May 10, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Idyllwild
Miles: 18

Adrian: This day started great and ended great, it was the middle I want to forget.

Jordan got some weird allergy and fell behind after a few hours. He caught up but took an extended break and fell behind again to allow his watering eyes to recover. We said goodbyes and hiked on.

We hiked to Hwy 74 and road walked to the next detour section which was a hot mountain bike trail through chamise scrub with no wind. We were way off the PCT and were forced to hike this crappy desert trail with the high, cool alpine original trail looming above in jest. Kirsten started breaking down in the heat and we made slow progress to a high meadow with cool breezes and shady pines. I was having a hard time as well and we were very relieved to have hit the alpine glen (planina in Slovenian). We convalesced after a tough few hours feeling good we only had a few miles to town.

We arrived tired, met a ton of nice people, found our hotel and ate a nice dinner. Tonight we sleep good...


Kirsten: It's amazing how quickly our attitudes or demeanor can change with a little too much sun or a long-awaited breeze. I was feeling pretty until the mountain bike trail cutoff, somewhere around mile 12. The sun intensified, the wind stopped and I was overcome with doubt, pain and plain old overheating. Later, after a break in the shade and a long traverse down the trail we hit the neighborhoods right above Idyllwild.

The first local we met, a lovely, bubbly woman in her 50s named Judy, immediately offered us watermelon and some shade. We only needed directions and after five minutes we were on our way.

As we hiked down into town we met four more people. Friendly doesn't adequately describe the people here. One guy commended our efforts, another offered us his phone, food anything we wanted or needed. Keep in mind these are regular folks.

That night when we stopped into buy a bottle of wine, I asked the owner/manager if he knew where a pay phone was in town. Without hesitation he grabbed his business phone and thrust it into my hand. "Call anywhere you want, anywhere." I used our MCI card and left a message with my mom. He persisted. "Please, cal her cell phone, come back later if you need to."
As I walked out the door I commented how nice everyone has been to us. He exclaimed with a slight accent, "It is because we love it here. We are very happy."
When was the last time the guy working the counter of a liquor store or convenience store pushed you to make a long distance call on his phone? Or even gave you a smile? Or looked you in the eye? Or didn't punch you in the mouth? Not that that has ever happened to me.
Anyway you get my point, these people are nice.

May 9, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Thomas Mountain Detour
Miles: 20

Adrian: We woke this morning with the goal of finding out if the fire would cause us a detour and to make sure we would make it to the Paradise Cafe for the famous Jose Burger, rumored to be the best on the PCT. It was 12 miles until we would know our fate.

The trail was through steep canyons and the morning light made the mountains looks like layers of jagged peaks, one laying on top of the other. Almost like a watercolor.

We passed another water cache left by PCT hikers of previous years. It was half full but we took no water because we had more than enough to hike make the next source. We've learned not to rely on the water caches and to be self-sufficient. It is safer and better style.

We walked to Hwy 74 with the anticipation of finding out if we could walk the 28 miles to Idyllwild on the PCT or if we would be required to walk a detour. Our hopes were high....but....the trail was still closed and we were faced with a 17-mile road walk, a hitchhike to skip the section, or to hike a 25-mile detour over mountain bike and jeep trails. We chose the Jose Burger for now.

Jordan from Madison, Wis., was there waiting for Emily's Dad. We ordered the burger and it was all that. Jalapenos, green chilies, swiss, bacon, lettuce, onion, pickles and more...it was great.

Before eating our meal a baby rattlesnake wandered up to the entrance of the patio where were seated. The manager came out and killed it. I was pretty pissed off but my opinion didn't hold much water with those guys. The adolescent snakes are more dangerous than the adults because they cannot control the amount of venom they release. The adults only release a small amount to save some for later. It takes time to make more venom. The kids give you the full dosage. The small snakes are much harder to see and they don't rattle yet.


