we had a bagel with cheese and salami plus misc. snacks. For dinner it was mashed potatoes supercharged with a southwestern chicken filet from a foil packet. Both were good.
We are camped at 10,030 feet and are 2.6 miles from the border of Yosemite. This is where it gets good!
Kirsten:
I dragged for most of the day until we reached Garnet Lake. I always struggle the day we leave town and today was no different.
All of the food and just lounging around is necessary. Town stops also are a complicated endeavor because there is a lot of running around involved. Grocery stops, phone calls to family, locate an Internet terminal and try and upload photos, find a camping store and replace a broken item, find denatured alcohol for our stove at the hardware store. I'm not complaining. It's just that town stops are always more hectic than you realize they'll be. And then once you're back on the trail, it takes a few miles to leave it all behind.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We slept well in the guest bedroom and the quality bed was so appreciated. Up at 5:15 a.m., we had a quick breakfast and hopped in the Tundra to get dropped off at the trail. On the way we got to see Chris in photo mode when he wanted to get some shots of a hot air balloon near his house. It was an inspiration to see a master at work :)
We thanked Chris for a great time and said our goodbyes. It was tough leaving. The first few miles up the dusty trail from Red's Meadow went slow.
Further on things got way better. We took the more scenic John Muir Trail when the PCT and it diverged for a few miles. We passed amazing lakes such as Garnet, Ruby and Emerald. One was named Thousand Island Lake after; you guessed it, the numerous islands. We lost count at 10. The JMT is said to be more strenuous and therefore longer too, but it was worth it.
I somehow dropped the map and data sheet while getting water and didn't notice it until about a half mile later. After rifling through my stuff to make sure I didn't pack it, I jogged back down the trail to find it. Thankfully I was successful.
For lunch we had a bagel with cheese and salami plus misc. snacks. For dinner it was mashed potatoes supercharged with a southwestern chicken filet from a foil packet. Both were good.
We are camped at 10,030 feet and are 2.6 miles from the border of Yosemite. This is where it gets good!
Kirsten:
I dragged for most of the day until we reached Garnet Lake. I always struggle the day we leave town and today was no different.
All of the food and just lounging around is necessary. Town stops also are a complicated endeavor because there is a lot of running around involved. Grocery stops, phone calls to family, locate an Internet terminal and try and upload photos, find a camping store and replace a broken item, find denatured alcohol for our stove at the hardware store. I'm not complaining. It's just that town stops are always more hectic than you realize they'll be. And then once you're back on the trail, it takes a few miles to leave it all behind.
June 28, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Mammoth Lakes
Miles: 0
Adrian:
This morning at 7:45 a.m. we experienced an earthquake that scored 4.3 on the Richter Scale. The epicenter was at Tom's Place, a few miles north of Mammoth. It was our second earthquake as a couple :)
Chris came by at 8 a.m. and we went back to his house to have some espresso and organize some climbing gear for our day in Tuolumne Meadows located within Yosemite National Park. Finally set to go, we hit Schat's Bakery on the way out for pastries. I highly recommend the Pull Away Bread.
Our climb for the day would be Crying Time Again, 5.10R, on Lembert Dome. This climb is a classic for sure: 6 pitches long up the steep northwest wall of Lembert. The climb was run out enough to be spicy, but safe enough not to freak you out. It climbs solid golden granite with knobs and the occasional edge. I loved it.
That night we stayed with Julie and Chris who cooked us a huge chicken and steak dinner with great appetizers.
I think this was the best zero day yet!
Kirsten:
While Adrian was off climbing I focused on other things. Namely, eating foods I can't have in the backcountry.
I started out at Looney Bean, a local coffee shop. I had a latte and a toasted bagel while I used the Internet there. Later I went to Base Camp Cafe for lunch and had a huge salad with fried chicken pieces and about 10 iced tea/lemonades. Finally, I hit Stelar Brew, another local coffee shop, for a blackberry-peach smoothie and two cookies. Around that time Julie picked me up and we went back to their house.
Those two are wonderful hosts and after a tasty dinner we jumped in their Jacuzzi for a few minutes.
Oh, I almost forgot ... at Stellar Brew Uncle Lorenzo walked in. His leg is getting better and once he rests in Mammoth a bit more, he'll be back on the trail.
Miles: 0
Adrian:
This morning at 7:45 a.m. we experienced an earthquake that scored 4.3 on the Richter Scale. The epicenter was at Tom's Place, a few miles north of Mammoth. It was our second earthquake as a couple :)
Chris came by at 8 a.m. and we went back to his house to have some espresso and organize some climbing gear for our day in Tuolumne Meadows located within Yosemite National Park. Finally set to go, we hit Schat's Bakery on the way out for pastries. I highly recommend the Pull Away Bread.
Our climb for the day would be Crying Time Again, 5.10R, on Lembert Dome. This climb is a classic for sure: 6 pitches long up the steep northwest wall of Lembert. The climb was run out enough to be spicy, but safe enough not to freak you out. It climbs solid golden granite with knobs and the occasional edge. I loved it.
That night we stayed with Julie and Chris who cooked us a huge chicken and steak dinner with great appetizers.
I think this was the best zero day yet!
Kirsten:
While Adrian was off climbing I focused on other things. Namely, eating foods I can't have in the backcountry.
I started out at Looney Bean, a local coffee shop. I had a latte and a toasted bagel while I used the Internet there. Later I went to Base Camp Cafe for lunch and had a huge salad with fried chicken pieces and about 10 iced tea/lemonades. Finally, I hit Stelar Brew, another local coffee shop, for a blackberry-peach smoothie and two cookies. Around that time Julie picked me up and we went back to their house.
Those two are wonderful hosts and after a tasty dinner we jumped in their Jacuzzi for a few minutes.
Oh, I almost forgot ... at Stellar Brew Uncle Lorenzo walked in. His leg is getting better and once he rests in Mammoth a bit more, he'll be back on the trail.
June 27, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Mammoth Lakes
Miles: 3
Adrian:
We arrived Red's Meadow, a resort close to Devil's Postpile National Monument, to catch the bus to Mammoth. We got there are 8:30 a.m. and the bus showed up 15 minutes later.... nice! Overdose was there and so was Ninja, and we got caught up with them.
It costs $7 each to get to the ski area and from there a bus takes you to the village for free. It's a wonderful bus system and runs regularly.
Mammoth is changing and the whole village has been redone with the arrival of the new village gondola. It's nice though!
The Motel 6 is our home and we have our bounce box here as well. We missed shipping it out on time but Christian will ship it on Monday. Thanks Chris!
Kirsten:
Another milestone has been reached with our arrival today in Mammoth Lakes. The town is picturesque and has everything you could want - namely good restaurants, coffee shops and a grocery store to buy more grub. Adrian's college roommate, Christian, lives here with his wife and we hope to connect with them tonight for dinner.
For now, we're busy running errands, stuffing our faces and cleaning up our packs. I've been in town for about four hours and have already had a huge amount of jalapeño bread from the famous Schat's bakery, a BLT and avocado sandwich with fries and an endless supply of iced tea-lemonades - my favorite drink - at the Good Life Cafe. As usual I have made myself ill by eating too much.
Miles: 3
Adrian:
We arrived Red's Meadow, a resort close to Devil's Postpile National Monument, to catch the bus to Mammoth. We got there are 8:30 a.m. and the bus showed up 15 minutes later.... nice! Overdose was there and so was Ninja, and we got caught up with them.
It costs $7 each to get to the ski area and from there a bus takes you to the village for free. It's a wonderful bus system and runs regularly.
Mammoth is changing and the whole village has been redone with the arrival of the new village gondola. It's nice though!
The Motel 6 is our home and we have our bounce box here as well. We missed shipping it out on time but Christian will ship it on Monday. Thanks Chris!
Kirsten:
Another milestone has been reached with our arrival today in Mammoth Lakes. The town is picturesque and has everything you could want - namely good restaurants, coffee shops and a grocery store to buy more grub. Adrian's college roommate, Christian, lives here with his wife and we hope to connect with them tonight for dinner.
For now, we're busy running errands, stuffing our faces and cleaning up our packs. I've been in town for about four hours and have already had a huge amount of jalapeño bread from the famous Schat's bakery, a BLT and avocado sandwich with fries and an endless supply of iced tea-lemonades - my favorite drink - at the Good Life Cafe. As usual I have made myself ill by eating too much.
June 26, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Red Cones
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We camped within 4 miles of Mammoth Lakes. The mosquitoes were bad but our campfire kept them at bay. For dinner it was freeze dried Polynesian chicken from Mountain House. We usually don't eat that stuff due to cost and it's lack of many calories, but it is tasty.
I'm looking forward to visiting Mammoth again and seeing our friends Christian and Julie.
Kirsten:
Today was much harder than I anticipated. We summited the pass easily and then promptly lost our way for about 15 minutes on the descent.
As annoying as it is to lose the trail - this time because of the snow - there is no better feeling than we you finally find it again. Success!
There were a number of ups and downs on a rocky trail today and by the time we reached our campsite our feet were tenderized. The mosquitoes were relentless so we took advantage of the fire ring. Within a few minutes, we had our first campfire of the whole trip. We've avoided building campfires up until now because we are paranoid of wildfire. It was such a treat to have one tonight.
Miles: 20
Adrian:
We camped within 4 miles of Mammoth Lakes. The mosquitoes were bad but our campfire kept them at bay. For dinner it was freeze dried Polynesian chicken from Mountain House. We usually don't eat that stuff due to cost and it's lack of many calories, but it is tasty.
I'm looking forward to visiting Mammoth again and seeing our friends Christian and Julie.
Kirsten:
Today was much harder than I anticipated. We summited the pass easily and then promptly lost our way for about 15 minutes on the descent.
As annoying as it is to lose the trail - this time because of the snow - there is no better feeling than we you finally find it again. Success!
There were a number of ups and downs on a rocky trail today and by the time we reached our campsite our feet were tenderized. The mosquitoes were relentless so we took advantage of the fire ring. Within a few minutes, we had our first campfire of the whole trip. We've avoided building campfires up until now because we are paranoid of wildfire. It was such a treat to have one tonight.
June 25, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Silver Pass Lake
Miles: 6
Adrian:
Our plan was to take the 4 p.m. ferry back to the trail so we could log some time off our feet. Also, it would allow us just enough time to hike to and camp at the base of Silver Pass at 10,900 ft. That way we'd be in position to do the pass in the morning and avoid postholing on the descent.
The ferry ride back was quiet. All of the hikers heading back to the trail seemed to have a kind of lost look on their faces, in complete contrast to the faces of the hikers lining up to board as we disembarked. It's never easy leaving a town to go back to the trail, but this time it just stung a bit harder.
It was 1.4 miles from the ferry drop-off back to the PCT. We hiked a steep 6 miles up to the base of Silver Pass and it felt like I had lead in my shoes, but no matter, we made it. The lake we are camped at is still about half frozen yet I hear frogs singing. They must hibernate under 20 feet of snow.
Kirsten:
Amongst all of the streams, damp, spongy meadow and frozen lake we've found a perfect dry campsite tucked in between some old twisted trees. What a fun little spot.
In a day we'll be in Mammoth Lakes, a town I've always wanted to visit. The last two days there has been a lot of haze from a number of fires in Northern California. The scenery has sadly suffered from this and I've limited my typically rampant photo taking until the skies clear.
Miles: 6
Adrian:
Our plan was to take the 4 p.m. ferry back to the trail so we could log some time off our feet. Also, it would allow us just enough time to hike to and camp at the base of Silver Pass at 10,900 ft. That way we'd be in position to do the pass in the morning and avoid postholing on the descent.
The ferry ride back was quiet. All of the hikers heading back to the trail seemed to have a kind of lost look on their faces, in complete contrast to the faces of the hikers lining up to board as we disembarked. It's never easy leaving a town to go back to the trail, but this time it just stung a bit harder.