We decided to do the jeep and mountain bike trail detour even though it was unmarked and had no water info. We had good topographic maps though and had confidence in our navigation skills.

We started the detour right from the cafe and followed the Thomas Mountain Rd to hwy 74 to Herkey Canyon to Southridge trail to Idyllwild.

We are camped at 5000 ft, just west of Thomas Mountain Peak with Jordan nearby.

While setting up the tent we broke the rear pole. I fixed it with duct tape but I do not think it will hold for long. This is potentially a bad situation. On Monday we will call Henry Shire and see how soon he can mail us a replacement. I'm hoping Big Bear City, as it's only 90 miles away. Hopefully it holds up that long.

Tomorrow we try to make Idyllwild.
The detour has turned out to be very scenic and we feel good hiking a trail when most are hitching or road walking.

Walk good...

Kirsten: Adrian pretty much described the day. So ... peace out.
I will write briefly about Emily's dad. That's his trail name. His other name is Paul. I don't know his complete story except that he is hiking the PCT trail as a tribute to his daughter Emily, who died in Yosemite. I don't know the circumstances of her death. I've heard she was hiking, but this could be a rumor.

I've thought about Emily's dad a lot since I first heard about him a few days ago. And then all of a sudden I met him on the trail. I knew the reason behind his name. But it was still a little shocking when he uttered his name to me. It now made it real and not just some hiker rumor.

I've wondered, What would I do if something happened to my child? Or to Adrian? Would I have the strength to do any of this? To hike every day for miles and miles all the while thinking of my greatest loss? What would you do?

It's seems like a wonderful way to tribute your child's life. It also seems torturous. Of all the people I've met so far, I hope he finishes. And I hope he finds some peace through all of this.

May 8, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Nance Creeklet
Miles: 11

Adrian: I slept about an hour last night. This morning there is sand everywhere. I had to get out of the tent and into the storm three times; once for the restroom and two to replace stakes that pulled out because of the wind. I am happy that the tent wasn't damaged.

We started at a late 8:30 a.m. and made good time despite the increasing heat. If you don't start hiking by 6 a.m. in the desert this time of year, you'll have a hard time getting in 20 miles.

We took a half-day today because it was real hot, we were tired from last night and because we found a great campsite. It was nice to have some time to cook, write and just enjoy an afternoon and evening on the PCT.

Tomorrow we hike by 6 a.m. and are aiming for a Jose' Burger at the Paradise Cafe. It should be yummy.
Walk good...

Kirsten: I woke up this morning with fine grit on my face, in my hair - even in my teeth because apparently I smile when I sleep. It was a long night.
The lack of sleep affected my hiking ability. And it was hot. Damn hot.
Damn hot, I said.

Luckily, Adrian is a patient man and we took a short day.
Finally, a quick word (I'll write more on this later) about the women on this trail. I have met two women so far who are hiking the PCT on their own. I think this is gutsy and totally cool. I can't wait to meet more.

May 7, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Combs Peak
Miles: 17.6

Adrian: The day started well when Kirsten managed to find us a ride to the trailhead from the manager of the resort. Really nice staff at the Warner Springs Ranch.

The trail started in a sandy wash with the barely flowing Aqua Caliente Creek. We would filter water from the stream further up canyon. Jeep trails crossed the PCT many times but the route was well signposted keeping us from getting lost. We followed the creek for 4 miles and then switchbacked up a ridge towards the Lost Valley spring 9 miles from the start of the hike.

Lost Valley spring was down a spur trail off the PCT about a quarter of a mile. It came out as a trickle between two large boulders. A concrete cistern, a catch basin so to speak, held about 300 gallons of cold desert spring water. Large trees that provided cool shade grew near the cistern. It was a great place.

We carried on another 8 miles through somewhat mundane arid desertscape with vibrant wildflowers. Then we came upon the final climb of the day as well as the last water source.