It was 1.4 miles from the ferry drop-off back to the PCT. We hiked a steep 6 miles up to the base of Silver Pass and it felt like I had lead in my shoes, but no matter, we made it. The lake we are camped at is still about half frozen yet I hear frogs singing. They must hibernate under 20 feet of snow.
Kirsten:
Amongst all of the streams, damp, spongy meadow and frozen lake we've found a perfect dry campsite tucked in between some old twisted trees. What a fun little spot.
In a day we'll be in Mammoth Lakes, a town I've always wanted to visit. The last two days there has been a lot of haze from a number of fires in Northern California. The scenery has sadly suffered from this and I've limited my typically rampant photo taking until the skies clear.
June 24, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Vermilion Valley Resort
Miles: 5
Adrian:
We woke up at 5:30 a.m. in order to make the early boat to the resort. The mosquitoes were outside the tent waiting for the ambush.
Descending from Bear Ridge took time and patience as we hiked down a rocky tread switching back and forth a total of 54 times according to our count. The view was limited due to a thick conifer mixed with aspen forest.
When you arrive at Lake Edison there is a twice-daily ferry that takes you to Vermilion Valley Resort, a fishing destination on the east side of the Sierra. The ferry is nothing more than a stripped down pontoon but it does get you to a restaurant, motel and store.
We decided to stay one night and instead of bunk beds in the perma-tents (canvas tents framed with wood), we upgraded to the 30-foot trailer. We are becoming trailer dwellers on this trip it seems. No worries, we had privacy and our own private bath.
The resort was fun but very expensive. We spent a small fortune so there was motivation to move on the next day. Regardless of cost, after 11 days of mountain hiking, we were sure glad to have an outpost like this here. Thanks Jim!!
Our unsupported, no resupply, 11 day trip over 6 passes, through numerous canyons, up to the highest point in the lower 48 States and many other adventures was a complete success. It was magical to not see a road, house, or any other human "improvement" in those days. We had some dangerous times, but both of us kept a cool head and completed the task at hand.
I'm a bit melancholy this section is over. We still have many mountains to go, don't get me wrong, but this has been a grand experience. It'll be hard to beat.
But hey, we are still 400 miles until half way, so stay tuned, there's more to come!
Kirsten:
VVR! Six months ago I would have never predicted my arrival at VVR, more than 800 miles on the PCT. I have been so focused on surviving and completing the desert I never really spent much time thinking about the path north of Kennedy Meadows. And yet here we are.
I am elated at our progress. I'm even more excited that we're not merely trying to "get through" the trail. We're enjoying it mosquitoes and all.
We've reunited with the Duece, Lil Wrangler and Snow Kittens. We also discovered a message waiting for us at VVR from Doc, Sven and Troy - all Wisconites. We hope to catch them after the Sierras. If not, we at least have their contact information now.
Miles: 5
Adrian:
We woke up at 5:30 a.m. in order to make the early boat to the resort. The mosquitoes were outside the tent waiting for the ambush.
Descending from Bear Ridge took time and patience as we hiked down a rocky tread switching back and forth a total of 54 times according to our count. The view was limited due to a thick conifer mixed with aspen forest.
When you arrive at Lake Edison there is a twice-daily ferry that takes you to Vermilion Valley Resort, a fishing destination on the east side of the Sierra. The ferry is nothing more than a stripped down pontoon but it does get you to a restaurant, motel and store.
We decided to stay one night and instead of bunk beds in the perma-tents (canvas tents framed with wood), we upgraded to the 30-foot trailer. We are becoming trailer dwellers on this trip it seems. No worries, we had privacy and our own private bath.
The resort was fun but very expensive. We spent a small fortune so there was motivation to move on the next day. Regardless of cost, after 11 days of mountain hiking, we were sure glad to have an outpost like this here. Thanks Jim!!
Our unsupported, no resupply, 11 day trip over 6 passes, through numerous canyons, up to the highest point in the lower 48 States and many other adventures was a complete success. It was magical to not see a road, house, or any other human "improvement" in those days. We had some dangerous times, but both of us kept a cool head and completed the task at hand.
I'm a bit melancholy this section is over. We still have many mountains to go, don't get me wrong, but this has been a grand experience. It'll be hard to beat.
But hey, we are still 400 miles until half way, so stay tuned, there's more to come!
Kirsten:
VVR! Six months ago I would have never predicted my arrival at VVR, more than 800 miles on the PCT. I have been so focused on surviving and completing the desert I never really spent much time thinking about the path north of Kennedy Meadows. And yet here we are.
I am elated at our progress. I'm even more excited that we're not merely trying to "get through" the trail. We're enjoying it mosquitoes and all.
We've reunited with the Duece, Lil Wrangler and Snow Kittens. We also discovered a message waiting for us at VVR from Doc, Sven and Troy - all Wisconites. We hope to catch them after the Sierras. If not, we at least have their contact information now.
June 23, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: 4 Miles Above VVR Landing
Miles: 16
Adrian:
The unexpected surprise of cell phone service at our evening campsite was quite welcome. I called my Mom because it had been over two weeks since we last spoke. It was nice to hear her voice and get a short update on things back home. The battery on the phone was low so we had to cut it short. I miss my family back home and think a lot about them on the trail. It's pretty raw on the trail and not uncommon to openly show emotions like crying or laughing or whatever.
Kirsten:
I have discovered Adrian's kryptonite. It's the mosquito. And it's quickly becoming mine as well.
The Sierras are filled with water, which I love. The plentiful water supply also means an abundance of mosquitoes. Sometimes they are so thick that it's impossible to walk fast enough to avoid their bites. And forget about stopping. If we do stop the break usually evolves quickly into a frenzied swatting session, hasty pack up of our stuff and before five minutes has passed we're back on the road. Sometimes during these breaks or when we set up camp for the night the mosquitoes swarm Adrian. This is when my normally happy and mellow husband becomes a harried, impatient freakshow. This was sort of funny to watch until recently when the mosquitoes discovered me. Now they surround me as much if not more than Adrian. Damn karma.
Miles: 16
Adrian:
The unexpected surprise of cell phone service at our evening campsite was quite welcome. I called my Mom because it had been over two weeks since we last spoke. It was nice to hear her voice and get a short update on things back home. The battery on the phone was low so we had to cut it short. I miss my family back home and think a lot about them on the trail. It's pretty raw on the trail and not uncommon to openly show emotions like crying or laughing or whatever.
Kirsten:
I have discovered Adrian's kryptonite. It's the mosquito. And it's quickly becoming mine as well.
The Sierras are filled with water, which I love. The plentiful water supply also means an abundance of mosquitoes. Sometimes they are so thick that it's impossible to walk fast enough to avoid their bites. And forget about stopping. If we do stop the break usually evolves quickly into a frenzied swatting session, hasty pack up of our stuff and before five minutes has passed we're back on the road. Sometimes during these breaks or when we set up camp for the night the mosquitoes swarm Adrian. This is when my normally happy and mellow husband becomes a harried, impatient freakshow. This was sort of funny to watch until recently when the mosquitoes discovered me. Now they surround me as much if not more than Adrian. Damn karma.
June 22, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Above Florence Lake Trail
Miles: 23
Adrian: We did more miles today than I thought we would, given we had to tackle the longest pass crossing of the trip. Maybe it was because the second half of the day was mostly downhill or maybe it was just because we were motivated to keep on schedule for our planned rendezvous with Christian (and maybe Stephen) in Mammoth Lake on the 27th or 28th. Whatever the reason, here we are.
The morning started warm, around 35 degrees, when the alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. I finished off the last of my granola and powdered milk (I think Kirsten still has another serving left) and we hit the trail around 6:18 a.m. running into and meeting for the first time thru-hiker Jarrow. He hiked faster than us but started 10 days earlier and has taken around 16 zero days. We would end up leap-frogging with him for the next couple days before he took the lead for good a day later. Maybe we'll see him in VVR on the 24th.
The long ascent was made longer due to the amount of snow that is still lingering here. Hiking across snow means wet feet and slow going. Creeping our way up the pass we passed a great camping area I dubbed Fairy Meadows due to the bright green grass, small bonsai pines and beautiful pink flowers that brightened the otherwise white and gray surroundings caused by snow and granite rocks. A few people were camped here.
We made the same mistake in identifying Helen Lake as countless other hikers have done before us, thinking it was earlier than it actually is. The trail was completely buried in snow and we followed footsteps in the snow as it led us higher and higher. Huge gray peaks soared above us as we kick-stepped our way up. A party of 3 was ahead of us and another twosome behind. Otherwise we had the pass to ourselves.
The climb continued upward past a false summit until we suddenly saw the stone hut indicating our arrival at the pass. We were elated! The hut is an interesting structure built in memory of John Muir and for hikers caught on top on the pass in inclement weather. The best I can describe it is that it looks like an igloo with overlapping stone construction from bottom to top and ever inward resulting in a type of dome. Inside was a no longer used fireplace and a stone bench around the perimeter. I climbed the outside and Kirsten took a picture of me on top.
The view north from the top was awe-inspiring and daunting at the same time. Peaks were all around us as was lots of snow. We stayed there for about 30 minutes eating a snack and savoring the experience. Unfortunately we had to leave in order to walk the snow before too late in the day and the resulting postholing hell that would incur if we didn't. The four thousand foot descent took time and did include lots of postholing. The most annoying of which took place next to Wanda Lake (named after one of John Muir's daughters), where we would break through into several inches of ice, slush and water.
Today also included a fording of Evolution Creek, one that enjoys a fierce reputation on the PCT. Lucky for us it was only about 3 feet deep and not too fast. We took a long break on the other side to clean up and dry some shoes, socks and other clothing.
The rest of the day included finishing the long descent and finding a campsite that proved harder and dryer than we thought. Nonetheless, we found one just around dark, set-up the tent and cooked in the dark.
All in all, a great day.
Kirsten: Wow, Adrian is feeling chatty today.
My favorite part of the day was the first part of the hike from the campsite up to Helen Lake. The pass was certainly a highlight. But it was this morning that continually took my breath away. The sometimes rocky path wound its way up through squishy meadows littered with red heather, Indian paintbrush, blue forget-me-nots, and these orchid-Columbine flowers that I don't know the name of. By this point, we were well above 10,000 feet so the gnarled and wind sculpted trees located up here are hundreds of years old. Amongst all of these alternating meadows, granite steppes and wildflowers were small creeklets and the occasional river crossing. I half expected a unicorn to cross my path.
The Sierras have definitely surpassed my expectations.
Miles: 23
Adrian: We did more miles today than I thought we would, given we had to tackle the longest pass crossing of the trip. Maybe it was because the second half of the day was mostly downhill or maybe it was just because we were motivated to keep on schedule for our planned rendezvous with Christian (and maybe Stephen) in Mammoth Lake on the 27th or 28th. Whatever the reason, here we are.The morning started warm, around 35 degrees, when the alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. I finished off the last of my granola and powdered milk (I think Kirsten still has another serving left) and we hit the trail around 6:18 a.m. running into and meeting for the first time thru-hiker Jarrow. He hiked faster than us but started 10 days earlier and has taken around 16 zero days. We would end up leap-frogging with him for the next couple days before he took the lead for good a day later. Maybe we'll see him in VVR on the 24th.
The long ascent was made longer due to the amount of snow that is still lingering here. Hiking across snow means wet feet and slow going. Creeping our way up the pass we passed a great camping area I dubbed Fairy Meadows due to the bright green grass, small bonsai pines and beautiful pink flowers that brightened the otherwise white and gray surroundings caused by snow and granite rocks. A few people were camped here.
We made the same mistake in identifying Helen Lake as countless other hikers have done before us, thinking it was earlier than it actually is. The trail was completely buried in snow and we followed footsteps in the snow as it led us higher and higher. Huge gray peaks soared above us as we kick-stepped our way up. A party of 3 was ahead of us and another twosome behind. Otherwise we had the pass to ourselves.