Turning right on Chihuahua Valley Road we walked a 2\10ths of a mile to Mike's - a trail angel - house. Mike hosts, cooks for, and helps hikers that wander into his property on the trail. Some just stop for water like we did, others stay overnight. Sadly, Mike was not around so we took some water, carrots, and tostadas and left a small donation. The water is worth gold because the nearest source is 13 miles in either direction!

We hiked the remaining 2 miles and 1,000 vertical feet to a burned out, windy pass on Combs Peak. The wind blew hard all night and with it came very fine sand pouring under the tarp and into every crevasse of the shelter and its occupants. With the wind and sand, it was shades of San Felipe Sand Storm of 2007 for those of you in the know.

We didn't sleep well that night.

Kirsten: I only seem to think about snakes, my feet and water - not necessarily in that order. I don't know where this fear of rattlesnakes came from. I grew up in southern Arizona - the Disneyland for rattlers. And yet here I am hiking up the Agua Caliente Creek and with every rustle of the bushes I'm jumping or hollering. My paranoia grows with every shriek.
It doesn't help that I keep seeing snakes. Gardner, gopher, king and rattlesnakes - I've seen them all. And today is no different.

Later, as the temperature rose into the 80s, I pushed the snakes into the background and started thinking about my feet and water. My feet seem to holding up despite my shoes. I may need to buy new ones before this blister war ends.

The problem with water was solved today through the kindness of a trail angel. Mike H. lives near the trail and opens up his home to hikers. At first I was apprehensive about this guy. I mean, why help hikers? My cynical mind was spinning. And then while at his house I read the hiker log. Every hiker had glowing things to say about Mike. He cooked for hikers, allowed them to stay at his house etc. Maybe there is hope for the human race after all.

May 6, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Warner Springs Resort
Miles: 0

Adrian: Our first full zero of the trip! We will probably take a zero day every week or two, especially in the beginning of the hike. We do have to keep an eye on our schedule in order to reach the Sierra by the middle of June. So while they are fun, like any indulgence, they must be taken in moderation.

Warner Springs Ranch is an old stopover for the Butterfield mail route and also served Kit Carson back in his day. Not so long ago presidents and Hollywood stars visited. Nowadays it's a family resort and used by almost every PCT hiker as a place to rest and recover.


Tomorrow we hike out early in the morning for Combs Peak at 6,193 feet, which is a big climb considering we are at 3,150 right now. The hiker grapevine tells us the fire has been contained and the PCT reopened. We'll see...

Kirsten: Thanks for the history lesson Adrian. But you failed mention the most important item of the day - breakfast. Mine was The Birdie, a perfect pancake, scrambled eggs and one sausage. Oh, and coffee. And a juice. Take that, Kit Carson.

This resort is pretty awesome and the staff here is so accommodating to us dirtbag hikers that it's almost a little scary.


On a more sentimental note, Adrian has been like a rock for me. And not just the fun me. This includes the paranoia-of-rattlers-and-I-need-a-shower-damn-these-blisters-hurt me. Thanks, I needed that.

May 5, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: Warner Springs Resort
Miles: 6

Adrian: We woke at 7 a.m. inside a very wet tent due to condensation. We have a single-walled tarp style tent designed to be lightweight and waterproof. While single wall tents are much lighter than their cousins that employ a tent and fly arrangement, they suffer from condensation caused by the occupants breathing. There are ways to avoid this phenomenon that include proper ventilation, campsite choice and others. No big deal, just a minor inconvenience.

We started hiking through oak savanna with waist high grass and huge shade oaks. The trail traversed golden meadows dotted with granitic formations. One such formation is called Eagle Rock. From the right angle it looks just like a huge eagle complete with wings, body, neck and head. We took some pictures and will post them soon. We took the chance to dry out our tent and sleeping bags in the sun while hanging out at the rock.