The climb continued upward past a false summit until we suddenly saw the stone hut indicating our arrival at the pass. We were elated! The hut is an interesting structure built in memory of John Muir and for hikers caught on top on the pass in inclement weather. The best I can describe it is that it looks like an igloo with overlapping stone construction from bottom to top and ever inward resulting in a type of dome. Inside was a no longer used fireplace and a stone bench around the perimeter. I climbed the outside and Kirsten took a picture of me on top.
The view north from the top was awe-inspiring and daunting at the same time. Peaks were all around us as was lots of snow. We stayed there for about 30 minutes eating a snack and savoring the experience. Unfortunately we had to leave in order to walk the snow before too late in the day and the resulting postholing hell that would incur if we didn't. The four thousand foot descent took time and did include lots of postholing. The most annoying of which took place next to Wanda Lake (named after one of John Muir's daughters), where we would break through into several inches of ice, slush and water.
Today also included a fording of Evolution Creek, one that enjoys a fierce reputation on the PCT. Lucky for us it was only about 3 feet deep and not too fast. We took a long break on the other side to clean up and dry some shoes, socks and other clothing.The rest of the day included finishing the long descent and finding a campsite that proved harder and dryer than we thought. Nonetheless, we found one just around dark, set-up the tent and cooked in the dark.
All in all, a great day.
Kirsten: Wow, Adrian is feeling chatty today.
My favorite part of the day was the first part of the hike from the campsite up to Helen Lake. The pass was certainly a highlight. But it was this morning that continually took my breath away. The sometimes rocky path wound its way up through squishy meadows littered with red heather, Indian paintbrush, blue forget-me-nots, and these orchid-Columbine flowers that I don't know the name of. By this point, we were well above 10,000 feet so the gnarled and wind sculpted trees located up here are hundreds of years old. Amongst all of these alternating meadows, granite steppes and wildflowers were small creeklets and the occasional river crossing. I half expected a unicorn to cross my path.
The Sierras have definitely surpassed my expectations.
June 21, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Big Pete Meadow
Miles: 14
Adrian:
A huge congratulations to Billy and the best of wishes to Deanne on their wedding day today! We are so sorry to miss the special day and celebrate with all the great people at the event. We love you two! Good luck and the best of times to you two.
Today was a nice rest day with relatively easy miles to get in position for the longest pass yet; Muir Pass.
We started with a long 2,000 foot descent down the Golden Staircase. Trekking poles saved our knees here for sure. We followed a raging river down to the Middle Fork of the King's River. Once there we had a warm lunch of brown fried rice with sundried tomatoes. I caught a small Golden Trout while K cooked.
We lunched with Duece and talked about going to the High Sierra Music Festival over Independence Day. It's in Quincy, which is not far from where we'll be.
The hike up past Bishop Pass trail was an easy climb and we found a great stealth campsite about 4 miles from the summit of Muir Pass. Dinner was Mac'n'Cheese super-charged with a chicken breast mixed in. Desert was crushed Mint Milanos.
Tomorrow an early start on Muir...
Kirsten:
Two important events occurred today. First and foremost, Billy and Deanne's wedding. Our adventure has been amazing. BUT I wish we could have been at in Colorado to witness our close friends exchange vows.
OK, on to the next event. Hike Naked Day! Yup, today is hike naked day. You should see Adrian's sunburn.
Miles: 14
Adrian:
A huge congratulations to Billy and the best of wishes to Deanne on their wedding day today! We are so sorry to miss the special day and celebrate with all the great people at the event. We love you two! Good luck and the best of times to you two.
Today was a nice rest day with relatively easy miles to get in position for the longest pass yet; Muir Pass.
We started with a long 2,000 foot descent down the Golden Staircase. Trekking poles saved our knees here for sure. We followed a raging river down to the Middle Fork of the King's River. Once there we had a warm lunch of brown fried rice with sundried tomatoes. I caught a small Golden Trout while K cooked.
We lunched with Duece and talked about going to the High Sierra Music Festival over Independence Day. It's in Quincy, which is not far from where we'll be.
The hike up past Bishop Pass trail was an easy climb and we found a great stealth campsite about 4 miles from the summit of Muir Pass. Dinner was Mac'n'Cheese super-charged with a chicken breast mixed in. Desert was crushed Mint Milanos.
Tomorrow an early start on Muir...
Kirsten:
Two important events occurred today. First and foremost, Billy and Deanne's wedding. Our adventure has been amazing. BUT I wish we could have been at in Colorado to witness our close friends exchange vows.
OK, on to the next event. Hike Naked Day! Yup, today is hike naked day. You should see Adrian's sunburn.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
June 20, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Upper Palisade Lake
Miles: 15
Adrian:
This was supposed to be a fun day but it turned out stressful and sad.
The Sierra has some of the best scenery and camping of any park I've ever visited. I must come back some time and take it in a bit slower.
Today we woke up with a few other hikers around us including Uncle Lorenzo whom we love hiking with. Since we hoped to climb two passes today we packed up and were out hiking pretty early.
The passes of the day were Pinchot, 12,130 feet, and Mather, 12,100 feet.
We positioned ourselves well the night before and only had about a 3-mile hike up to Pinchot. No problem right? Wrong. Most of the approach was snow covered and the trail very hard to find. We've had wet feet now for about 3 days straight due to hiking over snow and crossing big streams. That's right, many steams are not bridged so we walk right through them with our shoes on. Also, because of all the snowmelt, the trail is often a river itself.
We summited Pinchot Pass around 10:30 a.m. with Lorenzo not far behind. On top we were invited by him to visit Torino, his hometown. We hope to soon. The descent was snow covered and we separated from Lorenzo as we picked our way down to Lake Majorie. Upon reaching the lake I did some fishing with no luck other than a follow. The lake was choked with icebergs so maybe that had something to do with it.
Further down valley we had to ford the South Fork of the King River. It was about lower thigh high and very cold. We met Gloworm on the other side and had lunch while our things dried in the hot sun. We wondered about Lorenzo because he wasn't too far behind usually. After an hour break we began to move out for our second pass, Mather.
As we resumed our hike we came across Yak and company. Since they were behind us we asked if they had seen Lorenzo. That's when we heard the news that he had somehow injured his calf or something like that not far from where we had last seen him. His plan was to limp out to trailhead over Taboose Pass which is near 12,000 feet and over 10 miles, a tough proposition healthy, much less with an injured leg. Kirsten and I were very saddened by the news and still are concerned for our Uncle Lorenzo. He's is a very capable mountaineer though so I'm confident he'll be fine.
Lorenzo, if you read this, please get well soon and try to skip ahead after resting a few days, or even a week. Maybe get back on in Yosemite? Good luck my friend!
On to Mather with a heavy heart. The climb to the pass was easy and very scenic. Simply awesome mountains and rivers with many wet fords. Then we saw the pass itself; snow covered and steep.
We approached from the left on the trail (some kick steps up the snow slope directly below the pass) and soon hit the steep traverse up the snow slope. Steps were in place and near the top I wish I had my ice axe in hand. A fall there would have meant a 500-foot slide down the snowfield. The runout was relatively safe but risk of injury would have still been high. Kirsten did a great job even though the exposure was high.
We enjoyed the view from the top with Gloworm and then made our way down the snowy north face. Kirsten fell once and hurt her butt, but she was fine except for a bruise. At 7:20 p.m. we found a decent campsite above Upper Palisade Lake.
What a day...
Kirsten:
So ... falling. That's my job these days.
This morning we both hit the trail with an ambitious schedule - two passes in a day. The first pass went well.
Then there was Mather. The ascent made me nervous. I talked my self through it, kept my head down and kicked steps until we reached the summit. This is when the fun began. The descent was a slip n' slide carnival ride filled with endless postholing through soft snow and breaking through snow bridges into small creeklets.
Somehow Adrian floated on top while I wallowed in the dredges. And then I fell. And then I fell again. And again.
When we finally made it to a dry campsite I was a bit pissy and hungry. My mood improved with a hot meal and I was sitting in the tent about to fall asleep when I spotted a mammoth mule deer buck silently walk by. In that one moment I forgot all about my bruised butt and tendency to fall every five seconds.
Miles: 15
Adrian:
This was supposed to be a fun day but it turned out stressful and sad.
The Sierra has some of the best scenery and camping of any park I've ever visited. I must come back some time and take it in a bit slower.
Today we woke up with a few other hikers around us including Uncle Lorenzo whom we love hiking with. Since we hoped to climb two passes today we packed up and were out hiking pretty early.
The passes of the day were Pinchot, 12,130 feet, and Mather, 12,100 feet.
We positioned ourselves well the night before and only had about a 3-mile hike up to Pinchot. No problem right? Wrong. Most of the approach was snow covered and the trail very hard to find. We've had wet feet now for about 3 days straight due to hiking over snow and crossing big streams. That's right, many steams are not bridged so we walk right through them with our shoes on. Also, because of all the snowmelt, the trail is often a river itself.
We summited Pinchot Pass around 10:30 a.m. with Lorenzo not far behind. On top we were invited by him to visit Torino, his hometown. We hope to soon. The descent was snow covered and we separated from Lorenzo as we picked our way down to Lake Majorie. Upon reaching the lake I did some fishing with no luck other than a follow. The lake was choked with icebergs so maybe that had something to do with it.
Further down valley we had to ford the South Fork of the King River. It was about lower thigh high and very cold. We met Gloworm on the other side and had lunch while our things dried in the hot sun. We wondered about Lorenzo because he wasn't too far behind usually. After an hour break we began to move out for our second pass, Mather.
As we resumed our hike we came across Yak and company. Since they were behind us we asked if they had seen Lorenzo. That's when we heard the news that he had somehow injured his calf or something like that not far from where we had last seen him. His plan was to limp out to trailhead over Taboose Pass which is near 12,000 feet and over 10 miles, a tough proposition healthy, much less with an injured leg. Kirsten and I were very saddened by the news and still are concerned for our Uncle Lorenzo. He's is a very capable mountaineer though so I'm confident he'll be fine.
Lorenzo, if you read this, please get well soon and try to skip ahead after resting a few days, or even a week. Maybe get back on in Yosemite? Good luck my friend!
On to Mather with a heavy heart. The climb to the pass was easy and very scenic. Simply awesome mountains and rivers with many wet fords. Then we saw the pass itself; snow covered and steep.
We approached from the left on the trail (some kick steps up the snow slope directly below the pass) and soon hit the steep traverse up the snow slope. Steps were in place and near the top I wish I had my ice axe in hand. A fall there would have meant a 500-foot slide down the snowfield. The runout was relatively safe but risk of injury would have still been high. Kirsten did a great job even though the exposure was high.
We enjoyed the view from the top with Gloworm and then made our way down the snowy north face. Kirsten fell once and hurt her butt, but she was fine except for a bruise. At 7:20 p.m. we found a decent campsite above Upper Palisade Lake.
What a day...
Kirsten:
So ... falling. That's my job these days.
This morning we both hit the trail with an ambitious schedule - two passes in a day. The first pass went well.
Then there was Mather. The ascent made me nervous. I talked my self through it, kept my head down and kicked steps until we reached the summit. This is when the fun began. The descent was a slip n' slide carnival ride filled with endless postholing through soft snow and breaking through snow bridges into small creeklets.
Somehow Adrian floated on top while I wallowed in the dredges. And then I fell. And then I fell again. And again.
When we finally made it to a dry campsite I was a bit pissy and hungry. My mood improved with a hot meal and I was sitting in the tent about to fall asleep when I spotted a mammoth mule deer buck silently walk by. In that one moment I forgot all about my bruised butt and tendency to fall every five seconds.