The trail lead easily along to Hwy 79 which lead to the Warner Springs Resort where we are taking a zero-mile day and re-supplying with a package we sent ourselves from Tucson. We reached the second crossing of Hwy 79 and started hiking the 1.4 miles into town while trying to hitchhike where cars zoomed by. About 10 minutes into the road walk a nice couple stopped and gave us a ride to the resort.

As we stepped out of the van we saw Ninja who greeted us with a smile and gave us the quick intro into how things work here. We booked our room, did laundry (we needed it!), swam in the sulfur hot springs, ate lunch, picked up our box from the post office, rested and went to dinner. We got to dinner at 8:01 p.m. and it closed at 8 p.m. They let us take out a meal to the bar next door which was perfectly fine with us. Joe, Kevin, Jesse, Boots, and Ninja all joined us after they ate. Rumor has it two German girls are hiking the trail and are here at the resort. Maybe I'll have a chance to practice some German!
Walk good...

Kirsten: Did I just hike more than 100 miles? You're damn right, I did. Not that this is some huge feat of strength, intelligence or humanitarianism. But hey, I'll celebrate what I can. And since I'm not working on a cure for cancer - cuz I'm not a brilliant doctor - I will instead wallow in my tiny personal milestone.

I'm pretty sure I have never walked 100 miles in one stretch before. I think it's something I'd remember. When trekking in Chile we came close.
But this somehow seems like a bigger accomplishment. Maybe it's because I smell worse than I did on the Chile trek.

Speaking of stinkiness, I took a shower today. And I ate cheeseburger and fries the size of my forearm. My body was ready for the shower. After six days of rice, pasta and peanut butter is was not ready for the burger. I had to retreat to our casita and take a nap after our meal.
In another day I think I'll be ready to hit the trail.

May 4, 2008 Pacific Crest Trail

Destination: San Ysidro Creek
Miles: 21

Adrian: The creek we are camped next to flows with clear water but we see signs of cows and horses telling us that this water has been contaminated. We expected such and took water from Barrel Springs. The camp is nice with large oak trees, green grass and a river runs through it. The terrain is small rolling wooded hills. Mostly short scrub trees except in the wash next to the creek where there are large oak and sycamore trees.


Today we woke up at 4:40 a.m., but got out of the tent at 5:10. It was a beautiful sunrise and miles floated by. We reached a water cache that we assumed would be empty but it was full. We stopped to sign a register and talk with Kevin and Joe. Ninja came by and Jesse we passed earlier.

People are talking about the Apache Fire up in Idyllwild. We hear the PCT is closed, as is Devil's Slide trail. The PCTA has put out a re-route already and while we are concerned, there is little we can do but hike. We hope there is an update about the situation in Warner Springs.

Kirsten and I feel good. The usual aches and pains, but they are manageable.

Tomorrow we reach Warner Springs! There we will pick up a package we sent ourselves with food and supplies and where we will take two nights off the trail and relax in the hot springs. It's a 4-mile hike and 1.5-mile hitchhike.

Today we hiked our first 100 miles and tomorrow we take a little r&r ... and we could use some.

Kirsten: Once again Adrian failed to mention the grotesquely large rattlesnake that blocked our path before reaching Barrel Springs. We snapped a photo or two and after I tapped my trekking poles into the dirt - a safe distance away - the snake moved up the hill. What I have come to realize is how silently they move. Which means one of these suckers could be right next to me at this moment and I wouldn't know. Until it was too late. I think I'm obsessing.
OK, moving on.

During our break at Barrel Springs, we met Boots, a character in his own right out of Colorado. As you've probably already guessed, he got his name because of the large boots he wears. I expect we'll run into Boots along trail as we move north and look forward to his entertaining tales of high adventure.

On a parting note, I'd like to stress how badly I need a shower. I try to clean up during our extended breaks and at night before we go to bed. This is not adequate. I fear it will only get worse. What could be worse than not showering for six days? The day I no longer care that I'm stinking up the place. That will be the day when my hobo transformation will be complete.