June 19, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Twin Lakes, King's Canyon N.P
Miles: 15.5
Adrian:
Today we slept in because there was no need to rush to get to Glen Pass early. The pass has a fair amount of snow on it that is very slippery when frozen solid after a long night, hence, no rush.
Glen Pass, at 11,978 feet, is known to many as the most treacherous on the PCT, so we would wait until 10:30 a.m. to hike the steepest parts.
The ascent wound through dark azure alpine lakes still choked with icebergs. Snowmelt streams were abundant so we never carried more than a half a liter. You can't see the switchbacks zigzagging up the improbable cliff until you are very close to them. The trail was good and we sped up it in fine style.
Lorenzo, 57, is from Torino and is now being called Uncle Lorenzo on the trail was on top to greet us. The view was great down to Sixty Lakes Basin and Rae Lakes.
The way down started with a steep traverse over snow, maybe an eighth of a mile long with big exposure. A fall here would have dire consequences. The rest was intermittent snowfields and rock ridges. We made it down safely and took a break at beautiful Rae Lakes.
Continuing down the valley towards Woods Creek we stopped at Dollar Lake to fish. We caught Golden Trout, the state fish of California, on every cast. They are such beautiful fish, not very big, but golden brown with bright pink spots and a fluorescent orange underbelly. We fished for about an hour before the mosquitoes drove us off.
The rest of the day we hiked down a long valley next to a river I don't know the name of, to Woods Creek. It had a great suspension bridge around 100 feet long over the torrent. Only one person was allowed across at a time.
King's Canyon National Park has some the best hiking I've ever seen. The scenery is simply breathtaking, ranking up there with Patagonia, Glacier National Park, and Yosemite.
I HIGHLY recommend a backpacking trip here along the John Muir Trail or any of the other great paths in the area.
This is fun...
Kirsten:
The scariest pass ... DUM, DUM, DUUUMMMMM. It turned out to be not so scary. It didn't make it any easier. The pass was still steep and snowy. My confidence with trekking through snow has increased and I think that has helped me today.
We haven't seen any bears yet and I'm starting to wonder if there are any out here.
Miles: 15.5
Adrian:
Today we slept in because there was no need to rush to get to Glen Pass early. The pass has a fair amount of snow on it that is very slippery when frozen solid after a long night, hence, no rush.
Glen Pass, at 11,978 feet, is known to many as the most treacherous on the PCT, so we would wait until 10:30 a.m. to hike the steepest parts.
The ascent wound through dark azure alpine lakes still choked with icebergs. Snowmelt streams were abundant so we never carried more than a half a liter. You can't see the switchbacks zigzagging up the improbable cliff until you are very close to them. The trail was good and we sped up it in fine style.
Lorenzo, 57, is from Torino and is now being called Uncle Lorenzo on the trail was on top to greet us. The view was great down to Sixty Lakes Basin and Rae Lakes.
The way down started with a steep traverse over snow, maybe an eighth of a mile long with big exposure. A fall here would have dire consequences. The rest was intermittent snowfields and rock ridges. We made it down safely and took a break at beautiful Rae Lakes.
Continuing down the valley towards Woods Creek we stopped at Dollar Lake to fish. We caught Golden Trout, the state fish of California, on every cast. They are such beautiful fish, not very big, but golden brown with bright pink spots and a fluorescent orange underbelly. We fished for about an hour before the mosquitoes drove us off.
The rest of the day we hiked down a long valley next to a river I don't know the name of, to Woods Creek. It had a great suspension bridge around 100 feet long over the torrent. Only one person was allowed across at a time.
King's Canyon National Park has some the best hiking I've ever seen. The scenery is simply breathtaking, ranking up there with Patagonia, Glacier National Park, and Yosemite.
I HIGHLY recommend a backpacking trip here along the John Muir Trail or any of the other great paths in the area.
This is fun...
Kirsten:
The scariest pass ... DUM, DUM, DUUUMMMMM. It turned out to be not so scary. It didn't make it any easier. The pass was still steep and snowy. My confidence with trekking through snow has increased and I think that has helped me today.
We haven't seen any bears yet and I'm starting to wonder if there are any out here.
June 18, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: King's Canyon N.P.
Miles: 18
Adrian:
Forester Pass is more than 13,100 feet and steep. We camped about 4 miles from the summit and started hiking around 7 a.m. as to arrive early enough to prevent postholing (stepping on the snow and plunging up to the thigh) but late enough to assure the snow was not all ice from the night before. The plan worked and we summited without any issues. The switchbacks were very steep and there was only one tricky snow chute to cross. All in all, not bad.
On top were about 12 other PCT thru-hikers and it was a real party. Everyone was very excited to have climbed the highest pass of them all. This is also the border of Sequoia and King's Canyon National Parks. Our second national park of the trip so far.
This is the highest point on the PCT, so technically it's all downhill to Canada :) The descent was snowy and our feet were soaked. We didn't know it at the time but our shoes haven't been dry since due to snow and deep river fords.
Tomorrow on to the scariest pass, Glen.
Kirsten:
We forded a creek the night before so this morning we awoke to frozen shoes. Ever try to put on frozen shoes? Try to avoid this scenario. The normally mundane act of putting on my shoes became a WWF match this morning.
So, my first true mountain, snow-covered pass. I was nervous coming up it. It looked hard and I was worried about the altitude. The going was slow for me. And then without warning I was on top. Just like that (snap of the fingers) my first and the highest pass was complete. On top was Gary or Drive-by, Snow Kittens, Lil Wrangler, the Deuce, who broke out his guitar for a little summit pass music, Shake n' Bake, Slow Ride and the Italian Lorenzo, who now goes by UNNNNCCCCLLLLEE LOOOORENNNZOOOOOO.
Miles: 18
Adrian:
Forester Pass is more than 13,100 feet and steep. We camped about 4 miles from the summit and started hiking around 7 a.m. as to arrive early enough to prevent postholing (stepping on the snow and plunging up to the thigh) but late enough to assure the snow was not all ice from the night before. The plan worked and we summited without any issues. The switchbacks were very steep and there was only one tricky snow chute to cross. All in all, not bad.
On top were about 12 other PCT thru-hikers and it was a real party. Everyone was very excited to have climbed the highest pass of them all. This is also the border of Sequoia and King's Canyon National Parks. Our second national park of the trip so far.
This is the highest point on the PCT, so technically it's all downhill to Canada :) The descent was snowy and our feet were soaked. We didn't know it at the time but our shoes haven't been dry since due to snow and deep river fords.
Tomorrow on to the scariest pass, Glen.
Kirsten:
We forded a creek the night before so this morning we awoke to frozen shoes. Ever try to put on frozen shoes? Try to avoid this scenario. The normally mundane act of putting on my shoes became a WWF match this morning.
So, my first true mountain, snow-covered pass. I was nervous coming up it. It looked hard and I was worried about the altitude. The going was slow for me. And then without warning I was on top. Just like that (snap of the fingers) my first and the highest pass was complete. On top was Gary or Drive-by, Snow Kittens, Lil Wrangler, the Deuce, who broke out his guitar for a little summit pass music, Shake n' Bake, Slow Ride and the Italian Lorenzo, who now goes by UNNNNCCCCLLLLEE LOOOORENNNZOOOOOO.
June 17, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail
Destination: Wright Creek, Sequoia N.P.
Miles: 6
Adrian:
Today was technically a zero day but we got a few things done. Let's see, we did get 6 trail miles done, we did get some trout fishing done (no luck but a couple strikes), oh and we did climb the highest peak in the lower 48 states of the U.S.A., Mount Whitney!
Rob, Kirsten and I woke at 5:30 a.m. and started the hike an hour later. The trail wound around Guitar Lake and made its way to the basin above. Steep switchbacks led up to the junction with the Whitney Portal Trail. It was amazing how this trail would weave into and out of the wildest towers. Kirsten was out of sight around a tower when she fell again. She reported that her trekking pole got stuck and she lost her footing. Apparently the pole almost went over the big cliff next to her.
It was about a 3,000-foot climb to the summit where the Smithsonian Hut resides for research. We took pictures, had lunch and tried but failed to get a cell phone signal. All in all, we spent an hour on top.
Rob needed to take the Portal trail down and hitch a ride to Lone Pine so we said our sad goodbyes and bid him farewell. It was great to have him along. He easily kept up with us, and except for some blisters caused by small shoes, managed the four-day hike with ease. Maybe another trip down the road, Rob?
Kirsten and I sped down the trail, broke camp, and hiked the 4 miles to the PCT and did another six on that. I did a little fishing in a stream near Timberline Lake but had no luck other than a solid strike.
Tomorrow, the highest pass on the PCT! Walk good...
Kirsten:
I'm pretty sure Adrian wrangled away Lance Armstrong's heart and lungs in a game of black jack. He practically floated up the switchbacks to Mount Whitney while my pace slackened to a slow molasses ooze. Every time I hike and hit about 13,000 feet, my body begins to reject the high altitude environment I happen to be in. I still made to the top. It was just a struggle.
Today was the first day that I even considered leaving the trail. I know why and those thoughts passed as we set up camp for the night. I've been so focused on my mini-goals, just get to Warner Springs, OK now to Idlywild and so on, that I haven't had time to get homesick. And where is home, anyway? Our house is rented, our family and friends scattered about. Adrian is my home in most ways. Still, having my brother join us for a few days abruptly swept me back into my pre-trail life. When he left the summit and began his descent, I was surprised at how emotional I was about his departure and how overwhelmed I felt at the thought of the trail ahead. Slowly, as we pushed on through more miles I fell back into my routine and started enjoying the Sierras again.
Miles: 6
Adrian:
Today was technically a zero day but we got a few things done. Let's see, we did get 6 trail miles done, we did get some trout fishing done (no luck but a couple strikes), oh and we did climb the highest peak in the lower 48 states of the U.S.A., Mount Whitney!
Rob, Kirsten and I woke at 5:30 a.m. and started the hike an hour later. The trail wound around Guitar Lake and made its way to the basin above. Steep switchbacks led up to the junction with the Whitney Portal Trail. It was amazing how this trail would weave into and out of the wildest towers. Kirsten was out of sight around a tower when she fell again. She reported that her trekking pole got stuck and she lost her footing. Apparently the pole almost went over the big cliff next to her.
It was about a 3,000-foot climb to the summit where the Smithsonian Hut resides for research. We took pictures, had lunch and tried but failed to get a cell phone signal. All in all, we spent an hour on top.
Rob needed to take the Portal trail down and hitch a ride to Lone Pine so we said our sad goodbyes and bid him farewell. It was great to have him along. He easily kept up with us, and except for some blisters caused by small shoes, managed the four-day hike with ease. Maybe another trip down the road, Rob?
Kirsten and I sped down the trail, broke camp, and hiked the 4 miles to the PCT and did another six on that. I did a little fishing in a stream near Timberline Lake but had no luck other than a solid strike.
Tomorrow, the highest pass on the PCT! Walk good...
Kirsten:
I'm pretty sure Adrian wrangled away Lance Armstrong's heart and lungs in a game of black jack. He practically floated up the switchbacks to Mount Whitney while my pace slackened to a slow molasses ooze. Every time I hike and hit about 13,000 feet, my body begins to reject the high altitude environment I happen to be in. I still made to the top. It was just a struggle.
Today was the first day that I even considered leaving the trail. I know why and those thoughts passed as we set up camp for the night. I've been so focused on my mini-goals, just get to Warner Springs, OK now to Idlywild and so on, that I haven't had time to get homesick. And where is home, anyway? Our house is rented, our family and friends scattered about. Adrian is my home in most ways. Still, having my brother join us for a few days abruptly swept me back into my pre-trail life. When he left the summit and began his descent, I was surprised at how emotional I was about his departure and how overwhelmed I felt at the thought of the trail ahead. Slowly, as we pushed on through more miles I fell back into my routine and started enjoying the Sierras again.
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